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Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive 
in 2011 witii funding from 
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littp://www.arcliive.org/details/foresttreeculturOOfull 



THE 



FOREST TREE CULTURIST: ' ^ 



xtnix^z 



ON THE CULTIVATION OF 



AMERICAN FOREST TREES, 



■WITH NOTES ON 



THE MOST VALUABLE FOREIGN SPECIES. ..-£1 



BY 

ANDREW S. FULLER, 
^horticulturist, 

ATJTHOK 01" "the GKAPE CTILTUEIST," " STEAWBEKRT CHLTUEIST," ETC., ETC. 



NEW YORK: 
GEO. E. & F. W. WOODWARD, Fo. 37 PAEK EOW, 

Office of "The Hoeticultubist." 
1866. 



Enteked, according to Act of Congeess, in the Teae 1866, Br 

ANDKEW S. FULLEE, 

IK THE Clerk's Office of the District Court foe the Southern Disteict 
OF New York. 



Davibs & Kent. 

Electrotypers and Stereotypers, 

183 William St., N. Y. 



^^^-b^ 



PEEFACE. 



Some years since, while gratifying my taste for Horticultural 
experiments, I was led to plant seeds of many of our native forest 
trees. The results satisfied me that nothing was wanting but a 
better acquaintance with the nature and habits of these seeds to 
insure success with them as uniformly as with any others ; conse- 
quently I gave the subject attention, and by observation and ex- 
periment learned how to manage not only the trees of our own 
forests, but many foreign varieties. I would not be understood 
to say that I have planted seeds and raised trees of every species 
and variety, but have experimented sufficiently with the different 
species as to know whereof I write. My success was such that the 
Farmers' Club of the American Institute desired me to give at one 
of their meetings an account of my experiments, which I did briefly. 
This was published as a portion of the Eeport of the meeting in the 
New York Tribune, and from that copied by other papers throughout 
the country. In consequence thereof, I have received many let- 
ters asking more definite information on different points, so many 
that I have been unable to reply to them so fully as I could have 
wished. 

The following pages were written for the purpose of giving such 
information as the public seem to desire. I have avoided, so far as 
I could, the use of botanical and scientific terms, having written, 
not for professional horticulturists and men of science, but for prac- 



IV PBEFACE. 

tical farmers. I have therefore endeavored to give the how rather 
than the ivJij/, the practical rather than the theoretical. The man 
of letters will also undoubtedly find much to criticise in the literary 
character of the book; this fault I regret more than others can ; 
but if I have so expressed myself that the reader can get my meaU' 
ing, I shall be content. The book was written for the purpose 
of showing others how to benefit themselves, and while doing it to 
conduce to the wealth of the country. If it shall aid in awaking a 
more general interest in our noble forest trees, causing them to be 
more fully appreciated, not only for their intrinsic worth, but 
because they are of the many blessings bestowed by the Creator upon 
this our country, then m)' object will be fully accomplished. 

WooDsiDE, March ZOth, 1866. 



THE 



FOREST TEEE CULTURIST. 



CHAPTER I. 

INTEODUCTION. 

EvEEY civilized nation feels more or less the need of an 
abundant supply of forest trees. Whether needed for 
timber to be used in the erection of houses, or in building 
ships, or for the more common but none the less important 
purpose of fuel, there is nothing that contributes more 
to the development of all the sources of national wealth 
and prosperity. America has felt this need the least ; but 
the day is coming, if not already here, when her people 
will look back with regret to the time when forests were 
wantonly destroyed. 

It is true there have been many cases where it was neces- 
sary to clear off the forest that the land might be culti- 
vated and furnish the food necessary for the early settler; 
but it is well known that thousands of acres of valuable 
timber have been removed from land unfit for cultivation, 
the return from which Avould scarcely support the laborers 
who were employed in cutting and drawing it to the near- 
est market, or converting it into charcoal and ashes. 

The land from which these forests were taken is now a 
silent waste, when, if the trees had remained upon it to 



6 THE FOREST TKEE CULTTTRIST. 

this time, its increased value would have paid the interest 
on its original cost and taxes, and left a large surplus to 
the owner. Kegrets over past follies will avail nothing 
unless they teach us to be wiser in the future. 

In all of our large cities anxious inquiries are made for 
that indispensable article, timber. If we would extend 
commerce, ships and docks are needed, and for these more 
or less timber is required. The builders, the houseless and 
homeless, rich and poor, know and feel the need of it. 
Trees suitable for piles now command twenty to thirty 
dollars each. One of my neighbors not long since sold 
one hundred for three thousand dollars ; ten years since 
half that amount would have been considered an exorbitant 
price. Firewood on the lines of our great railroads, miles 
away from our cities, sells for seven and eight dollars per 
cord; and if the demand continues to increase, soon it can 
not be had for double that amount. The demand increases, 
although coal and iron are persistent competitors ; but the 
supply of wood decreases more rapidly. There is no rea- 
son why the supply should give out ; there is land enough 
within reach of our great cities that lies uncultivated, or, 
what is more lamentable, unprofitably cultivated, that 
might be made to grow forests of good timber that 
would return to their owners a large profit on the invest- 
ment. 

I know many large land-owners Avho have been toiling 
for the past thirty years to lay up something to keep them 
in their old age a-nd leave a balance to their children. 
They have worn themselves out as Avell as their land, and 
that something for which they have so aixluously labored 



INTEODFCTION. 7 

has not been obtained, and their children are likely to in- 
herit a poor, worn-out farm instead of that competency 
which their father expected to have left them. Suppose 
these men had left one half their farms covered with the 
original forest, or if it was already cleared when they came 
into possession they had planted one half with forest trees, 
and then expended all their labor upon the other half, they 
would have produced better crops and with more profit ; 
one half of their farm would have been rich, and the other 
half covered with a forest that would be a fortune worth 
inheriting. 

Thousands of men are toiling this day to lay up wealth 
for their children, when if they would invest a small 
amount in land and then plant a few acres of our best 
forest trees, their money would grow into a fortune by the 
time their children had grown into manhood. To some 
this may appear visionary ; but the writer has lived long 
enough to see trees grow from saplings that would hardly 
bear his weight at ten yeai-s old, up to great ti-ees two feet 
in diameter, and he has scarcely passed the half-way house 
of three-score and ten. 

In many portions of our country we need forests, not 
only for supplying us with timber, but for protection 
against winds and hurricanes. The farmer's grain is often 
prostrated by winds that never reached his fields until 
these protecting forests were destroyed. Fruit-growers 
are seeking the best means of shelter for their oi'chards, and 
a remedy for that dry atmosphere -which sweeps through 
their gardens, shriveling ujd their finest specimens, checking, 
if not entirely annihilating, their ardor for fruit-growing. 



O THE FOKEST TEEE CULTUKIST, 

The little stream that formerly came singing and dancing 
down from the great wood on the hill is now seen only for 
a few weeks in the early spring and fall, and then there is 
nothing left but its dry pebbly track. Is it not time we 
began to retrace our steps and again cover some of our now 
barren hillsides and many of our valleys with those trees 
which were not only an ornament and blessing to our land, 
but would now be a source of incalculable wealth? 

The great West, with its wide-reaching treeless prairies, 
feels the need of forests even more than we do in the At- 
lantic States. The firmer on the prairies needs a shelter 
from the winds, the value of which no one but those who 
have experienced the want can appreciate. In no way can 
such a protection be provided better or cheaper than by a 
belt of trees. Then the convenience of having timber near 
at hand for building fences, stakes for vines, trees, and a 
thousand little necessities for which wood is indispensable. 

A farmer who has provided a belt of trees around his 
farm has protected his fields from winds, and his grain will 
remain standing until ready to harvest. His fruit remains 
on the trees until ripe ; and in a great measure his build- 
ings are safe against those fearful hurricanes which fre- 
quently rush with such destructive force across those level 
plains. If people will persist in residing on those prairies, 
they certainly ought to be protected, but they should learn 
how to do it themselves, and not expect that Nature will 
rear it merely for the asking, without putting forth an 
effort on their part. 

I have a vivid recollection of spending several years near 
those grand old prairies where the wind went and came 



INTRODUCTION. \f 

■Without hindrance. One afternoon on commg home I found 
my house unroofed, and the place where a greenhouse 
stood in the morning swept clean, not a flower-pot, brick, 
or piece of glass left to show that I ever possessed a con- 
servatory of fine plants. I can call to mind several in- 
stances of like character,- each of which leads me to think 
that a strong protection is often re(q^uired to enable the 
settler in the West to keep his foothold after he has ob- 
tained one. 

The question is, Sow shall protection be the most read- 
ily provided ? — how shall we get the trees we need ? My 
only answer is, Groio them f This will require time and 
expense, most certainly — and what blessing does not? It 
takes time to get wealth, unless you are so fortunate, or un- 
fortunate, as the case may be, as to have it given you ; if 
so, it probably required time for the giver to obtain it.. 
The great and imjiortant truth which I wish could be im- 
pressed upon the mind of every land-owner in America is,, 
if you want improvements, begin, yes, begin them nov/ I 
Do not put it off because you have no time to attend to it 
at present, nor because it will take so many years, and a. 
little outlay at the start. You may say, " I can not wait 
so long." Who asks you to wait ? Time moves in spite- 
of you. Plant the seeds to-day, and while you are making- 
ujD your mind whether you will wait a few years for them 
or not, the trees will be growing. 

How often do we meet men with abundance of means- 
who will tell you they would like to have a few trees here- 
or there, a vineyard, or orchard, or a grove, and you pro- 
pose that they should immediately commence planting ; 

1* 



10 THE FOREST TREE CULTUKIST. 

the almost invariable answer will be, " I don't care for the 
expense, but I can't wait so long." I can count many- 
such men among my acquaintances who haA-e made the 
same excuse for the last ten or fifteen years, and they have 
not commenced that grove or vineyard yet, and done very 
little toward the orchard. 

There are men, however, with whom to think and to act 
are near relatives, and a letter which I lately received from 
one who is a past octogenarian calls to mind a circumstance 
which happened several years ago ; it also illustrates the 
fact, that there is never a period in life in which a man 
may not do some good to somebody by planting trees, and 
often he will gather the blessing himself, although he lit- 
tle expects it. When I was in my fourteenth year, a gray- 
haired uncle of sixty, who had just pvirchased a new farm, 
requested me to pull up some of the y^oung trees which 
were growing in masses in my father's garden, and put 
them on a load of goods which were going to his place. 
With the assistance of my father I did so, tying the bundle 
to the body of the wagon, as there was no room on the 
load. I well remember the remark of my father at the 
time : " Uncle John, you are rather old to think of growing 
an orchard." " Never mind," rej^lied my old uncle, " it is 
certainly not too late for me to try." That uncle still 
lives, and has been enjoying the fruit of those trees for 
many years. It is well that we can not all be sure of liv- 
ing to such a venerable age, for in that case I fear we 
would never begin, as " Time enough" would become the 
motto, instead of, as now, " No time." 

The period has now arrived Avhen this subject of growing 



INTEODUCTION". 11 

forest trees requires not only agitation but action. Our 
numerous agricultural societies should lend their aid by- 
giving premiums for the best endeavors of individuals. 
Let there be lectures upon the subject, not by the city or 
village minister, lawyei', or editor, unless they know some- 
thing about it practically, but by some of the plain men 
of the country who have no other title than Professor of 
Farming. These lectures should be delivered in a practi- 
cal manner ; not from some velvet-cushioned rostrum, but 
from an old log or stump of a tree in some forest or grove. 
In such a place the speaker can address his audience in an 
atmosphere filled with his subject, with examples above 
and around him. Here he can cut, heWj and prune to 
illustrate his theme without throwing the janitor of the 
building into liysterics through fear that a whittling might 
fall on the carpet. 

In Europe they have arboricultural societies which have 
not only done much toward disseminating a correct knowl- 
edge of forest trees, but through whose influence thousands 
of acres of trees have been reared. There is no reason 
why such societies should not exist in this country ; their 
usefulness, if rightly conducted, must be apparent to every 
casual observer. 

There is no country on the globe that possesses such a 
numerous variety of valuable forest trees as America. 
Every article of usefulness of which w^ood is a i^art shows 
it ; and if there is one branch of mechanics in which we 
excel more than in another, it is in our agricultural imple- 
ments ; and who does not know that one of their great 
points of excellence is the wood used in their constniction ? 



12 THE FOEEST TREE CULTUEIST. 

The farmer is certainly more interested in these implements 
than any one else, and it devolves upon him to see to it 
that the requisite quantity and quality are supplied. 

To one who has traveled through some of the great for- 
ests of the North and Northwest, it may seem unnecessary 
for Americans to ever attempt the cultivation of forest 
trees. But when we ask ourselves how these great forests 
can be transported to those regions where they are needed, 
the question assumes another phase, and we soon leai-n 
that transporting timber, es^^ecially by land, is a very 
laborious and expensive business. Even Avhere railroads 
have penetrated regions abi^ndantly supplied, we soon 
find that all along its track timber soon becomes scarce. 
For every railroad in the country requires a continued 
forest from one end to the other of its line to supply it 
with ties, fuel, and lumber for building their cars. Cars 
are continually wearing out, the ties are rotting, and the 
time is not far distant when these great monopolies will 
find that it would have been cheaper for them to have 
grown their own timber than to have depended on others 
to suj)ply them. How simple it would be for the railroad 
companies to have a few acres of forest trees every few 
miles all along and contiguous to the line ! Yet the farm- 
ers along these roads remember that timber will always 
be needed ; and it is not always economy to cultivate 
with grain every piece of land from which you have taken 
the trees. Better let the sprouts groAV, and the young 
seedlings which always show themselves soon after the 
large trees are cut away. A little thinning out of the 
least valuable kinds, and an occasional pruning of those 



INTEODUCTION. 13 

left, will often prove to be a better plan and a much more 
profitable one than to clear off and plow up the soil. 

If a particular kind of timber is wanted, then those 
trees should be left in preference to others. How few 
there are who have ever made a calculation of the value 
of an acre of White Oak, Hickory, Chestnut, or White Ash ! 
As we find these in our native forests, they are mixed 
with other trees, often with those that are comparatively 
Avorthless. But suppose we have an acre purely of one 
kind, and that of the most valuable. What kind is most 
valuable must be ascertained by the grower himself, for it 
wall dejDend upon his location, and which is in the greatest 
demand in his nearest market. Suppose we take Hickory, 
Avhich is always in demand, when young, for hoop-poles, as 
it becomes larger for other j^ni'poses. There are other 
kinds equally as valuable and of more rapid growth. 
Now the young one or two year old plants, or even the 
nuts, may be put in rows four feet apart, and the plants 
one foot apart in the row; this will give 10,890 to the 
acre. At this distance they can be allowed to remain 
until they are six to eight feet high and one or two inches 
in diameter. They should reach this size in five to eight 
years, according to the soil and the care they receive. 
Then they should be thinned, by taking out every alter- 
nate tree ; this should be done by cutting them off near 
the ground. We therefore take out 6,445 trees suitable 
for hoop-poles. Their value will of course depend upon the 
market, but we will say four cents each, or $40 per 1,000, 
which w^ould be a low price in New York ; this would give 
$217 80 (two hundred and seventeen dollars and eighty 



14 THE FOREST TREE CULTUEIST. 

cents) as the return for the acre's first crop. In three or 
four years they will need thinning again, and we take out, 
as before, one half, or 2,722 ; these will, of course, be 
much larger ; and if they will reach ten feet, and are of 
good thickness, they will readily bring ten cents each, or 
$272 20 for the second crop. In a few years more they 
will require thinning again, and each time the trees, being 
larger, will bring an increased price. But we are not by 
this means exhausting our stock — far from it, for those we 
cut otf at first have been producing sprouts which have 
grown much more rapidly than the originals ; and if a 
little care has been given them so that they shall not grow 
so thickly as to be injured thereby, we can begin to cut 
small hoop-poles from the sprouts of the first cutting be- 
fore we have cut our third or fourth thinnings of the 
first crop ; consequently we have a pcrjDetual crop, 
which requires no cultivation after the first few years. 
As soon as the leaves become numerous enough to shade 
the ground, no weeds will grow among them, and the 
annual crop of leaves that fall will keep the soil rich 
and moist. The time to cut trees which it is desirous to 
have produce sprouts, is in winter or veiy early spring ; 
if cut in summer, it is likely to kill the roots. 

The same plan may be followed Avith many other varie- 
ties of trees that are valuable when young. Whether it 
will pay to grow such trees or not will depend entirely 
upon the location, market, etc., but there are few sections 
of our country in which such plantations would not be a 
very profitable investment. 

Plantations of trees may be made in the form of belts 



INTRODUCTION. 15 

of a few feet or rods in width around the farm ; and while 
they afford shelter and protection they will also become 
a source of revenue and profit. It is always best to plant 
the young trees near together at first, and then thin out 
as they grow. These annual thinnings, even where the 
object is to allow the main crop to grow to a large size, 
will more than pay for all the care and cost of the whole. 



16 THE FOEIST TREE CTJLTUHIST. 



CHAPTER II. 

PROPAGATION. 

There is no occasion for a very scientific or elaborate 
description of the different methods employed in propaga- 
tion of forest ti'ees being given in a simple treatise like 
this. Tliat they may be propagated in various ways is 
true, but the man who desires to grow only the native or 
more common exotic forest trees has no occasion to study 
the mysteries of horticultural science. I am well aware 
that it has been generally supposed among the farmers 
that it was only nurserymen that were able to grow such 
trees successfully ; but this is an error ; or, at least, if 
they do succeed better than others, it is only because they 
have given more attention to the subject ; as it does not 
require any more skill to grow an acre of our common 
forest trees than it does to grow an acre of cabbage or 
corn. They require no better prejjaration of soil or any 
better after-culture than a majority of our ordinary farm 
crops. 

The cost of producing seedling trees is also much less 
than those unacquainted with the subject would suj)pose. 
Having grown many thousands, I think that a fair esti- 
mate of cost at one year old, taking one variety with an- 
other, will not exceed two dollars per thousand. This 
estimate includes the cost of seed, preparing soil, hoeing, 
weeding, etc., for one season. The cost will certainly de- 



peopagatiojst. it 

pend somewhat upon the price paid for seed, for there are 
some kinds of the more rare native trees, such as the Mag- 
nolia, Cladrastis, etc., the seeds of which would cost nearly 
the amount named. My estimate refers mainly to the dif- 
ferent varieties of Maple, Ash, Oak, Tulip, Spruce, and sim- 
ilar kinds, the seeds of which are always to be had very 
cheap. The larger nut-bearing trees, such as Chestnut,* 
Walnut, Hiokory, Butternut, etc., would cost a trifle more, 
as they are always in demand for other purposes than for 
growing trees. Besides being more bulky, the cost of 
transportation is proportionably greater. Where the seeds 
can be had near at hand, the cost per thousand ought not 
to be more than the sum named. I do not wish to esti- 
mate the cost too low, but having grown and sold many 
thousands of such trees, I feel qualified to name a price, 
because it is derived from actual experience. Xo one 
must expect to liuy trees at two dollars per thousand, be- 
cause those who grow them for sale expect, and have a 
right to demand, a profit. Every one who wants forest 
trees in large quantities should learn how to grow them 
upon their own land, then they will have them near at 
hand when wanted, and can transplant them at their 
leisure. All of our most valuable forest ti'ees are readily 
grown from seed, thei'e being only a few kinds — and most 
of these are of an inferior quality — Avhich are more easily 
grown from cuttings. 

I will give my own method of growing the different 
varieties, although it may or may not accord with the 
practice of others ; the results, however, have always 
been satisfactory. 



18 



THE FOREST TREE CULTUEIST. 



SEED-BED. 

For nearly all of the hardy deciduous trees {i. e., those 
that lose their leaves in the autumn), an open field is a 
good situation for a seed-bed. The soil should be deep, 
mellow, and rich ; if not so, make it so by frequent plow- 
ing and thoroughly pulverizing with the harrow. If not 
rich, apply a good liberal dressing of any old well-decom- 
posed manure. Good barn-yard is good enough if old ; 
muck, rotted sods, or leaf mold from the woods will answer 
every purpose. If none of these are at hand, then bone-dust 
or ashes may be used ; a ton to the acre will not be too 
much of the latter, or from fifty to one hundred two-horse 
loads of the muck and leaf mold, and half that quantity 
of manure. Double this amount would be still better, 
unless your soil is good at the start. Mix these applica- 
tions thoroughly with tlic soil, and harrow all down smooth 
and level, and your seed-bed is ready. Now draw a line 




Fig. 1. 



across one side of the plot, and with a hoe make a shallow 
trench from a half to one inch deep, according to the size 
of the seeds to be sown. (Fig. 1 shows a wide seed drill 



rEOPAGATION". 19 

or trencli when ready for the seeds.) Make the trench 
about one foot wide ; scatter the seeds over the bottom, 
but not too thickly, say one to two inches apart, and then 
draAV the soil back and cover the seeds as evenly as possi- 
ble. These seed-beds or wide drills should be four feet 
apart if a cultivator is to be used among them ; if not, and 
only the hoe or spading-fork is to be emi^loyed in culti- 
vation, then two feet will be sufficient. All that will now 
be required is to keep the soil loose between the rows, and 
keep them clear of weeds, keeping in mind that, like other 
crops, better the care, the better results. The smaller the 
seeds the less they should be covered, although some small 
seeds will bear covering much deeper than some large 
ones. Maple, Elm, Oak, Beech, Tuli]), etc., not more than 
a half inch, while Hickory, Chestnut, and Black Walnut 
about one inch. I sometimes sow the coarser seeds in 
single drills, having only one row instead of the wide bed ; 
in this case the corner of the hoe is only used to make the 
trench. 

Where there is no scarcity of land, the single drill is in 
some respects preferable, as it is less trouble in weeding, 
and the plants will iisually grow larger than when sown 
more thickly. Still, the wide drill has its advantages, for 
more plants can be grown on an acre ; besides, the plants 
shade one another, and thereby are not quite so liable to 
be burned by the sun, as in single drills. There are, how- 
ever, but few kinds that are liable to be damaged by 
burning, even in our hottest weather, and these should be 
grown in a half shady position. Some varieties are bene- 
fited by being partially shaded when they first appeal' 



20 THE F0EE8T TREE CULTUKI8T. 

above ground, also by being protected from the cold tlie 
first winter, consequently it is best to sow the seeds of 
these in small beds, say four feet wide and as long as 
required. Around these beds set up boards a foot or more 
in width, fastening them with stakes or by nailing them 
together at the corners, and by placing cross-bars every 
four feet along their length. The soil in these beds should 
be made fine and rich, and raked level before the seeds are 
sown. Sow in drills six inches apart, or broad-cast, and 
rake in. After sowing, put on the screen, which may be 
of coarse matting, or evergreen boughs, or, what is better, 
one made with laths. These lath screens should be long 
enough to lie cross-wise of the frames, and about three or 




Fig. 2. 

four feet wide. (Fig. 2 shows an inclosed seed-bed cover- 
-ed with a lath screen.) If the seed-bed is not over four feet 
wide, one length of common lath will cover it cross- Avise ; 
then by nailing a narrow strip of board across the ends 
of the lath, your frame screen will be complete. The laths 
■should be placed one to two inches apart; this will allow 
■plenty of light to reach the soil, but not enough to injure 
the plants; it will also allow the rain to find access to the 
beds. These lath screens are the most convenient, cost but 



PROPAGATION". 21 

little, and will last a long time if placed under cover when 
not in use. The sun reaches every part of the bed through, 
the screens in the course of the day, but does not remain 
long enough on any particular spot to cause injury. A 
board fence or hedge running east and west will often: 
ansAver very well for a screen for the more delicate vaiie- 
ties which require it ; on the north side of these make the- 
bed, and only so wide as will be shaded in the middle- 
of the day. 

Most of the evergreens require a little protection from 
the sun when they first come uj). There are also some of 
our deciduous trees which are rather tender and often burn, 
off Avhen they first appear above ground. The Mountain, 
Ash, Larch, Taxodium, and some others, often fail entirely 
for the want of a little protection at this time. No gen- 
eral rule Avill apply to all, nor can there be any specific 
rule Avhich will apply to each and every section of the 
country ; as soil and climate vary, so must pi'actice. It is 
better to be careful than careless, therefore it is better to 
use a preventive than risk a failure. When I come to 
speak of the different varieties, I shall indicate kinds, 
which are better sown in shady situations than in open 
ground. It may not always be necessary, but is certainly 
the safest. Seeds sown in these beds Avith screens should 
not be covered too deep, and the best way to do it is Avitht 
a sieve, whether in drills or otherAvise. 

The best soil for covering is fine leaf mold, so Avell rot- 
ted that it will pass readily through a sieve Avith one eighth 
of an inch meshes. It Avill often be necessary to Avater 
these seed-beds, especially AA^hen the small and delicate 



22 THE FOREST TEEE CTJLTURIST. 

varieties are sown, as sucli must not be covered more than 
one fourth of an inch deep ; and unless the surface of the 
soil is kept moist, they will very likely fail to come up. A 
very light sprinkling every day in dry weather is what 
they require, not a drenching to-day and no more for a 
week or two. Keep the soil moist, but not wet. 

When the plants first come up, and have formed but 
few leaves, is the time the most care must be used in 
watering, and no more should be applied than they actu- 
ally require to keep them from suffering for the want of it. 
Too much moisture at this time, especially if the weather 
is very warm, will cause them to damp off, or, in other 
words, rot off. Remove the screens in cloudy weather 
that the plants may get plenty of air, for our object just 
at this time is to harden the plants or make their stems 
firm and woody, not by drying them, but by a healthy 
growth. So soon as they are from two to six inches in 
height (according to the varieties), very little care is re- 
quired. If the weather should be very dry, give them 
water ; but the sprinklings may be dispensed with, and a 
good soaking be given instead, but only occasionally or 
when the plants really need it. For evergreens, the screens 
may be kept on the beds most of the summer, but remove 
toward fall so that the plants may be thoroughly ripened. 
At the approach of winter, or so soon as the ground begins 
to freeze, put on the screens or lay strips across the top of 
the frames, and on these place straw, hay, cornstalks, ever- 
o-reen boughs, or any such material that may be at hand. 
It is not expected that the frost will be entirely excluded, 
nor would it be advisable to do so, for there w^ould be 



PEOPAGATIOJT. 23 

danger of smothering the plants. The covering is merely 
to prevent the frequent freezing and thawing of the ground 
and heaving out the plants. 

TIME FOR SOWING SEEDS. 

There can be no specified time given for sowing all 
kinds of tree seeds, but for a general rule, very soon after 
they ripen is the best. It is certainly not always conveni- 
ent to do so, nor is it always necessary, but with some 
kinds a delay of a few weeks is almost certain to result in 
a complete failure. Some kinds of seeds retain their vital- 
ity for years, while others for only a few months at most. 

The want of specific knowledge ujDon this point has 
been the cause of many failures, and will probably con- 
tinue to be so until more general information is dissemi- 
nated. To more fully illustrate this point, I will suppose 
a case. Mr. B., a farmer at the West, wishes to grow a 
quantity of the diflerent kinds of maples, and he writes to 
some Eastern seedsman ordering two bushels of each of 
the following kinds: Sugar Maple, Norway Maple, Red 
Maj)le, Silver Maple, sending his order in the fall, knowing 
that at that time most trees ripen their seeds. But for 
once he has made a mistake ; and if he has sent his order 
to an honest and intelligent seedsman, he will fill one half 
of Mr. B.'s order, and write him why he does not send him 
all the seeds ordered. But if he has sent his order to one 
who is not posted up in the matter, or who values money 
more than honesty, he will fill the order complete, and 
the result will be that the seeds of the first two kinds will 
grow, and the others not. 



24 THE FOREST TKEE CULTUEIST. 

The lied and Silver Maple ripen their seeds in spring or 
early summer, about the first to the middle of June in this 
vicinitjj and they retain their vitality for only a few weeks. 
If sowed so soon as ripe, they will come up in a few days, 
and make a growth of one to three feet by the time the 
Sugar and Norway Majile seeds are ripe in autumn. 

If Mr. B. had been aware of this fact, he would have 
sent his order for them early in spring, and have directed 
that they should be forwarded to him in bags, or, what is 
better, baskets, but not in close boxes, for when excluded 
from the aii', or closely packed together, they will heat, 
and soon be destroyed. These two varieties of maples are 
among the few forest tree seeds that absolutely demand 
immediate planting, and then they grow very readily. 



PEESEEVmG SEEDS. 25 



CHAPTER III 

PEESERYIKG SEEDS. 

As before remarked, some kinds of seeds retain their 
vitality for a long time, and others only for a short period. 
Those seeds that have a firm, horn-like covering, like the 
Locust, Virgilia, etc., generally retain their vitality the 
longest, while the seeds of the Maple, Elm, and similar trees 
that have a very poi'ous covering, are comparatively short- 
lived. The size of the seed is no indication of its vital- 
ity; the largest may peiish mnch sooner than the very 
smallest. 

The Black Walnut, Horse Chestnut, and Butternut will 
seldom if ever grow after the first season, while the Vii'gilia 
and Locust, which are quite small, will germinate after 
having been kept for a dozen years. The vitality of all seeds 
may be retained for a much longer time than was evident- 
ly intended by Nature, if they are placed under the proper 
conditions. A cool, dry, and equal temperature appears 
to be the best adapted for the preservation of all seeds. 
The humidity of the atmosphere has also much to do in 
enabling them to retain their vitality, for while a warm„ 
moist one is just suited to growth, it hastens the death of 
the seeds. For when the germinating powers of the seed 
have once been excited into growth, it can not be checked 
without injuring, if not wholly destroying, its vitality. A 



26 THE FOREST TBEE CULTUEIST. 

warm, dry atmosj^here evaporates the moisture, causing 
them to shrivel, and thus destroys them. 

Some seeds, as the Chestnut, contain such a large amount 
of albuminous matter that it is quite difficult to keep the 
temperature and humidity of the atmosphere just in the 
right state for their preservation. All such seeds should 
be placed in the ground, or on it, soon after they are ripe, 
and covered with leaves or some similar material, follow- 
ing Nature's method, as they receive there the projjer de- 
gree of Avarmth and moisture requisite to their preserva- 
tion, better than in any other situation. 

GATUEEING AND TRAlSrSPOETING SEEDS. 

Seeds should always be gathered in dry weather, and 
those kinds which are inclosed in an outer covering, like 
the Butternut, should be spread out in an airy situation 
until they are quite dry before being packed for transporta- 
tion. It is also advisable to dry all tree seeds a little, but 
it must be varied according to the size and natural amount 
of moisture they contain. Those that possess a large 
amount either in their covering or in the seed proper ai-e 
liable to heat if packed in close air-tight boxes. Baskets 
and bags, or boxes Avith small holes bored in them, should 
be used for the purpose, especially if the seeds are to re- 
main in them for several days. Sheets of paper, or layers 
of dry moss, may be placed between the layers of seeds to 
absorb the moisture, when necessary to pack the seeds be- 
fore they are sufficiently dry. These remarks only apply 
to the larger seeds and those that naturally contain con- 
siderable moisture at the time of gathering. 



PRESERVING SEEDS. 27 

The smaller seeds as well as larger ones tliat are inclosed' 
in a dry covering, such as the Alder, Spruce, and Pine among 
the smaller, and Beech and Hickory among the larger, may 
be transported in bags, barrels, or tight boxes ; all that is- 
necessary is to keep them dry while on transit. 

WHERE TO OBTAIN SEED. 

Where shall we get our seeds ? is a question that admits: 
of only a very general answer. It is apparent to all, that 
where the trees grow, there will the seeds be found most 
abundant. 

The sections of country where the diiferent trees most 
abound wall be pointed out in the following pages. If in 
those sections there are any persons who gather seeds for' 
sale, whose address you can obtain, they will be glad to- 
furnish you, otherwise you may have some acquaintance' 
there who will take the troiible to gather them for you ; or,, 
this failing, you could write to a postmaster in the vicinity- 
stating your desire, and asking him to aid you by giving you 
the address of some one who would be likely to furnish them, 
inclosing a prepaid envelope for the answer. Our country 
postmasters are generally accommodating men, and if you; 
do not ask them to write a long letter and pay the postage- 
themselves, on business which wholly benefits yourself,, 
you will find them i-eady to do a favor even to a stranger.. 
When you get the address of the person, write him stating 
in a few words what you desire ; and if he can not get the 
seeds for you, ask him if he can refer you to some one who 
can (always inclosing a postage stamp for reply). There 
are many ways in which a correspondence may be brought 



28 THE FOREST TEEE CULTUKIST, 

about between farmers, in different parts of the country, 
which Avould result in advantage to both parties. Seeds 
could be exchanged, and information upon various subjects 
given and received. If farmers would write and study- 
more and work less, they would get rich sooner, live 
longer, and be more happy. 

When the seeds Avanted can not be procured in this 
way, then write to some seedsman for them, always send- 
ing in your order early ; never wait until it is time to sow 
the seeds before ordering them. Few seedsmen save any 
more than they are likely to sell, not wishing to incur the 
expense of having a large quantity gathered to supply an 
uncertaui demand. 

And here let )ne say to those who are about ordering 
seeds : You will not only be more certain of getting what 
you want, but you will acconnnodate the seedsman by 
sending your order a month — yes, six months — before you 
require tliem. It is not necessary that you should send 
the full amount of cost with the order, but you should 
send a small sum, unless you are personally known to the 
one to whom you send your oi'der. If you wish to buy 
fifty or one hundred dollars' worth, send five or ten dollars 
along y.'ith the order, as this will show that you are in 
earnest and intend to buy what you have asked for, and 
your order will be put on the order-book. If you merely 
Avrite saying that at some future time you will want such 
articles, ten to one your letter goes into the waste-basket 
and no notice taken of it. Perhaps Mr. Seedsman has ten 
just such letters from different pai'ties the same day yours 
reached him, and he knows from past experience that prob- 



rKKSERVING SEKDS. -29 

ably not more than one out of the ten* will buy the seeds 
about which they have written to inquire. 

There has been for many years quite a demand for 
American forest tree seeds in Europe, and a few of our 
seedsmen have made a specialty of gathering them. There 
is an abundant supply, and our seedsmen possess the facil- 
ity and energy to meet the demand for any amount that 
may be required. But do send in your orders early. 



so THE FOEEST TEEE CDLTUEIST. 



CHAPTER IV. 

GEOAVIXG FEOM CUTTIKGS. 

There are a few kinds of trees that are more readily 
grown from cuttings than from seeds, among which are 
the different species of Willow, Poplar, ButtonAvood, etc. 
Sometimes seeds of other kinds can not be obtained as 
readily as cuttings ; and when they are of A^arieties which 
can be easily projjagated in this manner, then it will be 
desirable to do so.* When cuttings are to be grown in 
the open ground, it is best to cut them in the fall, so soon 
as they have cast their leaves, and heel them in, away 
from the frost, until spring. 

The safest place to keep cuttings during winter is in 
some dry place in the open ground, and either have them 
tied in small convenient bundles or laid in trenches, after 
w'hich cover so deep that they will not freeze. 

The length of the cutting will depend somewhat upon 
the kind, but from six to twelve inches is usually the most 
•convenient. If in bundles, they should be tied with tough 
willow, tarred twine, or some similar material, as ordinary 
iiemp or cotton twine may become rotten before the 

"'' The scientific horticulturist who has propagating-houses at com- 
anand, experiences no great difficulty in multiplying those varieties of 
•ivLich he can not ohtain seeds, or grow from ripe wood cuttings, hj 
Tising the green growing wood in summer ; but such a process belongs 
.to him alone, and not to the common farmer, for whom this work is 
lespecially written. 



GEOWING FROM CUTTINGS. 31 

cuttings are wanted for planting. In spring, so soon as 
the weather is suitable, take out the cuttings and plant 
them in trenches made with a jdIow or spade, placing them 
two or three inches apart in the row, and the rows from 
two to four feet apart, according to the manner in which 
they are to be cultivated. The cuttings should be placed 
nearly their whole length in the ground, and in an xi\> 
right position, leaving only an inch or two above the sur- 
face. Press the soil firmly around them, and give the same 
care as for seedlings, with a similar soil and situation. 

These remarks apply only to deciduous trees, and are 
general in their character. Specific directions as to 
whether the cuttings are to be made of young or old wood, 
will be noticed in another place. In making the cuttings, 
it is always best to cut just below a bud, and square across 
instead of sloping, although it will make but little dif- 
ference except with those kinds which have a large pith ; 
with such kinds there is danger of too much water enter- 
ing the lower part of the cutting and causing it to decay 
before it can take root. But if cut ofi* just at the base of 
a bud, this is prevented, as at this point there is usually 
a cross section of wood entirely closing the space occupied 
by the pith in other portions of the stem. 

Some kinds of evergreen trees may also be readily prop- 
agated by cuttings. This is only advisable when seeds 
can not be obtained, or vv'hen it is desirable to multiply 
some particular variety upon whose seeds, if they were to 
be obtained, there could be no certainty of getting plants 
like the parent. The Arborvitjes, Junipers, Yews, etc., 
are often successfully propagated without artificial heat. 



32 



THE FOKEST TREE CULTUEIST. 



The cuttings of these are taken off early in the fall and 
placed in frames similar to the one described for seeds. 

Cuttings are made of the ends of the branches, and 
mainly of the present season's growth, with perhaps a lit- 
tle of the two-year-old wood attached. They should be 
three or four inches in length, and the leaves of the lower 
half cut away ; cut off the lower end smooth and square 




Eig. 3. 

across the stem, being careful not to crush the wood. Fig. 
3 shows a cutting of Arborvitte prepared for planting. 
Place these in the soil about one half their length, and in 
rows six inches apart ; press the earth firmly about them ; 
give water sufficient to settle the soil ; they should be 



GROWING FEOM CIITTINGS. 33 

covered then, or so soon as the ground begms to freeze, and 
remain undisturbed until spring. If glazed frames can 
be put over them, and kept partially shaded until covered 
for winter, it will facilitate the production of roots. They 
should be kept shaded until well rooted ; for if the sun is 
allowed to come fully upon them, it will excite the leaves 
into growth; and if no roots have been previously formed, 
no permanent growth can take place, and the cuttings die. 
Our object is to obtain roots first, afterward growth of top. 

It is well known that roots will form at a much lower 
temperature than leaves ; and we take advantage of this 
fact by placing the cuttings in the frames, where they will 
remain so cool that there will be no growth of leaves, 
while the lower portion, which is underground, is in a posi- 
tion warm enough for the production of roots. 

Most of the evergreens emit roots very slowly from ripe 
wood cuttings. But if the frames are comparatively warm 
during winter (as they may be easily made by being well 
banked and covered), small roots will be produced by the 
time warm weather approaches in spring. The cuttings 
should remain in the frames during the first summer, and 
be treated as though they were seedlings, being protected 
in winter. Cuttings of the young growing wood in sum- 
mer can also be very readily grown in a hot-bed, but this 
requires more care than with ripe wood, and very few 
would succeed if they attempted it, except those who fully 
understand the management of hot-beds. 

As I propose to give only the most simple and easiest 
modes of multiplying our forest trees, I will omit further 
particulars upon propagating them by cuttings. 

2*. 



34 THE FOEEST TREE CULTUEIST. 



CHAPTER y. 

BUDDIXG, GRAFTING, ETC. 

Other methods of propagating than those ah-eady given 
Avill seldom be employed or are necessary for those who grow 
trees for shelter or timber. There will, however, sometimes 
cases occur when it would be quite advantageous even for 
the common farmer to propagate certain trees by other 
methods instead of cuttings and seeds. Trees will often 
vary considerably when grown from seeds. Maple seeds 
will certainly produce Maple trees ; still, occasionally, a 
seedling will be found that is quite distinct from all the 
others ; and if it should possess some peculiar and'striking 
characteristic which it would be desirable to perpetuate, 
tlien we must have recourse to some other method of prop- 
agating it than that of seeds, because it would take a long 
time for the new variety to grow to a bearing size ; be- 
sides, its seeds would be just as likely to vary, and even 
more so than the seeds from which it was grown. 

When trees have once shown any considerable variation 
from the original type, and the natural or fixed characters 
have changed, they are likely to sport more widely in the 
future generations than in the first one. This principle is 
so well known among horticulturists, that they always 
strive, when operating with a distinct species, to so influ- 
ence it that its seedlings will be different from the parent 
plant. 



BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETC. 35 

A variation is also often effected by moving a plant from 
its native country or soil to another ; and when this change 
has once taken place, and the foundation of generation has 
been broken up, then variations become as common and 
apparently as natural as the fixed character was in the 
beginning. All, or nearl}'- all, of our cultivated fruits and 
flowers are the results of the breaking up of the natural or 
original types from which the different species were deriv- 
ed. Knowing this, we should always watch for variations, 
and when discovered, preserve them with great care. 

When trees assume any particular form or character 
from the natural one, they are said to sport, and thus we 
have as sports of the Maple the striped-leaved, purple- 
leaved, etc. In nearly every species of ornamental trees 
we have such sports, and many of them are very beautiful,, 
affording a most pleasing variety of color and form of foliage,. 
and perhaps all were derived from a single species, thouglii 
often several have contributed one or more of the number^ 

Variations that possess any particular merit or value are- 
not common, still they are sufficiently so to warrant us to- 
be on the look-out for them, especially when a large num- 
ber of seedlings are grown. It will always be wortli 
while for the grower to carefully look over his seed- 
lings, and if he should discover any one or more that 
show any peculiar form or color of foliage, or any par- 
ticiilar habit of growth different from the mass, let 
them be marked, and at the j)roper time taken up and! 
planted by themselves, where their future development- 
may be carefully observed. We have a fine pyramidal- 
growing Maple ; but a weeping one would be still more- 



36 THE FOREST TKEE CL'LTL'EIST. 

desirable. Such a tree will be produced, but when, or by 
whom, the future will unfold. 

"When a really fine sport or variety has been produced, 
no time should be lost in multiplying it, as thei'e is always 
danger of losing the original ; and if this should occur, 
then all is lost, unless we have propagated others from it. 
Now there are several ways of propagating such trees, but 
I shall mention only three, viz.. Layering, Budding, and 
Grafting. 

LAYEEING. 

This mode of propagating is almost as natural as that 
of seeds, as we see many plants that increase in this man- 
ner. Whenever the branches come in contact with the 
earth they emit roots ; these layers throw up shoots which 
form plants, ti-ecs, or shrubs, and their branches again 
bending to the ground repeat the process, and so on indef- 
initely. But with those trees of which we shall treat in 
the following pages, very few, if any, Avould increase in 
this manner unless assisted or compelled to do so. The 
principle, or, more properly, the theory, of Layering may 
be explained as follows : 

A tree absorbs plant-food through its roots (this being 
alwa^'S in the liquid form) ; it is then carried up through 
the alburnum (or what is commonly called the sap-wood) 
to the buds and leaves ; it is there assimilated chiefly by 
the leaves, and the more volatile portions are given ofi"; it 
then returns downward through the inner bark, and be- 
tween it and the wood depositing a thin layer of alburnous 
matter, which becomes soon after fully formed wood. Now 
this material is deposited from the ends of the branches to 



BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETC 



37 



the ends of the lowest root, so that we see that hranches 
and roots are formed of one and the same material ; and 
if we wish to convert a branch into roots at any particular 
point, we have only to give it an opportunity of escaping 
into a congenial and natural element. Consequently, when 
we wish to make a branch produce roots so that it shall 
become capable of living independently of the parent 
plant, we bend it down and cover that j)ortion on which 
we wish to produce roots, at the same time making an in- 
cision through the bark and into the wood, so as to arrest 
or cut off the dowuAvard flow of sap at that particular 
point. This cutting the branch is not always necessary 
with all kinds to insure the production of I'oots ; still, it 
hastens the process, even with those that produce their 
I'oots most readily. But Ave must not cut so deeply as to 
prevent the upward flow, because we wish the branch to 
live and gi-ow until it has produced sufficient roots to sup- 




port itself As a general rule, the branch may be cut half 
through, and on the under side, and if slightly split, it will 
be all the better. Fig. 4 shows a layer as it appears when 



do THE FOEEST TKEE GULTUKIST. 

buried ia the soil. The incision is made in the branch 
before bending it down, and the knife inserted just below 
a bud, passing into the wood, and then an inch or more 
lengthwise, the branch forming what is termed a tongue — 
see fig. 4, a. A hooked peg is usually employed to hold 
the layer in its place, as it is important that it should be 
held firm, so that it may not be swayed about by the wind. 

Layers may be made at almost any time, but they will 
root sooner if made in early or mid-summer than if made 
earlier or later. But as they should not be separated from 
the parent plant until the wood is ripe in the fall, or the 
leaves have fallen, if from deciduous trees, it is well to 
make them in spring as soon as the trees have jjut forth 
their leaves, so that they shall have sufficient time to be- 
come well rooted by full. 

Evergreen trees should be layered while the trees are in 
full growth, and not before or after. It will sometimes 
require two seasons for layei's of some trees to become 
sufficiently rooted to be separated ; it is therefore necessary 
to carefully examine those that emit roots tardily before 
separating them. Some kinds of trees will produce roots 
when layered without cutting the branch — in fact, all will 
in time ; but the surest way is to expose the alburnum to 
the soil. Sometimes a part of a tree, or a small branch 
thereof, will vary from the original ; when this occurs 
on a large tree, and where the branch can not be made 
to reach the ground, we must elevate the soil or some sim- 
ilar material to the part that we wish to propagate, un- 
less it be a variety which can be readily propagated from 
cuttings, buds, or grafting. 



BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETC. 



39 



Suppose a single branch of Beech should produce leaves 
that were pui-e silver-white (and I know of one that does), 
and we wish to obtain plants from it ; as the Beech will 
not grow from cuttings, and is difficult to bud and gi-aft 
(at least the novice would find it so), we desire to ob- 
tain a layer ; now we have only to place a pot or box of 
soil near the branch so that we can layer it into the soil 
the same as we would if near the ground, after which it 
will be necessary to keep it moist to facilitate the jDroduc- 




Fig. 5. 

tion of roots. Fig. 5 shows a branch layered in a pot 
that has had a piece taken from the side and the branch 
passed throi^gh it ; this crevasse is closed by a piece of 
board or shingle placed on the inside of the pot ; the pot 
is then filled with soil, and the branch is layered. It is 
well to surround the pot with moss, or several thicknesses 
of cloth, so that the wind will not dry the soil too quickly, 
as in that case it will require very frequent watering. 
A box will answer every purpose as well as a pot ; all 



40 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. 

that is necessary is to make the incision in the branch be- 
fore putting it in the earth, and then see that it does not 
become so dry that the roots can not grow. 

BUDDING. 

Budding consists in taking from one tree a bud, with a 
small piece of bark attached, and transferring it to another. 
The tree upon which it is placed is called the stock. The 
limits of this operation are not very well defined ; but for 
all jjractical purjioses it need not be extended beyond the 
members of the same genus ; that is. Maples may be bud- 
ded on Maples ; and generally, the nearer related the 
species, the more successful the operation. But, like other 
rules in Horticulture, there are exceptions, and sometimes 
by budding a weak-growing kind on a strong-growing one, 
we make a decided improvement. Again, it must not be 
supposed that all the individuals of one genus can be Avorked 
indiscriminately one upon another ; for the Black Mazzard 
Cherry of Europe and the Wild Black Cherry of America 
are classed by our best botanists as belonging to one genus, 
still neither will grow upon the other. Many similar in- 
stances might be named ; in fact, to minutely describe all the 
variations which occur, or the different methods emj^loyed 
to reach the same results, would fill a volume by itself. 

Budding is usually performed in summer, just after the 
buds, or a portion of them, are fully developed on the 
young Avood of the present season's growth. The stock 
into which the buds are to be inserted must also be in a 
similar condition, so that the bark will part readily from 
the wood, as the bud or the bark attached to it is to 



BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETC. 



41 



be inserted under the bark of the stock, and unless this 
can be done the operation will usually fail. We have to 
depend upon assimilated or true sap to form the junction 
between the bud and stock, the same as we did with the 
layers to produce roots, for the operations are analogous ; 
only in budding, the alburnous matter forms a union with 
the same material in the stock, while in the layer it is 
emitted in the form of roots. 



now PERFORMED. 

In fig. 6, a, we have a bud Avhich is to be transferred to 
the stock ; a knife is inserted about one inch below it and 
passed upward, and brought out about a half inch above 
it, cutting out a piec3 of bark with a thin slice of wood, of 





Fig. 6. Fig. 7. 

a form as shown by the circular line in the figure. We 
now make a cut across the stock, cutting just through the 
bark, and then another longitudinally downward about an 
inch long, as shown in fig. 7 ; then insert the lower end of 



42 



THE FOKEST TREE CULTURIST. 



the bark containing the bud under the bark of the stock at 
the point where the incisions meet, and press it down to its 
place. If the bark of the stock is firm and does not part eas- 
ily, the edges must be lifted slightly, so as to allow the bud 
to pass under it freely. If the portion with the bud does not 
pass completely undei', tlien cut ofi" the bark at the upper 
end even with the cross cut in the stock so that it shall fit 
it smoothly. In fig. 7 a bud is shown taken out after the 
upper end has been cut off to fit. And on this is also 
shown a portion of a leaf stem as it is usually left. When 
buds are taken from the young wood, the leaves are cut 
off, leaving only about a half inch of the lower portion of 
the stem. 

After the bud is inserted, it is then secured in its place 
by a ligature, which may be of ba^s bark, 
woolen yarn, soft twine, or some similar 
material. Fig. 8 shows a bud as it apj^ears 
when tied in its place. The stock should 
not be over an inch in diameter, nor much 
less than one half inch, Avhether it be upon 
the main stem of a seedling or upon the 
branch of a large tree. After the bud has 
firmly united to the stock, which will usual- 
ly be in two or three weeks, the ligature 
should be loosened, or removed entirely. 
The bud is not expected to push into growth 
until the next spring (nor is it desirable that it should, 
though it sometimes will), at which time the stock above 
the bud should be cut away and the bud allowed to grow 
undisturbed. If sprouts appear on the stock they should 




Fig. 8. 



BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETC. 



43 



be removed, so that all the strength may 
be given to the bud. 

The implement with Avhich this operation 
is performed is called a budding-knife, and 
they are made of different forms, but the 
one in common use in the larger nurseries 
in this vicinity is similar in form to the one 
shown in fig. 9. It is here shown of full 
size, and may be made expressly for the 
purpose ; or any small knife with a thin 
blade of good material may have the end 
rounded, and will answer very well unless 
a large number of trees are to be budded, 
then it will be well to get knives made 
expressly for the purpose. The rounded 
end is used to lift the bark of the stock 
instead of using a thin ivory handle, as 
seen on old-time budding knives. 



I 3 1 



1=?nsr=^= 



ANNULAR BUDDING. 

This differs from the preceding in two 
particulars : first, the bud is not inserted 
under the bark of the stock, but is fitted 
to it. A ring of bark j^assing completely 
around the stem upon which is a bud, is 
taken from a branch, and a similar ring is 
cut from the stock, and the bud and bark 
are fitted into this and then carefully tied 
in its place. The branch from Avhich the 
bud is taken, and the stock to which it is 



m 



Fig. 9. 



44 



THE rOKEST TKEE CULTURIST. 



affixed, shoiild be of nearly the same size. Fig. 10 shows a 
stock and the ring of bark, with bud ready to be clasped 
around it. Second, it differs from the 
other mode of budding because it may 
be performed as readily in spring, when 
the bark first begins to peel, as at any 
other time, and is just as certain at that 
time as in summer. 

The other modes of budding may 
also be performed in spring, but not 
with so much certainty of success as 
in summer. Annular budding is not a 
common practice, because it is too 
tedious ; yet it is an excellent method 
of propagation where only a few trees 
arc to be woi-ked. Some of our forest 
trees, especially the Chestnut, are read- 
ily budded in this manner. 




GRAFTING. 

Grafting is a very common mode of propagating 
trees, and it should be — but is not — understood by 
every farmer in the land ; for thei'e is not one among 
them all who has not occasion to graft some fruit or 
forest tree every year of his life. Cleft grafting is the 
most common mode, and is chiefly employed when the 
stock is considerably larger than the graft. It is generally 
done in spring, just before the leaves push, or, in other 
words, just as the buds begin to swell, and is performed as 
follows. 



BUDDING, GKAFTING, ETC. 



45 



The stock, whether it be a branch of a large tree or a 
young seedling of one or two inches in diameter, is cut 
off square across with a saw ; it is then split with a chisel 
or knife, and the cleft kept open by a wedge until the 
graft (which is usually called a cion) is inserted ; the cion 
is usually made from a young branch of the last year's 
growth, about three inches long, containing two or three 
buds. The lower end is made wedge-shape, the two sides 
being sloped about an inch and a half; it is then inserted 
in the cleft, care being taken that the outside of the wood 
of the cion and stock are just even, or, in other Avords, that 
the inside of the bark of each meets that of the other. 
The wedge employed to keep the cleft open is withdrawn 
when the cions are inserted. Two 
cions may be inserted in each stock, 
if it be more than an inch in diame- 
ter ; but only one should be allowed 
to groAV, always reserving the best, 
after it is known that both have 
united. Fig. 11 shows a stock cleft 
grafted, also a cion ready for inser- 
tion. After the cions have been 
fixed in place, the end of the stock 
and down the cleft should be cov- 
ered with grafting-wax, to j^revent 
the wind drying the exposed wood, as well as to exclude 
air and water and preventing a union taking place. 




Fig. 11. 



SPLICE GRAFTING. 

This method is employed when the stock and cion are 



46 



THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. 



nearly the same size, and is performed at the same time 
of year as the preceding. The stock is cut off with an 
upward slope, making the exposed wood perfectly smooth ; 
a cion of two to four inches long is cut off with the same 
slope as the stock, and fitted to it, being careful to have 
the wood and bark on one side fit exactly. It would be 
better if both did, but this can not be done unless the cion 
and stock are of an exact size, which it would be difiicult 
to alwaj^s have. A small cleft or split maybe made in the 
stock and cion about midway on the slope, forming a 
c tongue on both ; these are then inserted 
one into the other, which will hold the 
cion firmly in its place. Fig. 12 shows 
the operation better than Avords can de- 
scribe it : c, the stock ; h, cion ; a, bud 
on cion, the union being formed by a 
tongued splice ; d shows a cion without 
being tongued. The common splice Avith- 
out the tongue is the best for the coarse, 
brittle woods ; but when it is fine-grain- 
ed and tough, and cuts smooth, then the 
tongue can be employed with benefit. 
The junction between the stock and graft 
should be covered with waxed cloth 
wound around tightly, so that it shall 
Fig. 12. hold it firmly in place. 




GRAFTING-y/AX. 



There are as many different recipes for making grafting- 
wax as there are modes of grafting, yet I have not learned 



BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETC. 47 

that any of the new compositions are better than the old, 
consequently I will give the method of making that which 
a century has proven to be good. The ingredients are 
beeswax, resin, and tallow in the following projDortions : 
one pound of tallow, two pounds of beeswax, and four 
pounds of resin melted together. If to be used in cool 
Aveather, add a little more tallow. If waxed cloth is want- 
ed, take common muslin or calico and spread the wax on 
it when it is melted ; or the cloth may be dijaped in the 
wax when it is quite hot, so that but little will adhere. 
The wax or waxed cloth will remain good for years, and 
will always be found quite handy to cover the wounds of 
trees that may be accidentally made while working among 
them, A wound covered so soon as made will soon heal 
over, when, if exposed to the air, it may be the cause of 
disease that will eventually destroy the tree. 



48 THE FOEEST TEEE CULTUKIST. 



CHAPTER VI. 

TRANSPLANTING. 

Most of our young seedling trees, as well as those from 
cuttings, will need transplanting after the first season's 
growth. But like all the other operations, it requires only- 
ordinary judgment to determine this point. If the young 
trees have grown vigorously, and are likely to be too much 
crowded before another season's growth is over, then they 
should be taken up and given more room. But if they 
have made only a moderate growth, and are not standing 
too thickly, they may remain in the seed-bed another year. 

Another point must also be settled by the grower, and 
that is, whether it is better to take up the young plants in 
the fall and heel them in for protection in winter, or let 
them remain in the bed. If the ground is of a kind that 
usually heaves (as it is termed) in winter, thereby endan- 
gering the young plants, then it would be better to take 
all the plants up in the fall. 

Some kinds, like the Maple and Elm, make an abundance 
of fibrous roots the first year, and are in no danger of be- 
ing thrown out even upon wet soil ; while some others, like 
the Oak and Hickory, make one long, carrot-like root the 
first year with few small roots, and are very liable to be 
thrown out unless the soil is very dry and porous. I have 
now particular reference to young seedling deciduous 



TKANSPLANTING, 49 

trees. When they become larger, say four to six years 
old, the fall is then the preferable time to transplant, as 
the ground becomes settled about the roots during win- 
ter, and wounds upon them will form rootlets much earlier 
in the spring than if transplanting is delayed iintil that 
time. But fall planting is usually done too late, and the 
ground does not get well settled around the roots before 
it freezes. If done at all at this season, it should be just 
so soon as the leaves fall or have ceased acting on the 
plant. In sections of the country where the fall of the 
leaf is immediately followed by cold freezing weather, 
transplanting large trees should be deferred to early spiing. 
North of the latitude of New York city I would not ad- 
vise planting any yearling or two-year-old trees in the fall, 
as the roots of such are not unusually large or numerous 
enough to hold them firmly, and they are more likely to 
be injured by the frost than if planted in the spring, when 
they will have time to become well rooted before being 
subjected to cold weather. But when young trees are to 
be transplanted from seed or cutting bed, they should be 
taken up in the fall and fully prepared for planting in 
spring. 

This preparation consists mainly in cutting off the tap- 
root and all the side branches. Fig. 13 shows a one-year 
seedling Black Walnut, the cross line, c, indicating the 
point where it should be cut oif. One third to two thirds 
of the length of the tap-root should be cut away, as it 
facilitates the emission of side roots when planted again. 
These side or lateral roots spread through the soil, giving 
the tree a wider ranije for obtainins: food than if tlie 



60 



THE FOREST TREE CULTUEIST. 



Pig. 13. 



growth of the tap-root ^yas encouraged. 
Thus by changhig the habit of the 
plant Ave increase its growth. 

Seedhng trees of one season's growth 
seldom haA'e many side branches ; but 
when there are any, it is best to cut 
them entirely away, preserving only 
the one main stem. The main shoot 
should not be disturbed, except in some 
particular cases that may occui*, as we 
wish to get a straight stem at the 
start, no matter whether we wish to 
head it back in after years or not. 
Long and elaborate essays upon the 
cutting off the tap-root are to be found 
V in nearly all of our laig'er works on 
Horticulture, some in favor of, and 
others denouncing, the practice with 
all the theory at command. I believe 
it to be best to cut them off, as it ren- 
ders the young tree more convenient 
to plant, besides placing it in a position 
most favorable to its future growth. 

When we allow the plants to remain 
in the seed-beds two years, there will 
be more or less side branches upon 
them. It is best to cut most of these 
off — all the largest, at least, as by do- 
ing this we preserve the equilibrium 
between root and top, as more or less 



TKANSPLANTING. 51 

roots are destroyed in taking iij^, besides the cutting off 
the lower portion of the main root. 

Trees grown from cuttings will have no tap-root, and 
consequently will not require the same pruning as seed- 
lings. But they will usually have much larger and 
stronger side roots as well as branches. Both should be 
shortened, to make them more convenient for handling as 
well as planting. The general from which such trees will 
naturally take can be readily seen when young, and the 
pruning should be made in accordance with the purpose 
for which they are intended. The trees may now be plajit- 
ed in nursery rows, where they can be cultivated, or where 
they are wanted for a forest. They will be better if 
planted in a nursery and well cultivated for a few years, 
say xmtil they are four to eight feet high, and then planted 
where it is intended they should remain. The root prun- 
ing and transplanting when young, as well as the after- 
cultivation, makes the plants throw out an abundance of 
fibroiis roots, which enables us to transplant them in after- 
years with the greatest ease and success. 



52 THE FOREST TBEE CULTURIST. 



CHAPTER VII. 

TEANSPLA]STING LAEGE TREES. 

SoMETniES it will be desirable to transplant large trees, 
and whether from the nursery or forest, the roots will be 
more or less broken. The ends that were cut off by the 
spade will be left very rough. Before being planted again, 
these broken roots should be removed, and the ends made 
as smooth as possible, for it is from these wounds that most 
of the new roots are formed. If the roots are left in a 
rough state, the water enters the pores and thej^ soon com- 
mence to decay ; and when this once begins, it will very 
often continue until the whole root is dead, and disease 
communicated to the tree that will sooner or later be the 
means of destroying it. I consider root pruning of so 
much importance that I never jjlant a tree of any kind, 
large or small, without first examining the roots, making 
every rough end and bruised spot smooth. Never plant a 
tree that has any dead or diseased roots ; better have but 
a part of one good, sound root than a dozen that are un- 
healthy. 

When roots are so long as to make it inconvenient to 
plant the tree and have the roots spread out at full length, 
they may be cut off, always making the cut fi'om the imder 
side upward and outward. Fig. 14, B, shows a root prop- 
erly cut, and A, one improperly. When roots are cut off 
in transplanting, a corresponding qviantity of the branches 




TRANSPLANTING LAKGE TREES. 06 

should be removed. If no roots have been destroyed, hav- 
ing been moved from the soil where they had become fixed, 
it requires some time for them to adapt 
themselves to their new position and 
draw sufficient sustenance from the soil 
to sujjport a new growth. 

Because roots are in soil is no evi- 
dence that they can take up that which 
they need from it, for they require 
contact by growth before they can ab- 
sorb plant-food to any considerable 
amount. It therefore becomes indis- ^^°' ^^' 

pensable that we should remove a portion of the branches, 
that they may not call for more nutriment than the roots 
are capable of supplying. It may not be positively neces- 
sary to save the life of the tree or insure a rapid growth, 
still experience proves it to be beneficial, although some 
theorists have labored long and faithfully to convince the 
practical planter who freely amputates roots and branches 
that he does not understand his business. 

The novice in tliese matters has only to ask himself the 
question, What is my object in performing this or that 
operation ? in other words, keep thinking as he progresses 
Avith his work. If he wants his tree to grow low and 
spreading, he must see that it is necessary to give it room 
to do so, and if it does not take that form, cut off the 
leading shoot and compel it. If he wants the opposite, 
then trim off the lower branches, and not give the tree so 
much room to spread. 

Every one who has ever seen a forest must have observ- 



54: THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST 

ed that the more crowded the trees the more slender in 
growth — the upper branches seeking the light, and the 
lower ones dying for the want of it. 

Never cut away a branch unless you can satisfactorily to 
yourself answer the question lohfy. In such matters I 
Avould much rather trust to the common sense of the novice 
(if he will use it) tlian to the professional gardener who 
walks in the i>ath Avhicli has been made for him by others, 
and who is afraid to deviate for fear of losing his way. 

It is not a general practice to pnine evergreen trees at 
the time of transplanting, but with most kinds it can be 
done with safety and with benefit. Evergreen trees usual- 
ly do not extend their roots so w^idely as the deciduous 
trees, consequently they are more readily taken up entire, 
therefore obviating to some extent the necessity of lessen- 
ing the branches. 

When planting a tree of large size, say from ten to 
tAventy feet high, and one that has large lateral roots, we 
should endeavor to make the soil under it of such a con- 
sistency that it will settle evenly — not more in the center 
than upon the outsides, for in that case there would be a 
vacuum left under the center of the tree, which should be 
avoided. If tlie roots are not sufficiently strong to hold 
lip the tree and the soil above, then they become bent and 
thrown out of their natural position, which in most trees 
is at a slight angle from the stem downward. 

Very foAv persons will go to the expense of properly 
preparing soil for the reception of trees. TJnderdraining 
and thorough subsoiling should always be done if it is clay 
or heavy loam. Some will endeavor to make up for their 



TRANSPLANTING LAEGE TEEE8. 



55 




5G TIIK FOKEST TREE CULTURIST. 

neglect by digging large, deep holes, filling them up Avith 
good soil, and on this plant their trees. This is a very- 
good plan, and the larger they are made the better. But 
on clayey soils the}' often become mere reservoirs that re- 
ceive all the surface-water for several yards about the tree, 
making a mud-hole instead of a dry place, 

Tlie shape in which holes are generally dug is only mak- 
ing a bad matter worse ; that is, making them deeper in 
the center thau upon the outside, so that when filled up to 
the i^roper height to receive the tree, there is a greater 
depth of loose soil under the center, where there is less use 
for it, tlian at the exti-emities of the roots. The proper 
sliape in which to leave the subsoil in the bottom of the 
liole is in the form of a dome. When the hole is filled up 
to where you wish to set the tree, yon have less loose soil 
under the center than at the extremities of the roots, 
which entirely obviates the difficulty mentioned above. 
As the water passes down through the soil and reaches this 
cone, it settles away from the tree instead of remaining 
under it. Fig. 15, A, shows the form of the bottom of the 
hole when ready for the tree. If a post auger is bored 
down in two or more places around the outside of the 
hole, B, B, it will be found very beneficial in carrying ofi" 
the suri^lus water. Some may object to this form of leav- 
ing the bottom, as it will not leave as much room for the 
center or tap-root. But we are supposing that the trees 
have been carefully pi-epared Avhen young, and the tap-root 
cut away at the proper time. 

In planting trees of large size, it becomes necessary that 
we should use some means by which we can keep them 



TEAJSTSPLANTING LARGE TREES. 57 

firm in their places until fibrous roots obtain a better hold 
of the soil than they had when first planted. The oscillat- 
ing of the stem displaces the roots, and though but little, 
it will often be sufficient to break the connection of the 
young rootlets with the soil, thereby cutting off the sources 
through which food must come. To prevent this, a great 
variety of means have been employed. The usual method 
is to plant a stake with the tree, reaching several feet up 
the stem, and make the two fast together with some bark, 
straw, or soft rope. Sometimes two stakes are employed, 
being driven a foot or more from the tree on opposite sides, 
and the tree made fast to these with rope or straw ties. 
Another method is to drive four stakes on opposite sides 
and several feet from the tree, and from these extend a 
strong wire to the ujDper portions of the stem. This, with- 
out doubt, is the surest means of keeping the tree in its 
j)lace, and especially for those kinds which have few if any 
large roots. But it must be remembered that plants as 
well as animals need exercise, and no tree will remain 
healthy or grow as vigorously in a position Avhere it can 
not have the exercises which Nature designed it should, 
though it is very probable that depriving the stem for one 
season of the slight movement which it naturally receives 
would not injure it to any conceivable amount. But these 
appliances are not very ornamental, and are sometimes 
very inconvenient, especially when you wish to cultivate 
the ground about the tree, which should be done the first 
year after planting, if no longer. I have practiced the fol- 
lowing method of staking large trees that have strong 
lateral roots, and find it answers the purpose better than 

3* 



58 



THE FOEKST TEEE CULTUEIST. 



any other I have tried. Make some stakes, two or more 
feet in length, of good strong wood, leaving a branch fonr 
or five inches long on one side, and about the same distance 
from the end — fig. 16. If trees are not handy 
to make these from, some plank will answer as 
well, cutting a notch in the edge. When the 
tree is placed at the proper depth, drive these 
stakes down by the side of the largest roots so 
that the hook will clasj) and hold the root 
firm. See fig. 15. Three or four of these will 
be sufficient for each tree, vmless they are veiy 
large. Fill up the hole as usual, covering up 
the stakes ; they will rot away in two or three 
years ; if not, they will do no harm. By fol- 
lowing this plan you have no wires or other 
Fig. 16. unsightly machinery in view, leaving the stem 
and branches free, while the roots are kept as firm in 
their place as cox\ld be desired. 




DEPTH TO PLANT TREES. 

No tree taken from nursery or forest should be planted 
any deej^er than when in its original position. But as the 
newly moved soil will usually settle somewhat, both that 
which is under as well as that which is put over the roots, 
it is best to provide for this by placing the tree a little 
higher in the soil atid covering the roots a little deeper so 
as to allow for this settlinsf. 



PLANTING TREES FOR SHELTER. 

In selecting trees for shelter, much depends upon th' 



TEAJSrSPLANTIjSTG LAKGE TREKS. 59 

amount of land to be used for that purpose. If only a few 
feet in width can be spared, then those kinds must be 
selected which will afford the most protection for the sjjace 
occupied. When only a narrow belt is to be planted, then 
evergreen trees are the most suitable. Soil and situation 
will also determine in a measure what particular varieties 
are best adapted for the purpose. Some kinds will grow 
almost equally well upon low, wet soil as in a high and dry 
situation, while others make but a poor growth if planted 
in any soil which differs much from the one in which they 
naturally grew. Hemlock will grow in a low, wet situa- 
tion, provided there is a gravelly or stony subsoil ; but 
they will seldom attain a large size, and they will always 
be more or less diseased. A moist, deep loam is the best 
suited to them — a cold, clayey soil the very worst. Arbor- 
vitses. White Cedar, and Balsam Fir will do well on low 
land. The Arborvitse will also do well on quite dry soil. 
The Balsam Fir and White Cedar do moderately well, 
but prefer a moist soil. Therefore, in planting a belt of 
trees, if the soil is variable, use trees of different kinds, 
unless one kind is preferred and the preparation of the 
ground to suit is not an objection. The Hemlock is cer- 
tainly one of the most beautiful of evergreen trees. No 
foreign variety excels it in graceful foliage or richness of 
color. I would place this at the head of the list of ever- 
green trees for the purpose of shelter or as a single speci- 
men tree. It grows well when planted in masses, and 
never looks stiff and formal when grown in large belts or 
hedges. It is of raj)id growth, and transplants with ease 
when grown in a nursery from seed. There are various 



60 THE FOREST TREE CULTTJRIST. 

Other kinds wliicli Avill also make an excellent screen, but I 
can not name them all in this place. 

To make a screen that will not occupy more than ten 
feet wide only, a single row should be planted. The trees 
should be at least three feet apart for a healthy growth, 
and if they remain in the nursery until they are four to six 
feet high, they should be j^lanted four to six feet apart. If 
planted upon very dry soil, it is well to mulch the surface 
of the soil for three or four feet wide on each side the row ; 
or, in place of this, keep the surface of the soil loose and 
free of weeds with a hoe for two or three years, or until 
the lower branches spread sufficiently to shade the ground. 
Always plant Avhen the soil is moist, but not wet, and take 
^^p the trees with as much soil adhering to the roots as jdos- 
sible. Late sj^ring, after the ground has become settled, is 
the best time to transplant evergreen trees at the North. 

Some persons trim their evergi-een trees, when planted 
in belts, so as to give them a hedge-like appearance. 
This is a matter of taste; but for my part I prefer an 
undulating, irregular appearance to that of a stiif, mo- 
notonous one, which is often seen displayed where we 
would least expect it. A hedge is one thing, and a belt 
of trees for protection is quite another. Two or three rows 
of trees are much better, when the land can be spared, 
than a single row ; besides, it gives a more solid and noble 
appearance to the place which it surrounds. 

When two or more rows are planted, the trees may be 
planted farther apart, and alternately, as shown in diagram, 
****** 5 o^' when three or moi-e rows are used, fol- 
lowing the same plan, thus giving an equal space to each 



TEANSPLAISTTING LARGE TREES. 61 

tree. When we get beyond four or five rows, then some 
of the deciduous trees may be employed with the ever- 
greens, but it is better not to intermingle them, but place 
them on one side, as this mode is much preferable to mix- 
ing together, as is sometimes done. If you form groups, 
then evergreen and deciduous trees may be planted to- 
gether, as sufficient space can be given each for full devel- 
opment. It will often occur that only a large single group 
of trees is wanted to break the wind from some particular 
direction. In such cases grouping the different varieties of 
evergreen trees, interspersed with the deciduous, would 
certainly give a more pleasing effect than to have it made 
up of any particular kind ; but the arranging of groups 
belongs to the landscape gardener, upon whose grounds I 
do not wish to trespass — at least not here. Deciduous 
trees are not so suitable for protection as evergreens, unless 
planted in large numbers. It will, however, often be econ- 
omy to plant them in situations where they will afford 
shelter, and at the same time be growing for other pur- 
poses. 

If a rapid growth is required, it is best to plant in rows, 
not only for convenience in cultivating them while young, 
but as they are thinned from time to time, the spaces be- 
tween the trees can be left more uniform, allowing each to 
occupy a certain amount of room. Trees which have equal 
space on all sides will grow more uniformly than when 
crowded on one side and an abundance of room on an- 
other. How far apart trees should be planted at the be- 
ginning, must depend upon the purpose for which they arc 
grown. If they are of a kind which will be valuable when 



62 THE FOREST TREK CULTUEIST. 

young, then plant very thickly, and thin out as requir- 
ed ; but if only wanted when they become large, then 
plant at a considerable distance, for if allowed plenty of 
room, they will of course grow more rapidly than when 
crowded. The value of some kinds of timber is increased 
by the rapidity of its growth, but with other kinds, that 
which grows most slowly is the best. 

A Locust or Red Cedar that grows forty feet high in 
ten years is not so good as one that takes twenty years to 
i*each that height. But a thrifty, rapid-growing Hickory is 
much tougher and better than one that grows very slowly. 

MIXING VARIETIES. 

Planting several kinds together is an old English cus- 
tom, the utility of which is at least questionable. ISTo two 
varieties will grow with equal A'igor upon the same soil, 
consequently the more raj)id growing are constantly en- 
croaching upon the weaker. If a variety requires protec- 
tion, then plant a kind which does not need it in such a 
position as to afford that protection, but do not intermingle 
them. Let each kind be entirely separate, and still the 
weak will be benefited by the close proximity to the 
stronQ:er. 



TKUNING OF FOREST TREES. 63 



CHAPTER YIII. 

PRUNING OF FOREST TREES. 

This is another subject upon wbich there has been much 
discussion, and the more the subject is agitated the greater 
becomes the number of opinions and theories. While the 
trees remain in the nursery rows they require annual prun- 
ings in order that we may have them of the proper shape 
when required for permanent plantations. It is not desir- 
able to prune them severely, but only to give the growth 
the proper direction. Sometimes there will be several 
leading shoots, and the tree will assume the shape of a 
shrub more than of a tree. In such cases, all the shoots, 
except the strongest, should be cut away close to the main 
stock. All suckers from near the base of the tree should 
be annually cut oif. The trees should also be trimmed up 
— that is, the lower branches cut off smooth to the stem, 
epecially when the trees are Avanted for timber, A straight 
stem is always desirable, and it can not be had with some 
varieties unless the knife is frequently used. If the trees 
are properly pruned when young, there will be no neces- 
sity of taking off large branches when they become old. 
Too many branches must not be taken off at one time, as 
leaves are indispensable to growth ; but young trees may 
produce more leaves than is necessary for a healthy growth, 
and a reduction in number may increase rather than de- 



64: THE FOREST TKEE CULTUKIST. 

crease strength, as it will enable those leaves that remain 
to enlarge and act with more visfor than if all had remain- 
ed. Some varieties will require but little pruning, while 
others imperatively demand it at least once a year, or A^ery 
little progress will be observed. 

Pruning should not be j^racticed to such an extent that 
the tree will be eventually weakened or checked in growth. 
Neither should too many of the lower branches be taken 
off at one time, but expose the stem gradually to the sun. 
A tree when grown in the open field will usually produce 
branches sufficient to shade the whole of its stem. This 
appears to be not only natural but beneficial, for when the 
stem is fully exposed to the sun the bark becomes dry and 
hot, and the flow of sap is retarded in its circulation. It 
is only while young and the bark thin that any particular 
injury will be perceived. The stems of trees do not re- 
quire the dii-ect rays of the sun, but the leaves can not 
exist long without them. 

When trees are grown in nurseries, the stems are par- 
tially shaded, consequently the loAver branches are not re- 
quired for shade, but only to assist growth until a sufficient 
number of others have been produced, so that their services 
can be dispensed with without injury to the tree. 

Trees when standing alone shovild have at least two 
thirds of their height occupied with branches. But when 
grown in thickets, and for the purjjose of producing tim- 
ber, this rule may be reversed, and the branches occupy 
only one third, varying the rule according to the natural 
habit of the tree. If it is one of those which produce a 
conical head, like the Balsam, Tulip, and Larch, then allow 



PRUNING OF FOKEST TREES. 65 

one half the height for the branches. Any one who will 
observe the natural habit of a tree will soon learn how it 
should be pruned to make it serve the purpose for which 
it is wanted. It can be made crooked or straigiit, with 
many stems or one, for trees are not so intractable as is 
sometimes supposed. 

I think there is little need of my warning the novice in 
forest tree culture of the injury which may result from 
pruning too much, because we see that there are too many 
cases of failure from not pruning enough, even among those 
who profess to thoroughly understand the laws of vege- 
table physiology. 

We often see young trees that have become stunted in 
growth, and no amount of manure or cultivation will set 
them growing. Many a professional gardener will give 
physiological lectures upon their case, explaining the reason 
of their perversity, when, if he would take his knife and 
cut the tree down to the ground, or severely head it back, 
it would make a growth of several feet before he gets 
through with his lecture, or searching for reasons why the 
nitrogen and ammonia in the manui-e, or the superphos- 
phate which had been applied, did not act on the vital 
functions of the tree. 

PRUNING EVEKGEEENS. 

Evergreen trees will submit to the knife as well as decid- 
Tious trees ; but as they are not likely to be so genex'ally 
grown for timber as the others, it will not be necessary to 
go into detail as to the best method of pruning them. As 
a general rule, they should not be pruned when young, un- 



66 THE FOKEST TREE CULTUEIST. 

less it is for the purpose of giving tLeni some particular 
shape. When several leaders are produced, the tree grows 
too broad in proportion to its height, then take out all but 
one ; or t£ any side branches gi'ow beyond and out of pro- 
portion to others, cut them back. They may be headed 
back or trimmed up to suit our purpose ; but this pruning 
may be delayed until the tree has become well established 
and five to ten feet in height. 

The planter has only to keep in view the object to be 
obtained : If the trees are wanted for long, straight tim- 
ber, then long, erect stems will be required ; but if for 
screens, than preserve as many lower branches as possible, 
to give density to the tree. 

When trees are grov.ni for ornament, and are given 
plenty of room, very little pruning is required, as they will 
usually take a natural form, which is always more beauti- 
ful to those who liave acquired a correct taste than any dis- 
tortion that may be given by the pruner. 

Every tree-grower should study the natural habits of 
the tree, and then he can mold it to his liking and make it 
subservient to his wishes. 

TIME TO PKUNE. 

Pruning should never be performed at a time when the 
sap will flow from the wound, as this would not only 
weaken the tree, but the exuding sap coA'ers the wound, 
and often causes the exposed wood to decay. Our object, 
therefoi'e, should be to choose a time when the tree will 
not bleed (as it is termed), and the wound made will be 
covered Avith new wood the soonest. For this purpose 



PKTJNING OF FOREST TKEES. 67 

there is no better time than in summer, after the leaves 
have become fully formed and the tree has commenced to 
make a neAv growth. The wound made will have sufficient 
time for healing over, or jDartially so, during summer, and 
few tiees will bleed at this time, and none enough to 
injure them. 

Pruning may also be done any time in summei", fall, or 
early winter, but should not be performed in the latter 
part of winter or just as the spring approaches, for at this 
season there is more or less dan<2:er of the trees bleeding. 
Some varieties may be pi'uned at any time without any ap- 
l^arent injury, and those kinds from which the sap flows 
but very little may be pruned in winter, any time before 
the cold weather has passed, as one cold night will so dry 
the wounds that no sap will exude. There are other kinds, 
like the Maple, which, if Avounded in winter, will be most 
sure to bleed at the approach of warm weather. Mid- 
summer is the best time to prune all resinous trees, as well 
as those that produce gum. 

When trees are transplanted, they should be pruned at 
the time, as no tree will bleed after the roots have been 
separated from the soil. If we cut off" a branch of the 
Birch or Maple in early spring, the sap will flow very 
rapidly from the wound ; but if we dig up the tree, the 
sap will cease flowing in a few moments. 

IMPLEMENTS USED IN PRUNING. 

The common pruning-knife is the best implement for 
pruning small trees ; but when large branches are to be 
removed, a fine tooth-saw may be used, always smoothing 



68 THE FOEEST TKEE CDLTURIST, 

the wound with a sharp knife or chisel. An application of 
some material which will cover the wound and exclude 
water, is often beneficial where large wounds are made, 
hut it is not necessary when only small branches are taken 
off. Various compositions are in use for this purposes, but 
common grafting-wax applied when warm, or gum-shellac 
dissolved in alcohol and applied with a brush, will exclude 
the air perfectly until there will be but little danger of 
decay. 



TIME TO CUT TIMBER. 



-* CHAPTER IX. 

TIME TO CUT TIMBER. 

It is not to be supposed that the mtelligent farmer who 
may at any time be in want of a stake for his sled or 
grapevine Avill wait until some particular season before 
he cuts it ; neither will he consult some old-time almanac 
to learn whether the sign is right, or the moon is of 
the proper age — for such superstition belongs to the past, 
as the moon has not the influence on vegetation that our 
grandfathers believed in their time. There are, however, 
certain seasons in which it is more convenient to cut tim- 
ber than in others. 

Many persons assert that if a tree is cut in October or 
November, the wood will be much more durable than if 
cut in April or May. Under some circumstances this may 
be true ; in others, it is not. In the spring the sap is in a 
fluid state, and the outer portions of the tree contain more 
water than in autumn, consequently if cut at this time, and 
no opportunity given it to get rid of this excess of moisture, 
it will decay more rapidly than if cut when com^^aratively 
dry. The bark is also soft at this time, allowing those in- 
sects which deposit their eggs that produce the various 
worms — larva3 — a better opportunity for doing so. Every 
farmer Avill have observed that his Hickory and some 
other kinds of wood will be infested with worms and be- 



70 THE FOREST TKEE CULTUEIST. 

come (as often termed) powcler-2:)ortecl. The old Hemlock 
stumps and logs are often found quite tilled with large, 
whitish worms of two or more inches in length. The Lo- 
cust, the Wild Thorn-Apple, Beech, and many other kinds 
of trees, are much infested with borers, and very fevv^^trees 
are entirely exempt. 

Some kind of insects attack the trees while they are 
growing, wliile others do so only when they are decaying. 
All these borers or worms are but the larvse of some kind 
of winged insect hatched from their eggs, deposited in or 
under the bark or soft wood at some j)eriod of its growth 
or decay. Some species of these worms feed entirely upon 
live wood, while others upon that which is dead or decay- 
ing. The habits and appearance of most of these insects 
arc well known to entomologists, and fully described in the 
various works on that subject. 

When trees are cut down in the fall, the sap which was 
in a fluid state in the spring has now become wood, and 
the outer surface is comparatively dry, so much so that 
few insects have the power of inserting their ovipositor 
(egg placer) into or through the bark, consequently a less 
number of eggs will be deposited than if the tree had 
been cut in the spring. But when we cut small timber 
for posts, stakes, etc., it is always best to take oif the bark, 
for if left on it Avill absorb and retain moisture to an ex- 
tent that will hasten the decay of the wood. If cut in 
spring, the bark comes off readily and leaves the Avood 
clean ; but at any other time it is removed with difBculty. 
Thus there appears to be an objection to both seasons, and 
no intermediate one is any better. When large trees are 



TIME TO CUT TIMBER. Tl 

cut, such as ave suitable for licwn timber, boards, rails, 
etc., if placed in a position Avheve they will soon become dry 
and seasoned, there is probably no choice in the season. 

From the observation which I have been able to make 
in cutting and using more or less timber, from my boyhood 
to the present time, I have come to the conclusion that 
trees cut in spring and immediately stripped of their bark, 
and then exposed fully to the sun and air so that the sur- 
face will soon dry, will last as long and be as durable in 
any position as when cut at any other time. 

All stakes and posts which are to be set in the ground 
should be stripped of their bark, certainly that portion 
which is placed under ground. When we consider the 
fact, that it is only the outer portions of the tree — the sap- 
wood, leaves, buds, and inner layers of the bark — which are 
really alive and contain true sap, all other portions being- 
dead, and only serve as a covering or like the heart-wood 
sustaining the tree in its position, we can readily see why 
it wall make no material difference in the lasting qualities 
of timber whether it is cut in the new, full, or old moon, 
summer or winter, provided the green portion is soon 
dried so that insects can not find a lodgment for their 
eggs, nor decay be accelerated by the presence of moisture. 

We may have other objects in view besides the value of 
the timber taken, such as a second crop produced by 
sprouts from the old stumps ; if so, then there are certainly 
particular seasons which are better than others. If the 
trees are cut in late fall or winter, the roots and stumps 
will throw up sprouts much more abundant and vigorous 
than if the trees are cut in summer when in full growth. 



72 THE FOKEST TEEE CT7LTUBIST. 

In fact, the latter period is just tlie time to exit oiF trees 
and small under shrubs if we wish to kill the roots. The 
exact time of year to cut tiraher to kill the roots can not 
be given, as the seasons vary as Avell as climate in the dif- 
ferent latitudes. The right time here would not be the 
right time forty miles north or south. Many rules have 
been given, such as the three longest days, the old or the 
new moon in certain months ; but these rules would not 
give the same results in any two States in the Union, nor 
hardly apply to any two speciea of tree or shi'ub, conse- 
quently they are useless. When trees or shrubs have 
nearly completed their new growth in summer, but not 
entirel}^, they will suffer more by being cut down than at 
any other time. 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 73 



CHAPTER X. 

DECIDTJOUS TKEES, 

The following list of trees is arranged alphabetically 
according to their generic botanical name.* I have fol- 
lowed Dr. Asa Gray in the names of most of our native 
trees, believing him to be the best authority extant, at 
least so far as regards the native trees of our Northern 
forests. But no full botanical description will be attempted, 
as this would necessitate tiie use of many words Avhich 
are not generally understood, my object being only to call 
the attention of the reader to the most valuable native 
forest trees, also noticing a few of the best foreign species 
which are well suited to cultivation in the IsTorthern States, 
the seeds of Avhich can be readily obtained. 

Acer. {Maple.) 

A genus containing many species, most of which are 
trees of large size ; only a few are shrubs. The Ma- 
ples have palraated-lobed leaves, with the edges vari- 
ously serrated (notched). Fig. 17 shows a leaf of the 

■"" The word generic is from the Latin genus, and is applied to p:irticu- 
lar groups. For instance, Acer is the generic for the -wliole group of 
Maples. The specific name is applied to the different individuals of the 
group, and follows the generic name. Sugar Maple is called Acer Sac- 
charinum, Acer being the generic, and Saccharinum being the specific 
or name of the species. 

4 



u 



THE FOREST TKEE CULTUKIST. 



Red Maple somewhat less than natural size. Flower 
small, not very conspicuous ; seeds in pairs, remaining to- 
gether until ripe ; each seed is furnished with a long wing- 
like appendage. Seeds of this form are called keys, or by 




Pig. 17. Fig. 18. 

botanists, samaras. In fig. 18 a pair of the Oregon Maple 
seeds are shown ; they are somewhat larger than any of 
the species native of the Atlantic States. 

Acer saccharinum {Sugar Maple, Mock Maple, Sard 
Maple). — Leaves three to five lobed, deep green above and 
paler beneath ; flowers greenish yellow, appearing with 
the leaves ; wing of seeds Quite broad ; ripe in autumn ; 



DECIDUOUS TKEES. 75 

should be sown soon after being gathered, or placed in a 
cool place until spring. A Avell-known tree, possessing 
many valuable qualities, one of which is its sweet sap, 
from which large quantities of sugar are annually made. 
The wood is hard and firm, and much used in cabinet- 
work. Sometimes trees are found in which the grain of 
the Avood has a wavy undulating appearance ; it is then 
called Curly Maple. The wood is also one of the most 
valuable for fuel. A beautiful as well as valuable rapid- 
growing tree ; often grows to the height of eighty feet ; 
prefers a calcareous soil — that is, one in which lime 
abounds. Abundant in most of the Northern States, and 
in some of the mountainous regions of the South. 

Acer ijigeum {Slack Maple). — This is only a variety 
of the last, and very similar to it in growth and general 
appearance, but does not come into leaf quite as early in 
spring as the preceding ; seeds ripen at the same time, and 
should receive same treatment. 

Acer Penksylvanicum {Striped Maple). — Leaves three- 
lobed, quite pointed; flowers greenish yellow, appearing 
with the leaves ; seeds ripen in autumn ; a small tree, of 
no value for its timber, but quite ornamental ; very com- 
mon both North and South. 

Acer dastcaepum {White or Silver Mapjle). — Leaves 
deeply five-lobed ; deep green above and silver-white un- 
derneath ; flowers reddish yellow, sometimes only pale yel- 
low, appearing before the leaves ; seeds ripen early in the 
season, generally about the time leaves are fully expanded, 
and must be sown soon after they are ripe, as they Avill keep 
but a short time. It is the most rapid growing of all the 



I 



76 THE FOKEST TREE CULTUKIST. 



Maples ; will often grow twenty feet high in three or four 
years from seed ; succeeds well in a great variety of soils, 
but prefers a rich, moist one. Its wood is fine-grained, and 
used for a variety of purposes ; it is not so hard or valu- 
able as the Sugar Maple, but the tree is of more rapid 
growth. The sap is sweet, but not sufficiently so to pay 
for gathering and boiling for sugar. 

Some of the finest specimens of Curl and Birds'-eye 
Maple are obtained from this species. It is found more 
abundant at the West and South than at the East. Many 
thousands of this tree are annually planted in the parks 
and streets of New York and other Eastern cities. If the 
seeds are sown as soon as ripe, they Avill make a growth 
of one to two feet the first season. This tree deserves par- 
ticular attention by those who are desirous of obtaining 
wood for fuel ; although it is not quite as valuable for that 
purj)ose as some others, still it is good, and the rapidity 
of its growth more than compensates the deficiency in 
quality. When at maturity it is often sixty to seventy 
feet high. 

Acer rubrum {Red Maple). — Leaves three to five 
lobed — the center one the longest ; Avhitish underneath, 
but not so white as the Silver Maple; flowers usually deep 
scarlet or crimson, but sometimes pale yellow, appearing 
very early in spring before the leaves ; seeds ripen early, 
about the same time as the Silver Maple, but are not quite 
as large. The small branches are also deep red in win- 
ter. Its wood is rather soft, and decays rapidly if exposed 
to the v>^eather ; sometimes used for cabinet-work, as occa- 
sionally fine specimens of Curl Maple are found among 



DECIDUOUS TKEES. 



77 



the larger trees. Very common in swamps throughout the 
country. Grows sixty to seventy feet high, with stem one 
to three feet in diameter. Fig. 19 represents a seedling 
Red Maple as it appears when but a fcAV inches high, hav- 
ing produced but two pairs 
of leaves, the lower pair be- 
ing those that were contain- 
ed in the seed, and termed 
cotyledons. 

Acer spicatum {Mountain 
Maple). — This is only a tall 
shrub ; very common at the 
North, but of no value for its 
wood. 

Acer Negundo {Ash- 
Leaved Maple., Negundo 
Maple). — This is sometimes 
called Negundo aceroides. 
It is a small tree with light 
yellowish green branches, 
used only as an ornamental 
tree ; seeds ripen middle to 
last of summer ; common 
West and South. Fig. 19. 




FOREIGN SPECIES. 



Acer platan oides {Norway Maple). — Leaves similar 
in appearance to the Sugar Maple, but larger and of more 
s'.-bstance; seeds ripen in the fall, and are considei-ably 
laiger than our native species, except jDerhaps the Oregon 



7S THE FOREST TEEE CCLTUEIST. 

Maple. The Norway Maple is of slow growth while 
young, but grows quite rapidly after it is five or six years 
old. It is a very handsome tree, and well worthy of cul- 
tivation. Its wood is hard and fine-grained. 

Acer Pseudo-Platanus {Sycamore Maple). — A rather 
coarse-growing tree with large dark-green leaves. It is 
not a handsome tree, but is a rapid grower ; its wood is 
hard and moderately fine-grained, and is valuable. Seeds 
are produced in long pendulous racemes ; ripe in autumn, 
and ]"equire same treatment as others ripening at that time. 
Seeds of this and the preceding species can be procured 
from trees growing in this country. There are many other 
species of Maples, but those mentioned are the most com- 
mon, and probably the most valuable for timber trees. 

Maples, with but few exceptions, are i-eadily worked one 
upon the other by budding. The Norway Maple grows 
more rapidly when budded upon the Sugar Maple. The 
Silver and Red Maple will also grow from cuttings, if 
planted early in spring in moist soil ; the two or three 
year-old wood roots more freely than the one-year-old. 

-^scuLus. [Horse Chestnut.) 

There are none of this genus worthy of much atten- 
tion, except for ornamental pui-poses. The trees are most- 
ly of small size, and the wood of little value, .^sculus 
Hippocastanum, the common Horse Chestnut, is a native 
of Asia, but has been extensively planted in this country. 
Its beautiful flowers and the handsome foliage makes it 
generally admired. It grows to quite a large tree ; leaves 
digitate, divided into seven leaflets. 



DECroiJOUS TKEES. 79 

^scuLTJs GLABRA {OMo JBucJceye). — Leatlets five, as 
shown in fig. 20 ; flowers pale yellow ; seeds large, nut- 
like, inclosed in a tliick husk-like envelope, slightl}^ prickly- 




Fig. 20. 
when young ; inside shell dark colored, shining. Seeds, 
ripe in autumn, should be but slightly covered with earth, 
or protected with leaves or other mulch ; common in Ohio, 
Pennsylvania, and Kentucky ; a slender-growing tree, forty 
to sixty feet high. 

JEscuLus PURPURESCENS {Puvple Buckeye). — A small- 
growing tree with dull purple flowers ; common in the 
Southern States. 

tEsculus Pa via {JRed Buckeye). — Leaflets five to 
seven, smooth deep green ; a small tree ; much admired 
for its deej) red flowers; Virginia and southward, although 
perfectly hardy in this latitude. 

JEscuLus FLAVA [Yellow Buckeye). — Leaflets five to 
seven ; flowers yellow ; fruit large, smooth, ripe in autumn. 
This is the largest native species, sometimes growing to 
the height of seventy feet ; Ohio, Indiana, and the South. 

The seeds of the Horse Chestnut are all of large size, 



80 THE FOKEST TKEE CULTUKIST. 

from one to two inches in diameter, containing a large 
amount of farinaceous matter, which is very soon affected 
if placed in a dry situation or in a warm wet one. In a 
cool, moist situation they Avill remain sound for several 
months. Most of them ripen early in autumn, and should 
be immediately spread in a cool, shady place until wanted 
for planting. I have succeeded best by scattering the 
seeds in wide drills, and then filling the interstices between 
them with loose, friable soil, then covering them two or 
three inches deep with leaves. The most of these should 
be raked off in the spring ; and so soon as the seeds have 
made an inch or two of growth (which they will do quite 
early), draw a little spil about them. The young seedlings 
havo large, fleshy tap-roots producing few lateral ones the 
first season ; and they should always be transplanted when 
young, and the tap-root shoi-tened, Never allow them to 
remain in the seed-bed longer than two years. The Horse 
Chestnuts are readily worked one upon the other by bud- 
ding ; but as they generally make their entire growth 
early in the season, this operation must be done much ear- 
lier than with many other trees. 

Betula. {Birch.) 

Tliere are several native species of Birch, some of which 
grow to a large size. It is more common at the North 
than at the South. The wood is fine-grained, but not 
tough. Seeds produced in catkins, and are quite small, 
ripen in summer, and should be mixed with sand and 
kept until spring. Trees can also be propagated by cut- 
tings, and succeed best in a moist soil. Leaves entire, 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 81 

usually quite thin ; trees with a large amount of small 
spray, more or less graceful in habit. 

Betula alba ( White Birch). — Leaves triangular, taper- 
pointed ; a small, slender tree with white bark ; wood soft ; 




Fig. 21. 

decays rapidly ; of little value ; common throughout the 
North in poor soils. The catkins of the B. alba as they ap- 
pear the first season are shown in fig. 21. These remain till 
the second year, when the blossom and seed are produced. 
Betula paptracea {Paper Birch., Canoe Birch). — 
Leaves heart-shaped, somewhat wedge-shaped, pointed; 
a large tree with fine-grained wood ; bark very tough ; 
formerly used by the Lidians for making their canoes ; 
common in the more Northern States and Canada. 

4* 



82 THE FOREST TEEE CULTTJRIST. 

Betula nigra {Med Sirch, Ulach Birch). — Leaves 
broadly ovate, sliglitly pointed at both ends ; downy un- 
derneatli while young ; a large tree Avith reddish-brown 
bark ; wood fine-grained, compact, and heavy ; succeeds 
best in deep alluvial soils ; New- England to Florida. 

Betula excelsa {Telloio JBirch). — Leaves ovate, or ob- 
long ovate, pointed, irregularly and doubly serrate ; tree 
forty to sixty feet high, with yellowish-white bark ; young 
twigs slightly aromatic ; wood of little value ; Maine, 
Northern Michigan, and westward. 

Betula le^^ta (jSiceet Black Birch). — Leaves oblong, 
ovate, finely serrate ; medium to large size ; tree with 
dark-colored bark ; Avood fine-grained, dark reddish color ; 
bark on young branches aromatic ; mountains of Georgia, 
north and eastward. 

Castakea. ( Chestnut.) 

This well-known nut-bearing tree is worthy of the 
attention of every land-OAvner in the country. It does 
not succeed equally well upon all kinds of soil ; still, 
it is found growing over such a wide range of coun- 
try, that there are probably very few counties in our 
Northern, Middle, or Western States in which soil suited 
to its growth can not be found. In the extreme north- 
ern portions of Wisconsin, Michigan, and Minnesota it 
would probably fail as it does in some portions of the 
Eastern States. It appears to prefer a dry, sandy, or 
graA^elly soil to an alluvial, clayey, or very moist one. It 
will groAv very rapidly, even upon a very poor sandy soil. 
Rocky hillsides, where soil can be found sufficient to start 



DECIDUOUS TKEES. 83 

it, may be covei-ecl with this valuable tree. Its nuts always 
command a large price ; and the past season (1865), |9 00 
per bushel were paid in New York city for hundreds of 
bushels. I believe the time is not far distant when this 
tree will be j^lanted in large numbers upon land that 
is now considered almost worthless ; and one crop of the 
nuts from a twenty-year-old tree will more than pay for 
the original cost of the land and of planting them. It re- 
quires quite a large tree to produce a bushel of nuts, but 
not a very old one. If we allow forty feet square to each 
tree, we can then plant twenty-seven to the acre ; and al- 
lowing only a half bushel to the tree, and five dollars per 
bushel, we have a return far above that of thousands and 
tens of thousands of aci*es of cultivated land in the East- 
ern or Western States, That it will require several years 
for the trees to grow to a bearing size is quite true ; but 
we are now supposing that they are to occupy land that 
now brings no return ; if so, there is no loss in waiting, 
except the interest on the small amount invested in the 
trees and labor of planting. If we plant it uj^on land that 
is cultivatable for other crops, we should plant thickly at 
first, and then thin out as they become large enough for 
use. So soon as the young trees are four to six inches in 
diameter, they are wanted for grape trellises, stakes, rails, 
posts, fuel, and a thousand other purposes for which wood 
is indispensable. There are other kinds of timber which 
may be more durable than chestnut, but I know of none 
that is more rapidly and easily grown. When the tree 
becomes large, it is even more valuable then when young. 
We have only to look into the Avork-shop of the cabinet- 



84 THE FOBEST TEEE CULTUKIST. 

maker to see it converted into many useful articles of fur- 
niture. We can scarcely go into a railroad car, steam- 
boat, or hotel without seeing chestnut timber employed in 
some article of furniture or portion of the structure. 
Where toughness is required, or a very fine polish, chest- 
nut will not answer, for it is naturally brittle and very 
coarse-grained ; still, it will receive a polish suiRcient for 
ordinary work, and it is now much used for finishing 
rooms ; and Avhen in connection with black walnut it pro- 
duces a fine efiect. 

When a Chestnut tree is cut down, sprouts will almost 
invariably spring up from the old stump and grow with 
surprising i-apidity (especially if the tree is cut in winter), 
so that a forest once planted is for all time. If these sprouts 
are thimied out when small, so as not to crowd, they will 
grow from four to six inches in diameter and thirty feet high 
in ten years. The Chestnut is also a very ornamental tree, 
with either a broad, oval, or cone-shaped head. It is varia- 
ble in form : sometimes it will branch low and form a round, 
globular-shaped head, such as shown in fig. 22, which is 




Fig. 23. 

an exact representation of a tree growing near Paterson, 
N". J. The leaves are from five to seven inches Ions; and 



DECIDUOUS TREES 



85 




tAvo to three broad, tapering to both ends and coarsely 
serrated. Fig. 23 shows a chestnut leaf about one half 

the natural size. Fertile flow- 
ers, very small in clusters, in- 
closed in a scaly involucre 
which sur- 
rounds the 
nuts. The 
sterile flow- 
ers are in 
long, naked 
catkins in 
clusters. The ^ig. ai. 

nut proper is inclosed in a thin 
horn-like covering. Fig. 24 
shows one of the common 
cliestnuts, natural size. 

Castanea vesca. — The 
Spanish Chestnut is a variety 
of this species. It is not quite 
as hardy as our American va- 
riety, but will grow as far 
north as Central ~New York. 
The nuts are much larger than 
our native kind, but not as 
sweet. 
The Chestnut is readily graft- 
ed or budded. The annular budding is often employed, 
but I have never found any difficulty in grafting thera 
with the ordinary cleft graft. 




FiR. 23. 



86 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. 

Castanea vvy!iu.A {CMnqttapin) . — This is a small-grow- 
ing sj^ecics of the Chestnut fonnd chiefly at the South, but 
occasionally as far north as Pennsylvania. It seldom 
grows more than twenty or thirty feet in height ; nut quite 
small, sweet, solitary, and not in threes, as in the other 
S])ecies. When worked on the stronger-growing kind, it 
grows more rapidly than on its own roots. 

Our common American Chestnut, C. vesca, was at one 
time sujDposed to be a distinct species, but Mr. Gray now 
classes the European and American, with the exception of 
C. pumila, as one sjjecies. There are a number of foreign 
varieties to which particular names have been applied, 
sucli as Golden of Syria, Marie de Lyon, Chataigne Exalade, 
Downton, Prolific, and some twenty others ; but the real 
distinction between these varieties are more in name than 
in the fruit. Scarcely any two trees of our native Chest- 
nut produces nuts alike, and any number of varieties could 
be selected if it were desirable to multiply names. There 
Vv'ill probably be new and vahiable varieties produced that 
will deserve distinct names. All of the European varieties 
produce larger nuts than our native ones, but none of them 
are as good. The nuts of the foreign as well as native 
kinds can be procured of almost any seedsman. Plant in 
fall, and treat same as tlie Horse Chestnut. 

Caeya. (Hickory.) 

The Hickory is another well-known tree possessing 
many valuable qualities. Its wood has no equal for 
fuel, and it is employed in almost every branch of 
mechanics where tough timber is requii-ed. A volume 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 87 

might be filled with merely the names of the articles 
which are wholly or in part made of hickoiy. There are 
several species, some of which are to he fomid in almost 
every portion of the United States, and in almost all kinds 
of soils, high or low, wet and dry. Sand-stone regions 
have their hickories as well as the limestone, but seldom 
of the same species, all of which are more 
or less valuable. Hickory hoop-poles are 
always in demand, and command a large 
price. Plantations for this purpose, alone 
would be very valuable. For ornamental 
p^^rposes, there are few trees that excel the 
Hickory in variety and beaitty of foliage. 

The Hickories are chiefly rather coarse- 
growing trees, with very little small spray, 
the branches terminating Avith a large bud. 
Fig. 25 shows a terminal shoot of C. tomen- 
tosa as it appears in spring, before the 
leaves expand. The leaflets are situated on 
a long petiole with three terminal ones, the 
others in opposite pairs, consequently there 
is an odd number of leaflets, often variable 
in the same species. Fig. 26 shows a hick- 
Fig. 25. ory leaf with seven leaflets. The nuts are 
produced usually in clusters, inclosed in a thick leathery 
husk, which divides when ripe and allows the nut proper 
to fall out. 

Caeya oliv^^formis {Pecan-nut). — Leaflets eleven to 
fifteen, oblong lanceolate ; nut long, oval, as seen in fig. 
27, nearly smooth ; shell very thin ; kernel sweet and 



88 



THE FOKEST TliEE CULTURIST. 



good, but inclosed in a thin, ■brownish-colored, brittle sub- 
stance that is intensely bitter ; tree a slender grower, but 




Fig. 26. 

handsome ; wood not as valuable as some of the more 
Northern species ; native of Southern Illinois and south- 
ward. This species deserves to be extensively cultivated 
for its excellent nuts, which always command an almost 
exorbitant price in the Eastern cities. The past season 
the retail price in New York was eighty cents per quart. 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 89 

Carta alba {Shell-harJc or Shay-harJc Hickory) — ^Leaf- 
lets five, slightly downy on under side, obovate lanceolate, 
serratures small ; nut medium size, as shown in fig. 28 — 





Fig. 27. Fig. 28. 

sometimes large ; surface uneven, white ; shell thm ; ker- 
nel large ; an excellent, well-known tree ; grows to a large 
size ; bark rough, shell-like ; wood tough, very valuable ; 
common in the Eastern States, and in some localities at the 
Northwest. 

Carta sulcata {Thick Shell-bark Hickory). — Leaflets 
seven to nine, in form like the preceding ; nut prominently 
ribbed, slightly flattened, of a yellowish color, and quite a 
thick shell ; kernel sweet and good ; common in Kentucky 
and Illinois ; tree of large growth ; wood tough and val- 
uable. 

Carta TOMENTOSA [Mocker-nut, White-heart Hickory). — 
Leaflets seven to nine, oblong, sometimes nearly lanceolate, 
slightly serrate, rough underneath ; nut globular, nearly 
smooth, sometimes slightly ribbed ; shell very thick, of a 
brownish color ; kernel small, sweet ; tree of large size, 
with a rough furrowed bark on old trees, but quite smooth 



90 THE FOREST TKEE CTJLTUEIST. 

when young. This is probably the most abundant of all 
the Hickories, being very common from New England to 
the Mississippi and westward. Its wood is tough and 
light-colored, there appearing to be very little of what is 
usually termed heart-wood, even in the largest trees. The 
nuts of this species are variable : on some trees not more 
than three fourths of an inch in diameter, while on others 
they are two inches. The tree is well suited for growing 
upon high and dry soils, as it is generally found more 
abundant in such situations than in deep, rich soils. 

Gary A iiicrocarpa [Synall-fruited Hickory). — Leaflets 
fii'e to seven, oblong lanceolate, smooth; nut nearly round, 
small, inclosed in a very thin husk ; shell also quite thin ; 
kernel sweet and large in proportion to the size of the nut. 
Tive grows to a large sisie, and resembles the preceding 
species. Found occasionally in New Jersey, but more 
common in Pennsylvania and southward. 

Carta glabra {Pig-nut). — Leaflets five to seven, ovate 
lanceolate, smooth ; nut somewhat pear-shaped, with a thin 
husk, which generally adheres to the nut after it has fallen 
from the tree; shell thick; kernel variable — sometimes 
quite sweet, in others bitter, A large tree Avith a smooth 
bark ; wood tough, light-colored ; common almost every- 
where; abundant on the dry, sandy hills of New Jersey, 
and westward. 

Carta amara [Bitter-nut, Swamp IlicJcory). — Leaflets 
seven to thirteen, oblong lanceolate, serrate, smooth ; fruit 
nearly round, but variable ; shell thin ; husk, with quite 
prominent ridges running nearly the whole length, thin ; 
kernel intensely bitter ; tree rather graceful ; branches 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 



91 



small ; terminal buds small; covered in winter with a yel- 
low pubescence. A terminal bud and small portion of a 
branch are shown in fig. 29. Common in low, 
moist soils ; wood not as valuable as that of 
the other species. 

The Hickories, as a class, are trees of com- 
paratively slow growth while young. As 
found in forests, they do not bear trans- 
planting very well, owing to their habit 
of producing a long tap-root with but few 
lateral ones ; this difficulty is in a great 
measure obviated when they are grown in 
the nursery and properly root-pruned. They 
should always be transplanted from the seed- 
bed when one year old ; and if it is intend- 
ed to transplant them when they become 
large, it is best to move them every three or 
four years, carefully root-pruning them each 
time. This frequent transplanting is beneficial 
to all trees that are to be removed when they 
have become large ; but none more imperatively demand 
it than the Hickory. 



Fig. 29. 



Cladrastis tinctoria. {Tellow Wood. Yirgilia lutea 
of Michaux.) 

Leaflets seven to eleven, oval, light-green, shining ; flow- 
ers in long racemes, Avhite, about an inch in diameter, pea- 
shaped — the racemes produced on the ends of the branches ; 
bark smooth on young trees, becoming slightly furrowed 
on old ones ; Avood yellow, hence its common name. A 



92 THE FOREST TKEE CULTUEIST. 

beautiful and graceful ornamental tree of medium size, 
blooming when quite small, of slow growth for the first 
two or three years, after which it grows quite rapidly. Its 
seeds retain their vitality for a long time, germinate readily 
if sown in the fall, covering them about an inch deep. It 
prefers a rather dry soil, but one that is rich. It is a na- 
tive of Kentucky, but not plentiful except in a few locali- 
ties ; and should be more generally known than it is at 
present. 

Fagus. {Heech.) 
The Beech is a common tree in most of the Northern 
States, It grows to a large size, often from sixty to one 
hundred feet high and from two to four feet in diameter. 
The wood is well known, being used for a variety of pur- 
poses where a fine hard surface is required. Mechanics' 
tools, such as planes, saw-handles, etc., are almost exclu- 
sively made of beech. The wood is not tough, but ex- 
tremely hard. It makes excellent fuel, and is also much 
used in some sections for building timber. The largest 
and best trees gi-ow on deep, loamy soils, but it is common 
on dry, sandy, and stony ones, on which it seldom grows to 
any considerable size. The roots spread very Avidely, and 
keep near the surface, as every one who has cleared oif 
beech lands well knows. The Beech is not a slow grow- 
er; still, it will require many years for the trees to be- 
come of an available size for fuel or timber, although the 
young trees may be used for hoop-poles. It is sometimes 
employed for hedges and screens, for which purpose it is 
most excellent, although it should not be planted where 
cattle can get to it, as they are very fond of its leaves. 



DECIDUOUS TKEES. 



93 



The Beech has many excellent qualities, and although 
it is not one of most profitable kinds to grow for timber, 
still any one who contemplates planting forest trees on a 




Fig. 30. 



large scale should not overlook it. There is but one clearly 
defined native species described by Dr. Gray, although all 
botanists prior to him have supposed there Avere several. 
Fagus fekuginea {Med JBeech^ White JBeech^ etc. — 



94 



THE FOREST TKEE CULTUKIST. 



Leaves entire, oblong ovate — see fig. 30 — coarsely serrate 
or toothed, deep green, shining as they become fully de- 
veloped ; seed triangular, produced in pairs inclosed in a 
rough, hard husk ; kernel sweet and delicious, an excellent 
nut ; tree variable in size ; bark smooth, light-colored ; 




Fig. 31. 



naturally of graceful habit, producing an abundance 
of light spray with ta23er terminal buds. Fig. 31 shows 
a small branch (natural size) from a large tree. A 
fine ornamental tree, deserves a place in the smallest col- 
lection. There are several varieties of the Beech Avhich 
are quite distinct, among which are the Copper, the Pur- 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 



95 



pie, Weeping, Cut-leaved, etc. ; these are to be found in the 
larger nurseries. They are propagated eitlier by layer- 
ing, or grafting or biidding on the common variety. In 
grafting, it is better to use a jjortion.of the two-year-old 
wood for the cion than to have it all of one-year-old. The 
nuts of the common Beech ripen in the fall, and should 
Ibe treated the same as the Chestnut. 



Fkaxhstus. {Ash.) 

There are several native species of the Ash, Avhich, like 
the Hickories, are all worthy of cultivation. The wood 
is extensively used for all the different agricultiiral imple- 
ments. Our reapers and mowers, plows, harrows, hoe and 
rake handles are, in great pait, made of Ash. European 
farmers prize American-manufactured agricultural imple- 
ments more than they do liome-made of the same patterns, 
simply because we use better timber 
than they possess, and that timber is 
chiefly White Ash, 

The Ash has what is termed a pin- 
nate leaf, that is, divided into several 
small leaflets on a petiole. There is 
a great variety of pinnate leaves ; the 
Locust is a well-known example of this 
form. Fig. 32 shows a leaf-stalk of the 
Locust with seventeen leaflets ; in some 
kinds the number of leaflets is even, 
as we have sliown, in others odd. In 
the leaves of the Ash there is always Fig. 32. 

an odd number of leaflets, because there is a terminal one, 




96 THE FOKE8T TREE CULTUEIST. 

and the others are in pairs, situated on opposite sides of 
the petiole or leaf-stalk. The leaflets shown in fig. 32 are 
all of the same size and shape ; but in other forms of pin- 
nated leaves the leaJflets are variable, both in size and form. 

Feaxinus Ameeicajsta ( White Ash). — Leaflets seven to 
nine, ovate or oblong pointed ; young branches smooth ; 
seeds produced in long, slender panicles, winged, or what 
is called key fruits ; bark on old trees rough, deeply furrow- 
ed ; tree of large size ; wood very white, except the heart- 
wood in old trees ; seeds ripen in autumn ; should be sown 
soon a,t\er being gathered. It requires a moist, deep soil, 
in Avhich it will grow very rapidly. It is a noble tree, and 
one of the most valuable ; is also very ornamental, forming 
a large round head Avhen grown as a single specimen. 
This species deserves the special attention of those wiio are 
growing trees for their timber ; common in most of the 
Eastern States, but rather scarce at the West. 

Feaxinus pubescens {Hed Ash). — Leaflets seven to 
nine, oblong lanceolate, somewhat pubescent on the under 
side ; not as large a tree as the preceding, and the timber 
inferior ; native of the same localities. 

Fraxinus veedis ( Green Ash). — Leaflets five to nine, 
oblong lanceolate ; upper ones serrate, deep green ; tree of 
medium size ; wood valuable ; common in low grounds 
near sti'eams throughout the Northern States. 

Fraxinus sambucifolia {Black Ash, Water Ash.) — • 
Leaflets seven to eleven, oblong lanceolate-pointed ; seeds 
winged all around ; tree a tall and slender growei-, coarse- 
grained ; and as it readily separates into thin layers it is 
much used for making baskets ; common in low grounds in 



DECIDTJOIJS TKEES. 97 

the Northern States ; very plentiful in Central New York. 
Valuable for growing in low, wet soils. 

Fraxinus quadeaxgulata {Blue Ash). — Leaflets seven 
to nine, with very short stalks, oblong ovate ; young 
branches nearly square, hence the specific name ; fruit an 
inch and a half long and three eighths of an inch wide ; a 
large tree, producing very valuable timber ; grovv^s in dry 
uplands ; common in Ohio and to the Southwest. 

Feaxintjs platycaepa [Carolina Water Ash). — Leaflets 
five to seven, ovato, slightly pointed at both ends ; seeds 
W'ith broad wings, smaller than the preceding ; a medium- 
sized tree, growing in wet soils at the South. 

All the difierent species of Ash grow readily from seeds 
and produce an abundance of fibrous roots the first season ; 
consequently they are easily transplanted, even when they 
become of considerable size. There are several foreign 
sj)ecies and varieties, many of which are cultivated as or- 
namental trees. These are readily worked on the more 
common ones. They may be budded or grafted, always 
using the free-growing sorts for stocks. The native spe- 
cies which deserve the most attention as timber trees are 
— F. alba and F. quadrangulata for high and dry situa- 
tions ; and the F. sambucifolia for low, wet soils. 

Gleditschia. {Honey Locust.) 

The Honey Locust has been much extolled as a hedge- 
plant, and quite extensively planted in some sections for 
that purpose. It is doubtful if it will ever become popular 
for this purpose as it is naturally a large tree, consequently 
requiring severe pruning to keep it in check. 

5 



98 THE FOKEST TREE CDLTURIST. 

There are many other plants better suited for hedges, 
and which do not produce such enormous thorns. If 
ever there was a tree that ought to be proscribed and ex- 
terminated, I believe this to be one. The thorns on old 
trees are often six to ten inches long, and so hard and 
sharp, that the man or beast that approaches them is in 
danger of being mortally wounded. Every little clipping 
from a hedge must be carefully picked up, or there is dan- 
ger of some animal stepping on it and having its feet 
pierced by these natural bayonets. 

The tree is quite ornamental, having beautiful deep- 
green pinnate leaves, Avhich give it a very graceful appear- 
ance. The seeds are produced in long pea-shaped pods, 
and are ripe in autumn, and if sown at that time will grow 
quite readily. They will also retain their vitality for many 
years if placed in a dry place ; but their tough, horn-like 
covering will become so hard in time as to be almost im- 
pervious to moisture, consequently old seeds require soak- 
ing in Avarm water before sowing. A good way is to pour 
boiling water on them, and let it remain whei'e it will 
keep warm, but not hot, until the seeds swell. There are 
but two native species. 

Gleditschia tricaxthos {TJiree-thorned Acacia). — Leaf- 
lets lanceolate oblong, slightly serrate, deep green, smooth ; 
pods a foot or more in length, usually twisted, with a sweet 
pulp 4)etween the seeds ; tree of medium size, with a spread- 
ing open head ; common in Pennsylvania and westward. 
There are cultivated varieties of this species without thorns. 

Gleditschia mon-osperma {Water Locust). — Leaflets 
ovate ; pods small, containing one seed ; thorns simple ; 



DECIDUOUS TEEES, 99 

tree of small growth ; native of Southern States, found 
chiefly in swarnps. 

Gtmnocladus Canadensis. {Kentucky Coffee^ 

Leaflets seven to thirteen, ovate, borne on a leaf-stalk 
two to three feet in length ; seeds about one half inch in 
diameter, produced in a pod of from five to ten inches 
long ; ripe in autumn ; may be sown so soon as ripe, or be 
kept until spring. I have succeeded best by keeping them 
in a cool cellar until spring, then planting, covering about 
an inch deep. It is a tall- growing tree, with large 
branches. Its appearance in winter is rather coarse, but 
when in full leaf it is stately and highly ornamental. It 
grows rapidly, and the wood is said to be valuable. It is 
but little known at the East as a timber tree, althoiTgh the 
young trees are found in all of the principal nurseries. It 
is a native of Ohio and of the Southwest. 

JUGLANS CINEREA. [Buttemut) 

Leaflets fifteen to nineteen, oblong lanceolate, rounded 
at the base, variaBle, not always directly opposite, as shown 
in fig. 32, page 95 ; petioles and small branches downy, 
with clammy hairs ; fruit oblong, inclosed in a clammy 
brittle covering ; nut deejjly furrowed, with sharj) point. 
Fig. 33 shows a nut of natural size, with the outside 
coA^ering partially removed ; kernel sweet, rich, and very 
oily. The Butternut seldom becomes a very large tree, 
although occasionally one will be found sixty to seventy 
feet high and two to three feet in diameter. Its bark is 
smooth until the tree becomes very old, then it is slightly 



100 THE FOEEST TKEE CULTUEIST. 

furrowed. The wood is coarse-grained, of a light-brown 
color, and is much used in cabinet-work. Its nuts ripen 




Fig. 33. 

in autumn, and should be planted at that time. It is com- 
mon in all the Northern States, and thrives best in moist, 
rich soils. 

It would scarcely be worth the troubl* to plant the But- 
ternut for its timber, but every farm should have a few to 
produce nuts. Many of ns can loot back to the time in 
our boyhood when the cracking of butternuts and hickory 
nuts was the main feature in our evening enjoyments. 
Farmers, remember that a few Butternut trees may cause 
your sons and daughters to send a thought or a blessing 
back to the old homestead when far away and surrounded 
by the cares and anxieties which we all experience in our 
journey thorough life. 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 101 

JUGLANS XIGRA. {Blcick Wcilnut.) 

Leaflets eleven to twenty-one, ovate lanceolate, slightly 
heart-shaped at the base ; fruit nearly round, rough, not 
clammy ; nut furrowed, nearly black. Fig. 34 shows its 
natural size, with outside covering removed ; kernel sweet, 




Fig. u. 

with a stKong flavor, much admired by some — to others it is 
quite disagreeable. It is a much more rapid-growing and 
larger tree than the Butternut. The bark on the young as 
well as old trees is dark-colored, and on large branches 
and stems very rough and deeply furrowed. Its wood is 
dark purplish brown, becoming almost black with age, 
and fine-grained, and may be highly polished ; is much 
used for cabinet-work and for finishing houses. It is the 
darkest and richest colored of any of our native woods, 
and always in great demand. It does not require a very 
large tree to make a sufficient amount of lumber to bring 
a hundred dollars in Ncav York. It is not very common 
in the Eastern States, but plentiful at the West. I have 
seen many a fiirra in Soutliern Illinois which was mainly 
fenced with black-walnut rails. It is probably not more 
than twenty years since these rails were cut, and there 



102 THE FOEEST TEEE CULTUEIST. 

is little doubt that if the trees from which they were made 
had been allowed to remain until this time, one hundred 
of them would have been Avorth more than the same num- 
ber ot acres of the cultivated land on which they formerly 
stood. This is but one instance among the many thou- 
sands where, to use an old adage, the goose that laid the 
fxolden ecrar has been killed. 

The Black Walnut grows rapidly in good rich, soils. It 
should have plenty of room, as it has a wide-spreading and 
rather open head, with coarse, stout branches. It comes 
into bearing, like the Butternut, when quite young, pro- 
ducing nuts in abundance. Plant the nuts in autumn, and 
transplant when one year old. 

The Juglans regia^ or English Walnut — sometimes called 
Madeira nut, etc. — is a species of this genus. The-tree very 
much resembles the Butternut, and one unacquainted with 
it would think it identical. The nuts, however, as they ap- 
pear on the tree, are more like those of the Black Walnut. 
It is not quite so hardy as our native species ; still, young 
trees seem to thrive as far north as Central New York ; 
but I am not aware that any trees so far north have borne 
fruit. About New York city there are large trees that 
have borne for several years. The nut is well known in 
our markets, as they are annually imported in large quan- 
tities. Large plantations should be made of this tree in 
the Middle States, where it will thrive, and the nuts will 
pay well for growing. It is certainly poor policy to be 
constantly importing an article which we can produce with 
profit ourselves. We j)0ssess all the facilities — a suitable 
climate, abundance of land, and men, women, and children 



DECIDUOUS TEEES. 103 

in our large cities who should be set to work at growing 
the young trees upon a large scale, instead of remaining as 
they now do, crowded in unwholesome tenement-houses, 
and doing nothing that benefits themselves or the country. 

Larix Ameeicaka. {Larch, Tamarack^ Hackmatack?) 

The Larch is classed by botanists among the Coniferae 
or cone-bearing trees, which are chiefly evergreen ; but as 
this sheds its leaves in autumn, I have placed it here among 
the deciduous trees. The leaves are very small and thread- 
like, resembling some of the Pines. Fisj. 35 shows two 




Fig. 35. 

clusters of the leaves, natural size ; seeds are borne in 
small ovoid cones ; ripe in autumn. They should be treat- 
ed the same as evergreen tree seeds — L e., sown in a half 
shady situation or in frames ; tree a tall, slender grower ; 
wood valuable, where light straight timber is required. It 
is also valuable for fuel, but burns rapidly. The trees 
should always be cut in winter or early spring and tlie 
bark taken off; unless this is done, it will decay very 
rapidly. Grows naturally in low grounds, in neai'ly all of 
the ISTorthej-u States as well as in the Canadas. 



104 THE FOKEST TREE CULTUEIST. 

The European Larch is a much more valuable tree, and 
should be planted in preference to the native species, as it 
thrives on dry soil and grows to a larger size, and the tim- 
ber is much better. A volume might be filled with ac- 
counts of the many plantations which have been made of 
the English or Scotch Larch. Thousands and tens of 
thousands of acres liave been and are still being planted 
in Scotland and other portions of Great Britain with this 
tree. These plantations have proved to be valuable in- 
vestments, and in many cases — in fact, we might say in 
most of them — land that was of no value for ordinary 
fanning lias been used for this purpose, 

Tliousands of acres are now lying waste near our sea- 
board cities on which Larch would grow rapidly, and 
every tree is, and ever will be, wanted in every seaport. 
The Larch makes excellent spiles for docks, or for the 
foundations of buildings which are built in low, wet 
grounds. That it will last for ages when covered with 
water oi- driven in wet ground we have abundant proof. 
Lai'ch spiles have been taken up in Europe where it is pos- 
itively known that they were driven more than a thousand 
years ago, and yet they were sound and uninjured. Who 
will be the first to make a j^lantation of Scotch Larch on 
the barrens of Long Island or New Jersey ? The seeds 
can be obtained of any of our seedsmen, and in almost 
any quantity, if the order for them is given a few months 
in advance of the time they are wanted. 

I have noticed the Larch at length, and more particu- 
larly for the purpose of calling the attention of those who 
own large tracts of the sandy soils of our Eastern States 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 



105 



than for Western men, as there is more demand for it liere 
than at the West ; besides, we have such an abundance of 
land on which very few other varieties would grow rapid- 
ly enough to be as profitable as this. It should also be 
remembered that a plantation of Larch Avould improve the 
land instead of impoverishing it, as the annual crop of 
leaves deposits more nutriment than the tree takes up, 
a fact well known in countries where this tree is exten- 
sively cultivated. 

LiRiODENDEOx TuLiPiFERA. {TuUp-tTee Whitewoocl) 

Leaves smooth, on slender petioles, partially three-lobed, 
the middle one appearing as though cut ofi"; flowers about 
two inches broad, bell-shaped, greenish yellow, marked 
with orange; seeds winged, in a large cone- shape cluster, 
which falls apart in autumn. Fig. 36 shows a 
single seed as it appears when separated from the 
mass. It blooms in May and June, and the seeds 
ripen in late summer or early autumn, and should 
be sown as soon as ripe in good, moderately dry 
soil. Thsy may remain in the seed-bed two years, 
if desirable, but should receive a slight protection 
the first winter ; tree of large size, sometimes one rig. 36. 
hundred and thirty feet high, with a very straight stem ; 
wood light color, greenish-white, soft and light, not hard 
enough to receive a polish. It is much used in cabinet- 
work, and for making panels for carriages, and for any in- 
side work where toughness or a hard surface is not required. 
There is perhaps no native wood that will shrink more in 
seasoning than whitewood, for it not only shrinks side- 



106 THE FOEEST TREE CDLTURIST. 

ways, but endways as well ; but when once thoroughly 
seasoned, it remains fixed, and does not warp or twist like 
many of the hard and tough kinds of wood. There is also 
much diiference in character of the wood coming from dif- 
ferent sections of the country, and mechanics who are con- 
versant Avith the various kinds and localities will readily 
tell whether specimens came from the West or East. The 
latter is of a light greenish color, grain not so smooth and 
soft, and sometimes rather tough. To produce good tim- 
ber, the soil should be deep and rich, and on such the 
trees will grow very rajjidly. The wood is little used, ex- 
cept for the purposes mentioned above, consequently it is 
only large trees that will be of much value. It is one of 
the most beautiful ornamental trees we possess, growing in 
a conical form, and producing an abundance of its beauti- 
ful tulip-shaj)ed flowers in spring. The roots are soft and 
sponge-like, and it requires great care in removing to 
insure success. Frequent transplanting in the nursery is 
the best method for preparing the trees for future removal. 

LiQuiDAMBER Styraciflua. {Swcet Glim — Bilsted.) 

Leaves with five to seven lobes, somewhat star-shaped, 
lobes slightly serrate-, deep shining green in summer, be- 
coming a dark brown or crimson in autumn ; young 
branches light gray, with prominent cork-like ridges ; bark 
on old trees furrowed ; seed-vessel round, nut-like, veiy 
roirgh, pendulous ; seeds small-winged, mostly abortive, 
there being few perfect seeds, generally not more than 
three or foui- in each catkin or head ; a large and beautiful 
tree, more abundant near the Atlantic coast than west- 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 107 

ward. It grows very straight, tapering gradually from 
the base upward. The wood is fine-grained, and when 
seasoned is split with difficulty ; it has some valuable qual- 
ities, but not enough to be worthy of general cultivation ; 
when small, it is easily transplanted, but as it becomes 
large it is quite difficult to make it live, even when moved 
with much care. 

Magis^olia. 

The Magnolias are all more or less valued for their beau- 
tiful foliage and flowers. Few if any of them offi3r much 
inducement to one who wishes to grow trees for timber 
only, and the whole of this genus more properly belongs 
to the ornamental than to the useful. 

Magnolia acumii^ata [Cucumber Tree). — Leaves oval, 
pointed, six to ten inches long, downy beneath ; flowers 
three to four inches in diameter, dull green tinged with 
yellow ; fruit two to three inches long, cone-shaped, seeds 
imbedded in the outer surface. This is the largest of the 
Magnolias, growing seventy feet high ; wood soft and fine- 
grained, resembling the White wood. It is used in some 
sections for making wooden bowls, trays, etc. ; quite plen- 
tiful in the southern counties of Western New York, Ohio, 
and Pennsjdvania. 

Magnolia glauca {Swamp Magnolia., Sxceet Bay, etc). 
— Leaves oval, shining above and white beneath ; flowers 
white, two to three inches in diameter, very fragrant ; 
fruit oval, one inch and a half long ; a large shrub, very 
ornamental ; common from New York to Florida, chiefly 
near the coast. 

Magnolia maoropiitlla {Great-leaved Majjiolia). — 



108 " THE FOREST TEEE CULTURIST. 

Leaves in cluster at the ends of the branches, oblong 
obovate, soft, whitish downy beneath, two to three feet 
long ; flowers white, large, nearly a foot broad ; fruit 
ovate, tAvo to three inches in diameter ; young branches 
large and covered with a white pubescence ; tree of me- 
dium size, very irregular in groAvth ; Avood brittle, the 
branches easily broken by the Avind ; a noble-looking tree ; 
native of Kentucky and southward, but hardy as far north 
as 'New York. 

Magnolia umbrella (Magnolia ty^ipetela, Utnbrella- 
tret). — Leaves one to tAvo feet long, ovate-oblong, doAvny 
beneath Avhen young ; floAvers Avhite, six to eight inches 
in diameter ; fruit oblong, four to six inches long, rose 
color ; young branches smooth, with very long terminal 
bud ; tree thirty to forty feet high, spreading open head ; 
a very handsome ornamental tree ; found in same localities 
as M. acuminata. 

Magnolia Fraseri [Ear-leaved Umbrella-tree). — Leaves 
oblong ovate, eight to twelve inches long, somewhat heart- 
shaped at the base, smooth on both sides ; flowers white, 
six inches broad ; fruit oblong, smaller than in M, um- 
brella ; the branches are also more slender ; tree thirty to 
forty feet high ; Tennessee and southAvard, but not very 
plentiful anyAvhere. 

Magnolia cokdata {Yellow Cucumher-tree). — Leaves 
oval, slightly heart-shaped, doAvny beneath ; flowers yel- 
loAv, five inches broad ; a Avide-spreading tree with com- 
paratively slender branches ; common in Georgia and 
South Carolina ; quite hardy in the latitude of NeAV York. 

IMagnolia grandiflora {Great Laurel Magnolia.— 



DECIDUOUS TEEES. 109 

Leaves oblong obovate, smooth, glossy above and dull 
white beneath, evergreen ; flowers white, very fragrant ; 
fruit three to four inches long; native of the South; not 
hardy north of Virginia, although occasionally a tree will 
survive for a few years as far north as New York. 

There are several foreign species and varieties of Mag- 
nolias that are worthy of being cultivated in every garden. 
These, like the M. conspicua, M. Soulangiana, M. purjDurea, 
etc., bloom before their leaves appear, which gives the 
tree a most magnificent aj)pearance. These foreign species 
do not, as a class, grow as rapidly as the native ones, but 
they bloom Avhen quite small. To give them increased 
vigor they should be budded on the Magnolia acuminata. 

All the Magnolias may be propagated by layers, 
although plants grown in this manner are not equal to 
those grown from seeds or by budding. The diiferent 
species are generally propagated fi"om seeds ; these are 
gathered so soon as they can be seen in the opening 
fruit or cones, which should then be spread out where 
they will dry sufficiently to allow the seeds to be shaken 
or picked out by hand. Then mix the seeds with sand, 
and put away in a cool cellar until spring, or sow im- 
mediately in a light sandy or loamy soil. The seeds 
will soon lose their vitality if allowed to become dry or 
remain in the fruit Avhere they will becom.2 heated. Mice 
are very fond of Magnolia seed, and considerable care is 
often necessary to prevent them frori getting a taste. 
The seedlings may be allowed to remain in the seed-bed 
for two years before being transplanted,, as they grow 
rather slowly when young ; besides, it is best to protect 



110 THE FOREST TKEE CULTUKIST. 

them the first winter, if no longer, and it is more conve- 
nient to clo this while in the seed-bed than after being 
planted in the nursery. 

!N"tssa. ( Tiqoelo.) 

The Nyssas are trees of jDcculiar growth, the branches 
growing almost at right angles from the main stem, the 
upper ones often reaching as far outward as the lower, 
giving the tree a flattened appearance, as though it had 
met some obstruction which had prevented it from grow- 
ing any higher. The grain of the wood runs in all direc- 
tions, forming an inti'icate indivisible mass. This peculiar- 
ity of sti-ucture is its only value, as it is naturally soft and 
spongy. There are but two native species, although some 
botanists have divided the genus into several. 

Kyssa multiflorxV [Tupelo, Pepperidge, Soicr-gum). — 
Leaves oval, slightly pointed, pubescent when young, deep 
green, becoming dark bi'own or bright crimson in autumn ; 
flowers in clusters, small, inconspicuous ; fruit oval, bluish 
black, about one half inch long, ripe in autumn, should be 
sown soon after being gathered ; tree medium to large ; 
Avood yellowish white, much used for wagon hubs, rollers, 
etc, ; common in low, wet soils in all the Middle and 
Southern States ; a slow grower, and hardly w^orthy of 
cultivation, except as an ornamental tree. 

Nyssa unifloea {Large Tupelo). — Leaves oblong, some- 
times slightly heart-shai^ed at the base, downy when 
young; fertile flo Wei's, solitary; fruit nearly an inch in 
length ; a large tree with soft, spongy wood ; common at 
the South, in low, w^et soils. 



DECIDUOUS TKEES. Ill 

Prunus. [Plum and Cherry.) 
This genus contains many sj)ecies, among which are the 
Wild Plums, both of the Northern and Southern States, 
besides a number of species of the Wild Cherry. Among 
them all there is but one species that grows to a sufficient 
size to be of any considerable value as a forest tree. 

Peu^tus serotina, — Leaves oblong, taper pointed, ser- 
rate, shining above ; flowers in long racemes, white ; fruit 
purplish black, sweet, slightly bitter ; tree of large size ; 
wood line-grained, much used by cabinetmakers ; common 
almost everywhere at the North • seeds ripen in summer 
and should be sown immediately, or in autumn at the 
farthest, as they are easily destroyed by drying ; tree 
grows rapidly, but requires many years to become of suf- 
ficient size to be of much value except for fuel, and for 
this pui-pose there are many other trees that are far better. 
The Wild Cherry is infested by the tent-worm more than 
any other tree, and its cultivation should be discoui'aged at 
the East, unless stringent laws are passed compelling every 
landowner to exterminate the worms which may now be 
seen on every Wild Cherry tree in forest and fields as well 
as on the apple-trees. 

Platanus. {Suttonwood.) 

A well-known tree of the largest size. In some parts of 
the West, hollow trees of this kind were foimd by the 
early settlers of sufficient dimensions to shelter a whole 
family and make quite a comfortable habitation for them- 
selves and stock. Very lai'ge specimens are still to be 
seen along our Western rivers, most of them being hollow, 



112 THE FOREST TKEE CULTUEIST. 

there being only a few inches of the outer portions of the 
tree remaining, the inside having decayed. 

Platanus occidentalis [Buttonwood^ Sycamore). — 
Leaves angularly sinuate-lobed or toothed ; seeds produc- 
ed in a brittly, coriaceous nutlet, containing but one seed, 
which is ripe in autumn ; the bark on old and young 
branches green, but separating in patches, leaving large 
white spots ; tree of large size ; wood fibrous, running 
in various directions and so interlaced that it can not 
be divided ; wood not considered of much value, though 
sometimes sawed into planks and timber; may be readily 
propagated by cuttings, of either one or two year old 
wood ; common throughout the Northern States. 

• 

PopuLUS. {Poplar^ 

There are a large number of species of* the Poplar, none 
of which possess any particular merit as timber trees, un- 
less it be that of rapid growth. Some of the species are 
used for ornamental trees, and have been since the days 
of the ancient Romans, when one of the species was so 
extensively planted in the streets and suburbs of Rome 
that it was called the People's tree, hence the name Pop- 
uli or Populus. All the species and varieties are readily 
grown from cuttings, either of one-year-old wood or that 
which is three or four years old. Young branches or 
suckers of eight or ten feet long may be set in rows where 
they are wanted, and if the soil is kej)t moist, they will 
take root, and in this way quite a forest or hedge may be 
produced in one or two years ; they prefer a moist soil, 
but will grow in a very dry o le. 



DECIDUOUS TKEES. 113 

PoPULUs TBEMULoiDES {AmeHcan Asjjen, Shaking Pop- 
lar^ etc.). — Leaves nearly heart-shaped, with long, slender 
stem ; the peculiar form of leaf and stem allows them to 
vibrate with the slightest breeze ; tree thirty to forty feet 
high ; common in low grounds in most of the Northern 
States. 

PopuLUs GRANDiDENTATA [Large -tootJied Aspen). — 
Leaves roundish ovate, with large tooth-like notches in the 
edges, woolly pubescent when yoixng, becoming smooth in 
summer ; tree medium to large ; wood soft and very light 
when seasoned ; Northern States and Canadas. 

PoPULus HETEROPHYLLA [Vci; loics-leaved Pojylar). — 
Leaves very similar to the last, but more variable in shape ; 
tree of rather larger growth, often sixty to seventy feet 
high ; common at the South ; rare in the more Northern 
States. 

PoPULus MONiLiFERA [Gottonwood). — Lcavcs broadly 
heart-shaped ; young branches angled ; a large tree with 
soft, light-colored wood, of very rapid growth ; its large 
foliage makes it quite a fine ornamental tree ; very common 
in all the Western States, especially in Illinois. 

PoPULUs AXGULATA {Angled Cottonwood). — Leaves 
large, broadly heart-shaped, smooth, serrate with incurved 
teeth ; young branches acutely angled, almost winged ; a 
large tree ; common at the West and Southwest. 

PopuLus BALSAMiFERA [JBalsam. Poplai\ Tacniahac). 
— Leaves ovate, gradually tapering to a point ; young 
branches round, smooth ; buds large, covered Avith a fra- 
grant resinous matter in the spring, hence its name; often 
used for medicinal purj)oses ; found only in the more 



114 THE FOREST TREE CULTUEIST. 

ISTortliern States and Canadas. There is a variety of this 
species, P. condicans, or Balm of Gilead, which is quite 
scarce in its wild state, hut common as an oi'namental 
tree. There are several foreign species cultivated in this 
country, such as the well-known Lombardy Poplar (P. dila- 
tata), and the Abele or White Poplar (P. alba), often 
called Silver Maple, as the leaves resemble the Maple in 
shape, and are covered Avith a white silky pubescence. It 
produces an immense number of suckers, consequently it 
becomes very troublesome, especially when planted on 
lawns. It grows very rapidly, and is quite ornamental ; 
but tliere are many other kinds equally as beautiful which 
do not possess that very perplexing habit of producing 
suckers. 

QuEKCus. ( OaJc.) 

This is another genus containing a large number of 
species and varieties, among which are some of our most 
valuable timber trees. It would be impossible for me to 
fully describe them without employing the peculiar lan- 
guage and phrases used by botanists, which I fear would 
be understood only by very few readers. I shall therefore 
only notice a few of the most valuable sjDCcies. The nuts 
or acorns of most of our Northern species ripen in the 
autumn of the first year ; but the evergreen oaks of the 
South, as well as some of our Northern species, do not 
come to maturity until the end of the second year. 

The forms of the leaves are variable ; some are simple, 
resembling the Chestnut — these are called Chestnut Oaks, 
while others have deeply lobed leaves ; the indentation or 
scollop is termed a sinus, hence the name, sinuate-lobe^ 



i 



DECIDUOUS TKEES. 



115 



These lobes also have different forms, being ronnd, point- 
ed, toothed, etc. The White Oak (Q. alba) has oblong, 
obtuse-lobed leaves, as shown in lig. 37, but the form of 




Fig. 37. 

the whole leaf is obovate oblong. Another prominent 
chai'acteristic, and one employed by botanists in deter- 
mining the different species, is the acorns, some being 
small, with a sharp point, and set in a shallow cup like fig. 



116 



thp: fokest tree cultueist. 



88 ; others are larger, and about half the nut inclosed in 
a cup, as in fig. 39 ; while in one species of Dwarf Oak 
the nut is almost entirely enveloped, as shown in fig. 40 




Fig. 38. Fig. 39. Fig. 40. 

Taking these and the intermediate forms, and with the as- 
sistance of the leaves, Ave are able to determine which are 
distinct species witliout examining the other characteristics 
very minutely. 

QuERCus ALBA (White Oak). — Leaves obovate oblong, 
bright green when mature, cut into three to nine moder- 
ately deep, roundish lobes, as shown in fig. 37 page 115 ; 
acorn oblong, set in a rough saucer-shaped cup, see fig. 39. 
Acorns are variable in flavor — sometimes sweet and quite 
good, in others bitter, or almost tasteless. The bark on 
young trees is rough, but not furrowed, becoming some- 
what scaly on old trees ; color grayish white ; wood light 
color, Aery tough and valuable. The White Oak is rather 
a slow grower, but the wood is so valuable that it deserves 
to be extensively planted. Take away the White Oak and 
White Ash, and American farm implements would lose 
two of the most valuable materials which enter into their 
composition. It requires a deep, rich, and dry soil to pro- 
duce timber of the best quality. 

QuEECus OBTusiLOBA (Post Oak). — Lcaves five to six 
inches long, with five to seven roundish lobes, and Avide, 



DECIDUOUS TEEES. 117 

open sinuses, pubescent beneath, petiole sliort ; acorn about 
ono lialf inch long, oval, about one third of its length 
being inclosed in the cup ; tree of medium size ; wood 
very tough, valuable ; common in poor soils, both North 
and South, 

QuERcus MACROCARPA {Mossy Cup Oo/c). — Lcaves eight 
to twelve inches long, with seven to nine deeply sinuated 
lobes, the lobes rounded, sometimes toothed, pale pubes- 
cent beneath ; acorn large, scales on the cup thick, the 
upper ones long, fringe-like. On the rich lands of the West 
the acorns grow to a very large size, and are much sought 
after in some sections for making household oraaments ; 
tree of medium size ; more plentiful at the West than 
elsewhere. 

QuEEcus Prinus {Sicamp Chestnut Oalc). — Leaves ob- 
long, or obovate oblong, coarsely toothed, smooth, shining 
above, pale pubescent beneath ; acorn about one inch long, 
CU23 rather shallow, rough, with tubercled scales ; common 
in low grounds at the South. A handsome tree, but wood 
not equal to some of our Northern species. 

A variety of this sj^ecies called Q. monticola, or Rock 
Chestnut Oak, is found in New York, Ohio, and Pennsyl- 
vania, as well as in the Southern States. It is a handsome 
tree, and the timber is valuable. Q. discolor, or Swamp 
White Oak, is also a variety of this species. Its leaves 
are more deeply sinuate-toothed than Q. Prinus. 

QuERCus Castanea {Yelloio Chestnut OaJc). — Leaves 
oblong acuminate, shai-ply toothed, very smooth above, 
slightly downy beneath, resembling the Chestnut more 
than the other species ; acorn one half to three quarters of 



118 THE FOREST TREE CCTLTUEIST. 1 

an incli long, three eighths to half an inch broad ; cup 
Avith fine scales inclosing about one third of the nut ; a 
medium-sized tree, quite handsome, and worthy of cultiva- 
tion. New England to the Mississippi and southward. 

QuERcus PRiNOiDEs {Dwcirf Chestnut Oak). — This is 
only a small shrub, not worthy of cultivation, 

QuERcus ViRE^fs {Live Oak) and Quercus cinerea 
{Upland Willow Oak) are evergreen species, natives of 
the Southern States ; not hardy at the North. 

Quercus Piiellos ( Willoio Oak). — Leaves two to four 
inches long, very narrow, tapering to both ends, resembling 
the leaves of some species of willow, smooth on both sides 
when fully grown ; acorn small ; cup shallow, merely in- 
closing the end of the hemispherical nut ; tree forty to 
sixty feet high. Southern New Jersey and westward, also 
in Florida and Alabama. The acorns of this and the next 
species do not ripen until the fall of the second year. 

Quercus ijibricaria {Shingle Oak). — Leaves lanceo- 
late oblong, acute at both ends, smooth above, slightly pu- 
bescent beneath ; acorn nearly round, small ; cup inclosing 
about one third of the nut ; tree forty to fifty feet high ; 
wood coarse-grained, much used by the early settlers at 
the West foi* shingles. 

Quercus aquatica ( Water Oak). — Leaves obovate ob- 
long or wedge-shape, smooth on both sides, partially three- 
lobed at the summit ; acorn small, set in a shallow cup ; 
tree of medium size, and found chiefly in low, wet grounds 
at the South. 

Quercus nigra {Black-Jack Oak). — Leaves very large, 
broadly wedge-shape, mostly three-lobed at the summit, 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 119 

very dark green above, shining, dull, rusty pubescent be- 
neath ; acorn short, medium size ; cup top - shape, very 
rough, inclosing one half of the nut ; bark on the branches 
and stem deeply furrowed and of a very dark color ; a 
beautiful tree when in full leaf; wood is coarse-grained, 
and not considered valuable except for fuel. It is common 
on the sandy soils of New Jersey, but is scarcely more 
than a large shrub there, while on the rich soils of Illinois 
it attains the height of forty to sixty feet. 

QuERCus TiNCTORiA [Quercitron OaJc). — Leaves obo- 
vate oblong, deeply sinuate-pinnatified, the lobes some- 
what toothed, rusty downy when young, smooth at matu- 
rity ; acorn spherical, three quarters of an inch long ; cup 
shallow ; kernel of nut extremely bitter ; a large tree with 
thick bark — the inner layer is used by dyers ; wood ji-eddish, 
coarse-grained, much used for hewn timber. It is a native 
of most of the Northern States. 

QuERCus cocciNEA {ScarUt Oak). — Leaves with long 
petiole, oval with deep, broad sinuses, with six to eight 
entire lobes, bright green on both sides ; acorn globular, 
about three quarters of an inch long ; cup inclosing about 
on'e half its length ; a large tree, with leaves becoming 
bright scarlet in autumn ; grows in high, dry, but rich 
soils ; common both North and South. 

QuEROus RUBRA [Hed Oak) — Leaves oblong with shal- 
low sinuses, slightly pubescent when young, becoming 
smooth ; acorn large, ovoid, set in a very shallow cup ; a 
large tree, with rather smooth bark until it is very old ; 
wood very coarse-grained, not considered valuable ; com- 
mon in rocky woods from Canada to Florida. 



120 



THE FOKEST TEEE CULTUEIST. 



QuERCUs PALusTRis {Pin Oak, jSpanish Oak). — Leaves 
olDlong, smooth and shining on both sides, deeply lobed or 
pinnatified, with sharp acute teeth. A leaf of this species 
is shown in fig. 41. A very handsome medium-sized tree, 




Fig. 41. 



with smooth bark and rather slender branches which grow 
at almost right angles from the stem, sometimes drooping, 
giving the tree a unique and beautiful appearance. The 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 121 

wood is of good quality, often very tough. Another pe- 
culiarity of this tree is, that the stem tapers very rapidly 
from the base, more so than in any other species with 
which I am acquainted. It succeeds best in low, moist 
soils, and is common in N"ew Jersey and westward. 

The Oaks are all easilj^ grown from seed ; all that is 
required is to gather the acorns so soon as ripe and plant 
them in good soil, covering only a half inch deep. They 
should be transplanted w^hen one year old, as they will then 
produce a large, fleshy tap-root ; but unless transplanted 
when young, they will throw out but few lateral roots, con- 
tinuing to penetrate the soil almost perpendicularly. I have 
seen tap-roots on comparatively young trees that were six 
to ten feet long. The most valuable species to be grown 
for timber are the Q. alba and Q. obtusiloba for high, dry 
soils, and. the Q. Phellos, Q. imbricaria, and Q. palustris 
for low, wet soils. 

RoBiNiA. {Locust.) 

The common Locust has probably been more extensively 
planted for its timber than any other tree in this country. 
Many acres were formerly planted on Long Island and 
New Jersey, and the remnants of these plantations are 
still to be seen in these localities. The usual practice was, 
to scatter the seeds in the original forests, leaving them to 
take root as best they could ; when they had grown to a 
few feet in height, the native trees were cut out, leaving 
the Locust. In a few years these seedling Locusts became 
large enough to be cut and sold to the ship-builders or 
used for fence-posts. The Locust of this section of the 

6 



122 THE FOREST TEEE CULTUHIST. 

country will remain sound in almost any position for an 
incredible length of time. 

A few years since I took up an old fence which was 
built nearly or quite fifty years ago, and although the 
posts wei'e not more than five inches in diameter, they ap- 
peared to be almost as sound as when first planted, 
not more than half an inch of the outer surface being 
decayed. 

Some twenty years since, the Illinois farmers had a 
mania for planting locust for hedges as well as for timber, 
but for the former purpose it proved to be a failure, and 
for the latter but little better, as it Avas found that when 
groAvn in the deep, rich prairie soils its durability was 
much inferior to that grown on the sandy soils of Long 
Island and Ncav Jersey. 

The tree is of very rapid growth, and soon becomes 
large enough for use ; but it has several faults as well as 
many good qualities. It produces seeds in great abim- 
dance, which become scattered, producing innumerable 
quantities of thorny shrubs, usually just where they are 
not wanted. It also produces a great number of suckers, 
and often at a gi'eat distance from the main stem. An- 
other most serious objection to grov.dng the Locust at the 
present time is that a species of borer attacks it in such 
numbers as to almost annihilate it in many sections of the 
country. If the ravages of the borer should cease, then 
the Locust would become one of the most profitable trees 
which could be selected, especially for the poor sandy soils 
of the Atlantic States. The seeds should be sown in 
the fall. 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 123 

RoBi]sriA PsEUDACACiA [Common Loevst). — Leaves odd, 
pinnate, with nine to seventeen oblong-ovate leaflets ; 
flowers white, in long racemes, very fragrant ; seeds pro- 
duced in a long pea-shaped pod ; young branches with 
short, stout thorns ; bark on old trees rough, deeply fur- 
rowed ; wood fine-grained, very hard, of a yellowish 
color ; tree grows fifty to sixty feet high, and is commonly 
cultivated and indigenous to Virginia and westward. 

RoBiNiA viscosA {Clammy Locust). — Leaflets eleven to 
twenty-five, oblong ; flowers white, tinged with red, in 
short crowded raceme ; young branches clammy ; tree of 
small size ; common in cultivation, also on the banks of 
streams in South Carolina and Georgia. 

RoBiNiA HispiBiA {Moss cicacici, 3foss Locust). — A 
small, crooked-growing shrub with large pink or rose- 
colored flowers — a very handsome ornamental jDlant. 
When grafted on the common Locust, it blooms more 
profusely, and it forms a more beautiful shrub then when 
grown on its own roots. 

Salix. ( Willoto.) Osier.) 

There are some twenty or more indigenous species of the 
Willow, but they are mainly small shrubs, and not worthy 
of being cultivated for their timber. There are, however, 
a few foreign species which have been so long in cultiva- 
tion here, that they have become naturalized in many sec- 
tions of the countrj' ; some of these grow to a large size, 
and are worthy of cultivation. All of the different species 
and varieties of Willow grow readily from cuttings, aiid 
they are usually propagated in this manner, except a 



124 THE FOEEST TEEE CULTUEIST. 

few of new ornamental varieties; these are grafted or 
budded on other kinds. 

Salix alba ( White Willow). — Leaves lanceolate, point- 
ed, covered with small silky hairs ; young branches gray- 
ish white ; tree a rapid grower, fifty to eighty feet high. 
The common Golden Willow is a variety of this species ; 
native of Europe, but common in cultivation and along 
the banks of streams in all of the Eastern States. The 
White- Willow mania has been quite prevalent for the last 
few years, a few nurserymen having sent out numerous 
agents to extol it as a hedge-plant. That it will grow 
rapidly and form an impenetrable hedge in a few years is 
indisputable, but that a tree which naturally grows to 
sixty feet high can be kept within the bounds usually al- 
lotted to hedges is questionable at least. It is doubtless 
worthy of cultivation for its timber, but for hedges or 
screens there are many native shrubs and trees Avhich are 
far better. 

Salix Babylojnia {Weeping Willow). — The very name 
of this tree sends our thoughts back to olden times, when 
nations destroyed nations and war was the chief employ- 
ment of man. It has been a favorite tree with all civil- 
ized nations, and there is scarcely a poet from Virgil down 
to the present time who has not woven its praises into 
verse. It is certainly a beautiful tree, and Avhen introduc 
ed sparingly among other trees, or beside a stream, pond, 
or fountain, it is not surpassed. When planted in large 
masses on grounds of limited extent, or in long, straight 
rows, as w^e often see it by the roadside, it produces any- 
thing but a pleasing effect. The Weeping Willow and 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 125 

Lonibardy Poplar are the two extremes in the great tree 
family — one is all tears ; the other, a stoic of the tallest 
kind. The following are some of the most beautiful orna- 
mental varieties — Rosemary-leaved, Ring-leaved, American 
Weeping or Fountain, Kilmarnock, and Golden Variegated. 

Taxodium. ( Cypress^ 

The Cypress is one of the few deciduous coniferous trees 
that are indigenous to the United States. It grows to a 
very large size in the Southern States, particularly in the 
rich alluvial soils adjacent to the large rivers of that sec- 
tion. There is but one species east of the Rocky Mount- 
ains. 

Taxodium distichum {^Cypress). — Leaves linear, very 
small, numerous, two ranked on a very slender stalk ; 
cones globular, about two inches long, with thick scales ; 
seeds two-angled ;. bark pale-colored, smooth ; wood light, 
but very durable ; tree grows very rapidly, with a straight 
stem. Although this tree is a native of the Southern 
States, seldom being found in quantities north of Yirignia, 
yet it is perfectly hardy as far north as New York. The 
valuable qualities of the Cypress have been in a great 
measui-e overlooked by those who require stakes in gar- 
dens, nurseries, or vineyards. Good cypress stakes can 
be grown much cheaper and at home than one could trans- 
port them ten or twenty miles, even if they cost nothing 
more ; besides, the convenience of having a supply always 
at hand when wanted is not a small item. Red cedar 
stakes, eight to ten feet long, in the vicinity of New York, 
are worth from sixty to eighty dollars per thousand ; and 



]26 THE FOREST TEEE CULTUEIST. 

cypress stakes can be grown to that size in five or six years 
from, seed, and they are ahnost as durable. Ten thousand 
cypress trees can be grown on an acre if planted in rows 
four feet apart and one foot apart in the row, and if they 
are worth but five cents each at the end of five yeai's, it 
will give us a return of five hundred dollars per acre ; and 
allowing fifty per cent, of the amount for cost of seed and 
cultivation, we then have a fair return for the use of the 
land. The Cypress is not very particular as to soil, but it 
will grow more rapidly in moist soil than in dry, but the 
wood is not so durable as when only a moderate growth 
is obtained. I have grown them successfully on high, 
dry, gravelly soils, where scarcely any other tree would 
thiive, and I am quite certain that any one can grow their 
own stakes much cheaper than they can usually buy them. 
The young trees should be cut in spring, and the bark 
taken off; then place them where they will become sea- 
soned before they are used. Seeds can be obtained very 
cheaply at the South, and occasionally from seedsmen at 
the North. Sow in the open ground, either in spring or 
fall. The young seedling makes but few lateral roots 
the first season, consequently they should be taken up in 
the fall and carefully heeled in until spring, and then 
planted in the nursery rows. 

TiLiA. {Linden.) 

Trees with large, handsome foliage and soft, light wood ; 
much used when sawed into boards in sections of the 
country where it is abundant. All the species and varie* 
ties are very ornamental, and deserve especial attention 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 127 

for that pui'ijose. Seeds ripen late in summer or early 
autumn ; should be sown immediately after being gathered. 
The seedling produces many small fibrous roots, and is 
not difficult to transplant. 

TiLiA Amekicana {American Linden^ Basswood). — 
Leaves nearly heart-shape, large, thick, deep green on 
both sides ; flowers yellowish ; fruit a small, round, woody 
nut, with long peduncle ; bark on young trees smooth, of 
a light green or gray color, becoming rough and deeply 
furrowed on old trees ; wood white, soft, and very light 
when seasoned. A very large tree, common in all the 
Northern States and as far south as the mountains of 
Georgia. The inner bark of this species is much used by 
nurserymen for tying in buds, grafts, etc., and is com- 
monly called Bass. The imported Bass mats are made 
from a species of this genus. To prepare the bark for 
use, it is strip]Ded from the trees in spring, about the 
time the leaves begin to expand, when it comes off very 
readily; it is then put into water — a running stream is 
best — and allowed to remain there until it will sejDarate 
into thin layers ; two to four weeks will usually suffice for 
this purpose ; it should then be taken out, stripped of the 
outside bark, and laid up in a dry place until w^anted for 
use. Bass strings are excellent for tying uj) vines, rasp- 
berry plants, etc. The bark of all the different sj)ecies 
may be prepared in the same manner. 

Another valuable property of the Basswood is its very 
sweet, honey-bearing flowers. Those persons who keep 
the honey-bee for pleasure or profit should certainly plant 
t]ie Basswood plentifully within reach of their bees, for 






128 THE FOREST TKEE CULTUEIST. 

there is no flower of its size which yields better houey or 
in greater abundance. In Western New York, the farm- 
ers who keep bees value their basswood honey equally 
with that of the white clover, 

TiLiA HETEEOPHYLLA ( W/dte Bcisswood). — Leavcs very 
large, six to eight inches broad, smooth and bright green 
above, silvery white beneath ; tree of more graceful habit 
than the first. There are several foreign species in culti- 
vation that are well Avorthy of attention, such as the Tilia 
Europea, T. lutca, T. laciniata, etc. The small-growing 
varieties may be budded on those of stronger growth. 

Ulmus. {Elm^ 

There is probably no tree (the Oak excepted) which has 
been more extolled than the Elm, and full well does it 
deserve the praise. Noble, graceful, ornamental, and use- 
ful, then why should it not receive the homage of all 
nations who are so fortunate as to possess it ? In Europe, 
great cities, towns, and noblemen's coxmtry seats have re- 
ceived their names from the Elm ; and in the United States 
we have at least fifty villages and post-oflices which have 
derived their name from this tree. But it is equally true 
that, with us at least, it receives more praise than patron- 
age, for a hundred are cut down to one that is planted. 
This should not be, for it deserves to be extensively culti- 
vated for ornament as well as for its valuable wood. 

The seeds ripen in spring soon after the leaves expand. 
In this vicinity (Kew York) the Elm blooms in April, and 
the seeds are ripe by the first to middle of June, and they 
are usually scattered by the wind soon after they mature. 



DECIDUOUS TREES. 129 

To secure them, they must be gathered so soon as they 
change to a brown color and the kernel becomes firm. If 
they are sown soon after being gathered, a greater portion 
of them will germinate in a few days and grow to a foot 
or more in height the first season. But a few of the seeds 
will sometimes remain in the ground without growing 
until the following spring, showing that they are not so 
fragile, and possess greater vitality than the seeds of 
the Silver and Red Maple, which ripen at the same 
time. The seeds are very small and light, and have thin 
membraneous wings that comj)letely surround them, con- 
sequently they are very widely scattered by the wind, if 
allowed to fall from the tree. 

Ul3ius fulva i^Sliiypery Elm). — Leaves ovate oblong, 
serrate, thick, rough upper surface, soft, downy beneath ; 
young branches pubescent ; flowers greenish, appearing 
before the leaves ; tree of medium size, with heart- wood 
red, rather soft and brittle ; not considered so valuable as 
the next. The inside bark is used for medicinal purposes ; 
common in low grounds both North and South. 

Ulmus Americana {White JElm, Weeping Elm). — 
Leaves obovate oblong, sharply serrate, thin, slightly pu- 
bescent underneath when young, becoming smooth ; 
branches smooth, slender, often droojDing ; flowers pur- 
plish, in clusters on a slender-drooj^ing peduncle. 

It is the largest of the native Elms, often growing to 
the height of eighty feet, with stem of six to eight feet in 
diameter ; a lofty and wide-spreading tite with a proftt- 
sion of slender drooping spray. The wood is tough, and 
much valued by carriage-makers, for cabin«t~work,. etc. 

6* 



130 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. 

The young trees of eight to twelve inches in diameter are 
extensively used for Avagon and carriage hubs, and by 
many persons are thought to be unequaled for that pur- 
pose, as the wood is fine-grained, hard, and not liable to 
check or crack open, as with many other kinds. It is well 
worthy of cultivation, both for its wood and for ornament. 
The young seedlings have an abundance of small fibrous 
roots and are easily transplanted ; common along streams 
from Canada East to Florida ; also in the Northwestern 
States. 

Ulmus eacejiosa [CorJcy White Elm). — Leaves obo- 
vate oblong, serrate, green on both sides, not pubescent ; 
young buds downy, with small hairs ; flowers in a raceme ; 
young branches sometimes Avith corky ridges ; tree of 
large size, with very tough, fine-grained wood, valuable. 
New York, Ohio, and Michigan. 

Uoius ALATA ( Winged Elm, Wahoo ) . — Leaves 
rather small, oblong lanceolate, sharply serrate, quite 
rough on upper surface, soft pubescent beneath ; flowers, 
in clusters on a slender stem; seeds oval, downy on the 
edges ; rather a small tree, with tough, fine-grained wood. 
Virginia and southward. 

Tlie Ulmus campesteis — English Elm — is also a valu- 
able tree, and considerably cultivated for ornament, be- 
sides many varieties and species which are to be found in 
the larger nurseries. 

The Elm delights in a deep, rich, and rather moist 
soil, and in such situations it will grow ' very rapidly, 
and the roots will extend to a great distance, completely 
taking possession of the soil. As there are few trees 



DEcmrous trees. 131 

that can successfully maintain their ground when com- 
peting with the Elm, it is best to give it plenty of room, 
and it Avill soon make as much shade or timber as half 
a dozen crowded specimens would produce. It is also 
best to remove them from the nursery" rows when quite 
small. If allowed to remain until they are ten feet high, 
the roots, which are very numerous, wall form an intricate 
mass, which it is veiy difficult to extract from the soil 
without seriously injuring a large portion of them. 



132 THE FOKEST TREE CULTUKIST. 

CHAPTER XI. 

SMALL DECIDUOUS TREES. 

The following list comprises the most useful and orna- 
mental varieties of native trees of small size, very few of 
which grow to more than thirty feet high. Most of them 
are desirable for ornament ; besides, they will make excel- 
lent screens, forming an almost impenetrable barrier to 
winds when planted thickly, and they are generally better 
for protection than trees of larger growth. There is also 
less danger of their being blown down by hurricanes, as 
" the storm, 



That makes the high elm couch and rends the oak, 
The humble lily spares. A thousand blows, 
That shake the lofty monarch of the forests, 
The lesser trees feel not.'' 

Alnus. {Alder.) 

There are numerous species of the Alder, but most of 
our native ones are mere shrubs, and of but little A'alue. 
Some of the larger-growing foreign species might be intro- 
duced and cultivated with profit, as they now ai'e in many 
portions of Europe. The only native species found east 
of the Rocky Mountains that deserves any notice is the 
following — 

Alnus txcana {/Speckled Alder). — Leaves very broad, 
oval, sharply serrate, sometimes toothed, downy beneath ; 
seeds produced in catkins — see fig. 42, which shows a 
cluster of its catkins : B, before they open ; A, when in 



SMALL DECIDUOUS TREES. 



133 



bloom. The catkins are formed early in spring, and re- 
main naked through the summer and following winter, 
expanding the next spring ; wood valuable for fuel ; char- 




Fig. 42. 

coal made from Alder is highly prized by manufacturers 
of gunpowder ; grows in low, wet soils on the banks of 
streams ; seeds ripen in early summer, and should be sown 
soon after being gathered. It also grows readily from cut- 
tings, which should be planted in spring. This species 
is a native of both Europe and America. 

AsiMiNA TRILOBA. {Pawpaw^ Custard Apple.) 
Leaves oblong ovate, acuminate, eight to ten inches 




134 THE FOEEST TEEE CULTHRIST. 

long, covered with a dull, rusty pubescence when young, at 
length smooth ; flowers one to two niches broad, dark red 
or purple ; fruit oblong, yellow and pulpy when ripe, edi- 
ble ; seeds large oval, flattened. Fig. 43 
shows a seed of natural size. The tree grows 
from ten to twenty feet high, very ornamental ; 
the fruit is much esteemed by many persons. 
The inside bark of this tree is much used at 
the West for strings for tying w-p vines, etc., 
F^g"^^ as it is very tough. Its seeds ripen in autumn ; 
may be planted at that time, or kept in a cool cellar until 
spring. They should be separated from the pulp soon 
after the fruit is gathered. Common in Ohio, Indiana, 
and southward. 

Asi3ii]!fA PARviFLOKA [StnaU -Jlotoered Pawpaw. — A 
Southern species of low growth ; both fruit and flowers 
much smaller than the first ; fruit somewhat pear-shaped ; 
probably not hardy at the North. The A. grandiflora and 
A. pygmea are also Southern species, found chiefly in Flor- 
ida and Southern Georgia ; not hardy in the Northern 
States. 

Aeaija spinosa. {Hercules Chib.) 
Leaves very large, bipinnately compound ; leaflets thick, 
ovate ; flowers greenish, in a large loose panicle, suc- 
ceeded by a small round berry which ripens late in sum- 
mer ; stem and branches covered with stout prickles ; 
young shoots large, not branching, more curious than 
beautiful ; may be grown from seeds or from cuttings of 
the roots ; cultivated in many gardens at the North, and 
plentiful in Virginia and to the Southwest. 



SMALL DECIDUOUS TREES. 135 

Berbeeis. {Barberry.) 

The Barberry is a shrub of medium size, and I notice it 
here merely to call the farmer's attention to one of the 
best hedge-plants we possess. It is very hardy, and is 
naturalized in many portions of the New England States, 
but probably introduced from Europe. It forms a dense 
shi'ub of from four to eight feet high, with many slender 
upright branches covered with sharp stout prickles. It 
requires but little pruning to make an almost impenetrable 
hedge. The Barberry produces few or no suckers, except 
from the main stem. Its seeds rij)en in fall, and should be 
sown in wide drills, and transplanted into hedge-rows when 
two years old, or at one year old, if desirable. 

Berberis vulgaris {Comnion Sarherry). — Leaves obo- 
vate, bristly serrate ; flowers in long drooping racemes ; 
fruit oblong, scarlet, with an agreeable acid flavor, some- 
times used for tarts ; common in cultivation. 

Berberis Cai!^adensis {American Barberry). — This is 
a smaller-growing vaiiety then the first, hardly strong 
enough for hedges. Virginia and Georgia. 

Carpinus Americats^a. {Hornbeam., Iron-wood, Blue 
Beech^ Water Beech.) 

Leaves oblong ovate, pointed, serrate ; fruit a small 
ovoid nut, ripe in autumn ; a small tree with smooth bark 
and hard, very tough wood. Common in low grounds — 
well known, 

Cercis, {Red Bud.) 
■ Small trees or shrubs blooming very early in sirring, be- 
fore the leaves expand. There are several foreign species 



13G THE FOKEST TEEE CULTUEIST. 

and varieties in cultivation, all of which are much admired, 
and none more so than the Cercis Japonica and our native 
one. 

Cercis Canadensis {lied Bud, Judas Ti^ee). — Leaves 
heart-shaped, deep green, shining ; flowers reddish purple, 
small, pea-shaped ; seeds small, in pods, ripe early in sum- 
mer, will retain their Adtality for years, but grow more 
readily if sown soon after they are gathered ; tree an irreg- 
ular straggling grower. Common in the Western States ; 
abundant in Southern Illinois. 

Celtis occidextalis. {Nettle Tree, HacJcberry.) 

Leaves ovate, taper-pointed, sharply serrate ; a small 
tree, of no particular value or beauty ; fruit dark purple, 
sweet, ripe in autumn. 

Catalpa bignonioides. {Catalpa, Catawba Tree, Cigar 
Tree, etc.) 

Leaves large, heart-shaped, downy beneath ; flowers 
bell-shaped, white, with purple spots in the throat, pro- 
duced in long racemes, showy and handsome ; seeds in 
long pods — which hang upon the tree all winter — and may 
be gathered and sown in the fall or spring ; tree an upright, 
coarse, and rapid grower ; wood brittle. Native of the 
Southwest, but common in culture at the North. 

Chionanthus Vieginica. ( White Fringe Tree.) 

Leaves oval, or oboA^ate lanceolate ; flowers in slender 
open panicles, very small but numerous, pure white ; fruit 
about one half inch long, purple, ripe in autumn. 



SMALL DECIDUOUS TKEES. 137 

There is a variety of this Avith narrow leaves, which 
blooms more profusely, and the flowers smaller but in- 
tensely white ; common in Virginia. When worked on 
the Ash, it makes a more beautiful tree, and grows more 
rapidly than on its own roots. 

CoENUs. {Dogwood.) 

A genus that contains many native species as well as 
several foreign ones that are cultivated for ornament. 
The only native species that grows large enough to be 
classed among trees is 

CoKNUs FLORIDA. {Floweving Dogwood). — Leaves 
ovate, pointed ; flowers greenish, small, inconspicuous, but 
inclosed in a large pure white involucre, which is generally 
supposed to be the flowers by those who are not acquainted 
with their structure ; fruit oval, bright red, ripe in sum- 
mer. Blooming as this tree does, in early spring, befoi'e 
the leaves expand, gives it a very showy appearance, 
rivaling the well-known Chinese Magnolia (M. conspicua) ; 
trees of twenty to thirty feet high, with fine-grained, very 
hard wood ; common in the Northern States in high, dry 
soils ; plentiful in Southern New York and New Jersey. 

CoRNUs MAscuLA is a foreign species of this genus 
which bears edible fruit. 

Crat^gus, {Hawthorn.) 

There are many species in this genus, few of which attain 
the size of trees, as they seldom grow more than twenty 
feet high. The flowers are white or pale pink, resembling 
the apple, but smaller ; fruit variable in size, sometimes 



138 THE FOKEST TREE CULTUEIST. 

not larger than a small pea, in others an inch in diameter ; 
some are of excellent flavor^ others dry and insipid ; red 
is the most common color, but there are a number of 
species with yellow fruit. 

All of the species produce more or less thorns, and 
make excellent hedges, but are exceedingly liable to be 
attacked by the apple-tree borer. Its seeds ripen in au- 
tumn, and should be sown at that time, for if they once 
get thoroughly dry they will not grow ; but they will often 
remain in the ground two years before they germinate. 

The following are probably the best for cultivation : 

CuAT^Gus COED ATA {Washington Thorn). — Leavey 
broadly ovate ; flowers small ; fruit not larger than peas ; 
bright red ; tree fifteen to thirty feet high. Virginia and 
Kentucky. 

Crataegus tomentosa {Pear Thorn). — Leaves large, 
oval, sharply toothed; flowers large ; fruit crimson, some- 
times an inch in diameter, sprightly flavor, edible ; com- 
mon in the Northern and Western States. There are sev- 
eral varieties of this species, some of which have yellow 
or yellowish-white fruit, with a very agreeable flavor. 

Ceatjegus ckus-galli ( CocJcspur Thorn). — -Leaves deep 
green, shining, very thick ; fruit bright red, small ; one 
of the handsomest native species ; tree fifteen to twenty- 
five feet high. 

The double-flowering varieties are usually budded on 
some one of our native kinds. 

DiospYEUs YiEGiNiANA. {Persimmo7i.) 
Leaves ovate oblong, nearly or quite smooth ; flowers 



SMALL DECIDUOUS TEEES. 139 

greenish yellow ; fruit usually round, but sometimes long, 
slightly jDointecl, exceedingly astringent when green, but be- 
comes soft and sweet when ripe, at which time it is general- 
1}^ deep orange yelloAV. In its more Northern limits it does 
not ripen until frost ; farther South, it matures before, con- 
sequently it does not always require cold weather to make 
it eatable, as is sometimes asserted. The persimmon is va- 
riable, like most other fruits — some trees producing much 
better s]>ecimens than others. They are usually about an 
inch in diameter ; but I have met with trees that produced 
fruit nearly two inches in length, and ripened nearly a 
month in advance of the general crop. It deserves to be 
more generally cultivated, and there is no reason why a 
really superb variety may not be produced from the native 
persimmon. The tree is quite ornamental, and grows 
twenty to thirty feet high. Native of New Jersey, and 
localities west and south. 

There are several foreign species which are sometimes 
cultivated in this country. The Diospyrus kaki — Japan 
persimmon — and Diospyrus Lotus, a native of Italy, are 
both hardy in the latitude of New York city. 

EuoNYMUs ATKOPURPUEEus. {Buming Bush, Wahoo, 
/Spindle Tree, Strawherry Tree)) 

Leaves deep green, oval oblong, somewhat pointed ; 
young branches green, partially angled on thrifty young 
sprouts ; flowers deep purple, inconspicuous ; fi-uit usually 
foui'-sided, slightly Avinged, containing several bright 
crimson seeds ; the pod, inclosing the seeds, is also crim- 
son ; very ornamental in autumn, when full of fruit ; seeds 



140 THE FOREST TREE CULTUKIST. 

will often remain in the ground two years before they ger- 
minate. Very common at the West, in low, wet soils ; 
usually cultivated for ornament. There are also several 
other native species of smaller growth, also many foreign 
species and varieties, which can be found in any of the 
larger nurseries. 

Halesia tetbapteea. {Silver-JBell Tree.) 

An exceedingly beautiful tree when in bloom ; the flow- 
ers are of the purest white, bell-shape, with a long, slender 
stem ; leaves oblong ovate, light green. Quite a tall, 
handsome shade tree can be made of it by trimming off 
the lower branches, but it usually forms a dense, conical 
shrub ; wood is exceedingly hard and fine-grained ; seed- 
pods are two to four-winged, and one to one and a half 
inches in length ; ripe in fall, when the horn-like covering 
becomes very hard, requiring a long time in the ground to 
make them germinate. They will usually start in spring 
if sowed in the fall, but sometimes remain in the ground 
until the second season ; it is a native of the South, but is 
hardy in most of the Northern States. 

MoKus eubea. {Red Mulberry.) 

Leaves usually heart-shaped on large trees, but of vari- 
ous shapes on young plants ; fruit long, from three quar- 
ters to one and a half inches, and three eighths to half an 
inch in diameter, resembling a blackberry ; very sweet, 
but sometimes brisk and vinous ; usually a small tree, 
but sometimes nearly forty feet high and one foot in 
diameter. 



SMALL DECIDUOUS TREES. 141 

The M. ALBA — White Mulberi*y of Europe — has also 
become naturalized, and found from New England to 
Illinois. 

M, A^iGRA — Black Mulberry, or English Mulberry — is 
sometimes cultivated, but is not so hardy as the native. 

Mulberry seeds grow very readily if washed from 
fruit, sowed in fall, or put aside until spring ; but 
they should not be covered too deep, as they are quite 
small. There are many varieties in cultivation : the one 
known as DoAvning's Mulberry is probably the best ; it 
is propagated by budding or grafting it upon the Mo- 
retti Mulberry, or upon some other free-growing stock. 
Some kinds grow readily from cuttings of the ripe wood 
taken off in the fall ; but others, like the Downing, are 
very difficult to propagate in this manner. 

Macluea aueantiaca. {Osage Orange.) 

This is a well-known hedge-plant, a native of Texas and 
other sections of the Southwest. The seeds are usually 
obtained from those sections, and if fresh, there is no diffi- 
culty in making them grow when planted in spring ; but 
it is always best to mix them Avith moist sand and put 
them in a warm place until they begin to sprout before 
sowing. If the seeds are good, they Avill start in a few 
days ; if not, they will become soft and rotten. By try- 
ing the seeds in this way, much labor will often be saved, as 
it is labor lost to sow unsound seeds. The Osage Orange 
seeds will keep sound for a year or two if placed under 
proper conditions ; but this is often neglected, and much 
worthless seed is sold ; and having had some experience 



142 THE FOREST TEEE CULTUKIST. 

in buying such, I give this hint to caution the reader 
not to sow poor seed even if he has been so iTufortunate 
as to purchaselt. The seed may also be sown in the fall, 
but in that case the sprouting must be dispensed with. 

Olea AMEKicAisrA. {Devil Wood, Atnerican Olive.) 

Leaves oblong lanceolate, four to six inches in length, 
smooth ; branches light color, and as they become old are 
covered with small, round, wart-like knobs ; llowei's white 
in June or July ; fruit nearly round, about three eighths 
of an inch in diameter. It is a native of the South, but 
hardy here ; tree ten to thirty feet in height ; pi-opagated 
from seeds and cuttings. 

OsTRYA ViEGiNicA. (Tron Wood, Hop Hornbeam^ 

A well-known small tree with very hard wood, much 
used by farmers for making beetles or mauls for splitting 
rails and wood ; the seeds resemble hops, and the tree is 
called the Hop-tree in some sections. The seeds are ri]3e in 
August or first of September in the more Northern States 
and should be gathered so soon as ripe, as they commence 
falling soon after and are widely scattered by the wind. 
Plant immediately, or put in sand and keep in a cool 
place. The tree sometimes grows to forty feet high, but 
usually not more than twenty-five ; a very slow grower. 

Ptelia trifoliata. {Hop Tree.) 

Quite a pretty small tree, which has been much extolled 
of late in consequence of the seeds j)0ssessing similar prop- 
erties as the common Hop. The leaves are divided into 



SMALL DECIDUOUS TREES. 143 

thi'ee lobes, and are called tri-foliate, each division being 
oval, and somewhat pointed. The tree is a rapid grower 
when young, but does not become very large, usually not 
more than twenty feet high ; seeds ripen in summer or 
early fall, and should be sown soon after ; they are what 
is called winged seeds, and the membrane entirely sur- 
rounds them. 

Pyrus coROjsrARiA. [American Crab-Apple.) 

The wild Crab-Apple is seldom cultivated for ornament, 
still it is a very handsome tree, with large rose-colored 
flowers, and well Avorthy of cultivation ; probably more 
plentiful in Wisconsin than elsewhere ; seeds ripen in au- 
tumn, and should be taken from the apple and sown at 
that time. The fruit is rather harsh and bitter, and not as 
good as many of the cultivated Siberian Crab-Apples, 
which are even more ornamental, besides having the addi- 
tional merit of being useful. 

Pyrus Americasta [American Mountain Ash). — A 
w^ell-known ornamental tree producing large clusters of 
scarlet fruit, which remain on the tree until quite late in 
the autumn. The fruit should be gathered and put in a box 
and kept moist until the pulp becomes soft so that it can 
be separated from the seeds. Wash oflf the pulp and sow 
the seeds in frames or in a half-shady situation, as the young 
plants are liable to be burned by the sun when they are 
small. It groAvs ten to twenty feet high ; is abundant in 
Northern Wisconsin and Michigan ; also common in culti- 
vation. 

There are also many European varieties, seeds of wdiich 



144 THE FOREST TBEE CULTUKIST. 

can be obtained of seedsmen. The Apple or Pear can be 
grafted on the Mountain Ash. 

Rhamnus cathaeticus. (Htcckihorn.) 
The common Buckthorn is often cultivated as a hedge- 
plant. It is a native of Europe, but has become natu- 
ralized in many parts of the country, especially in the At- 
lantic States. It makes an excellent hedge, and is not so 
thorny as to make it either difficult to trim or dangerous 
to work about, as with some other kinds of plants. If 
planted as single specimens, it will become quite a tree, 
and with its dark-gveen leaves and black berries in autumn 
it is quite an ornament. Its seeds are contained in a 
berry, and are quite hard ; should be sown in fall, or kept 
in moist sand during winter, and if where frozen, all the 
better. 

Rhamnus lajStceolate, — This species of Buckthorn is 
found chiefly at the South; and as it has no thorns, it is not 
valuable for hedges. 

R. ALNiFOLius is a ISTorthern species ; but it is only a 
small shrub. 

Sassafras officinale. {i!j'assaf)'as.) 

The Sassafras-tree is seldom planted for ornament ; but 
there is no reason why it should not be introduced for 
this purpose, as it is a very handsome tree, and probably 
would be often planted if it were not for the uncertainty 
of making it live, it being one of the most difficult trees to 
ti'ansplant that we possess, having long, soft, naked roots 
which run very deep in the soil. If it is desirable to move 



SMALL DECIDUOUS TREES. 140 

tbeaa after they become large, say eight to ten feet high, 
they must be frequently transplanted in the nursery, so as 
to cause them to make fibrous roots and few long large 
roots. The leaves are of various shapes, sometimes entire ; 
in others, one to three lobed. Young branches pale yel- 
low or yellowish green. The bark on the roots is highly 
perfumed ; wood light yellow, fine-grained, and hard ; 
would be very valuable for cabinet-work if it could be had 
of large size. It is ixsually a small tree, but occasionally 
one will be found fifty feet high with a stem one to two 
feet in diameter. It thrives well on a deep sand or loam, 
but soon perishes on a wet soil. The flowers are small, 
deep yellow, in clusters ; seeds are inclosed in a blue 
berry, ripen in autumn, and should be soAvn at that time ; 
common from Florida to Lake Ontario in high, dry soils. 

The Peesea Carolinexsis — Red Bay or Alligator Pear 
of the South — belongs to the same order of the Sassafras, 
and is a tree of similar size : also the Tetranthera sreni- 
ciilata or Pond Spice, which is found in the swamps of 
Virginia and southward. 

They all belong to the Laurel family, and are classed 
under the generic name of Laurus in many of the works 
on Botany. 

Shepheedia argentea. [Buffalo JBerry.) 

This is a small tree, a native of the far West, being 
found on the eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains, 
chiefly on the upper Missouri and its tributaries. Its leaves 
are small and long, of a gray silvery color on both sides ; 
the young branches are also of a grayish color. It is quite 

n 



146 THE FOREST TKEE CULTUEIST. 

ornamental in appearance, especially in autumn, when 
loaded Avith its small, red, currant-like fruit, which is acid 
but quite agreeable. They are highly prized by many 
persons for tarts, pies, etc. The seeds grow very readily 
if planted in autumn. It forms a dense, large shrub ; or 
if the lower branches are removed, it will grow from 
twenty to thirty feet high. 

There is a small variety — S. Canadensis — which is found 
in some parts of the N'orthern States, usually along the 
more northern portions ; but it is only a small shrub, with 
very insipid fruit. 

The Shepherdias ai-e what is termed by botanists dioe- 
cious plants — that is, one tree bears pistillate flowers and 
produces fruit ; the other staminate flowers, and bears no 
fruit, but fertilizes the pistillate flowers ; therefore to have 
trees produce fruit, it is necessary to have the two kinds 
in the same garden, and if in close proximity, all the 
better. 



EVERGREEN TREES. 147 



CHAPTER XII. 

EVEEGEEEN TREES, 

Our indigenous Evergreen trees do not offer so great 
pecuniary inducements for growing for timber as the decid- 
uous ; they grow as rapidly, and their wood is valuable, but 
it requires a longer time for the trees to attain an available 
size for the purposes for which they are chiefly used. The 
largest of our Evergreens, such as the Pine and Hemlock, 
are mainly used for boards, planks, and sawed timber, and 
for such pur]30ses large trees are required, and to grow 
these, forty or more years are requisite. The value of our 
Evergreen foi'ests is seldom or never appreciated, and Ave 
are very much inclined to attribute all the wealth, progress, 
and all that has contiibuted to place our country in its 
high and enviable position to its free institutions and lib- 
ei"al government ; and while no one would wish to depre- 
ciate these, still I am equally certain that our noble forests 
have contributed largely toward elevating us to our present 
situation. The immigrant finds cheap, rich lands and a 
patronizing government ; still, these Avould aid him but 
little toward making a home ; he must have shelter for 
himself and his family, and our forests have supplied the 
materials, and so cheaplj^, that he can not only make one 
that is comfortable, but more or less elegant. 

TVe may dig canals, build railroads, and set xip the tele- 
graph, but w^e must have wood to complete them ; and so 



14.8 THE FOREST TREE CULTUEIST. 

it is in every cleiDavtment wliicli contributes to our national 
progress. Government may grant as many charters for 
public improvements as corporations may ask for — give 
away land to the landless ; but take away our forest 
trees, and all these privileges would be worthless. 

We have one kind of Evergreen tree which has con- 
tributed more to the wealth and prosperity of the coun- 
try than all the gold and silver mines on the continent 
have or ever will. 

The White Pine has contributed much material to 
build cottages and palaces, from Maine to the Mississippi ; 
scarcely a dwelling, church, or other public or private 
building to which this tree lias not contributed more or 
less. It has been so plentiful, that its real value has not 
been appreciated. Great forests of pine have been robbed 
of its best trees, and the others wantonly destroyed ; but 
the time has now arrived when we begin to feel that there 
is a scarcity, for where only ten years since pine lumber 
brought only ten dollars per thousand feet, it now readily 
sells from forty to sixty, with no prospect of its being any 
cheaper. This great increase in price is not owing to the 
scarcity of labor, as some tell us, although it may be par- 
tially so at present ; but it is mainly owing to the difficulty 
in getting the trees from which the lumber is made. If 
the price continues to advance — and there is no reason 
why it should not — it will be but a few years before lum- 
ber will be beyond the reach of the poor, or even the 
middle classes ; and these will have to resort to the adobe 
and tile for their building materials. 

As the few become wealthy, the more costly materials 



EVEEGEEEN TEEES. 149 

are used, and brick and stone will form the bulk of all the 
better class of buildings ; but if there is no cheap inter- 
mediate material between mud and stone, then the poor 
classes will have to take the former and the rich the lat- 
ter, as is seen in most parts of Europe, where the two ex- 
tremes of rich and poor stand out prominently. 

The growth of most of our Westei'n cities, esjsecially 
along the great lakes and rivers, has been, the wonder of 
the civilized world, and deservedly so, and their progress 
has been generally attributed to the cheap and productive 
soils in their immediate vicinity, and doubtless in a great 
measure this is true ; but any one who has ever studied 
closely tlie more prominent elements that have contributed 
to make them great, has found that cheap lumber has been 
the o-rcatest amonsc them all. 

Fifteen years ago, when Milwaukie and Chicago were 
making such Avonderful strides toward becoming what they 
now arc — opulent cities, pine and hemlock lumber could 
be had there for from five to ten dollars per thousand feet. 
At such cheap rates for building materials there was no 
reason why dwellings, stores, and warehouses should not 
spring up on every hand as if by magic. The same ma- 
terials are now quadruple their former price, and those 
cities continue to grow for the reason that they have be- 
come rich and able to pay more. But they had the bene- 
fit of a cheap material at the beginning, and it is this 
start in the world Avhich cities and nations, like individ- 
iials, require, and when once obtained, it only needs a 
steady hand and ordinary talent and judicious expenditures 
to reach the highest position in wealth, , 



160 THE FOREST TEEIE CULTUEIST. 

It is certainly not among the impossibilities even for 
individuals to I'ear a pine forest to an available size in half 
a lifetime, and there are now thousands of acres of young 
pine forest from -svhich the large trees have been taken 
that it would be a profitable investment to purchase and 
give a little care until the trees were grown to maturity or 
large enough for use. Pine lands are seldom of much 
value for farming purposes, consequently they are better 
suited for growing timber than for grain. 

Tliere are probably few sections of the country where 
any of the Evergreen trees could be grown as profitably 
as some of the most valuable deciduous trees, and my 
main object at this time is to call the attention of the 
farmer to the fact, that the Evergreens are the most valu- 
able for shelter and ornament. 

Retaining their foliage during winter, they aflbrd pro- 
tection at a time when it is most needed. A belt of these 
suri'ounding a farm, or such portions as are occupied by 
the buildings, gives a cheerful, comfortable appearance, and 
both man and beast will live longer and be more happy 
under such circumstances than when exposed to every 
gale, and for six months of the twelve with nothing life- 
like to look upon. " But they shade so much ground and 
take so iiiuch strength from the soil," say many. This is 
true ; and still, the benefits they confer are much in ex- 
cess of all the damage they do. Those who would live 
the year round, and not appear to hybernate one half of it, 
but make summer perpetual, should plant Evergreens plen- 
tifully but judiciously about their dwellings and farms,- 
not so abundantly that it will make the place dark audi 



EVEEGEEEN TEEE8. 151 

gloomy, but sufficient to make it look cheerful and j)leasant. 
The biixls will remain with you later in autumn, and greet 
you earlier in spring, if you offer them a welcome and a 
few Evergreen trees for shelter. There is a great varietj- 
of form and shades of color among these trees, and they 
may be so intermingled that there will be no stiffness or 
monotony of appearance, but graceful outlines may be 
given to the most rugged and naturally ill-looking situation. 
Trees give a solid, substantial appearance to a place, 
which no building, however pretentious, can or ever will 
produce. If a man goes into the country to buy a farm, 
he will seldom call where he sees beautiful trees surround- 
ing the house and out-buildings, for he knows instinct- 
ively that such places are not for sale, for the owner gen- 
erally thinks more of his home than money ; but it is the 
bleak, uninviting farms that are usually for sale. There 
is no excuse at the present day for not having Evergreen 
trees and shrubs planted about every home in the country, 
no matter where it may be located or at what distance 
from Evergreen forests or from nurseries where such 
plants are grown for sale. Evergreen seeds can be had 
very cheaply, and our Government has wisely enacted 
postal laws that offer to every person an opportunity 
of transporting seeds to every part of the country for a 
mere nominal price. This arrangement has ah*eady been 
of immense value to the community, and we shall not be 
surprised if in its effects it proves of more real benefit to 
the country than the results of all the labors of the Agri- 
cultural Bureau of the Department of the Interior — unless 
that is conducted differently than it has been in years past 



155 



THE FOEEST TKEE CULTURIST. 



— while instead of being a tax on the Government it is a 
source of revenue. Sixteen cents a j^ound pays well, being 
about the same as charged for freight by express com- 
panies. 

A package weighing one pound can be sent by mail 
from New York to Minnesota for sixteen cents, and if that 
pound be Norway or Hemlock Spruce, it will contain at 
least 20,000 seeds — enough to grow trees sufficient to sur- 
round a half dozen ordinary farms. The oi'iginal cost of 
the seeds will probably be three dollars. Those who can 
not aifoixl to purchase even this amount, could at least buy 
a twenty-five-cent package, which would produce witli 
very little care more Evergreen trees than can now be 
found in many thickly settled towns in the Eastern as well 
as Western States. 

All of our largest dealei-s in seeds keep the most com- 
mon as well as many of the rare varieties of Evergreen 
seeds for sale, and will be happy to deliver them to you 
through the post-office free of expense of transportation. 

The most costly varieties are not always the most use- 
ful, as it is scarcity, and not their intrinsic worth, that reg- 
ulates the price of seeds, as it does that of most other com- 
modities. 

The seeds of Evergreen trees and shrubs are, as with de- 
ciduous trees, of various forms and structure. Some are 
very small, as in the Arborvitse, while others are large and 
nut-like, as in some of the Pines. Many are light, and 
have thin membraneous wings ; these are usually widely 
distributed by the winds when they fall. 

Yery fcAV of the Evergreen seeds are what are usually 



EVEKGKEEN TREES. 158 

termed delicate seeds, for though small they retahi their 
vitality for a comparatively long time. Most of them may 
be kept in any cool, dry place during winter without re- 
ceiving any apparent injury. There are some kinds Avhich 
will retain their vitality under proper conditions for twenty 
or thirty years, while others will not germinate after the 
first season. 

The germinating power of all seeds is more or less weak- 
ened by age, consequently it is always best to procui'e 
them as fresh as possible, and not delay the planting longer 
than is absolutely necessary. 

As many of the coniferous Evergreens shed their seeds 
soon after the cones are mature, it is often necessary to 
gather them before these open, and it is always best to be 
a little in advance of the time than to be too late. If the 
cones are not fully ripe in appearance, the seeds usually 
will be, or they will ripen if left in the cones after they are 
gathered. A few years since, when the great ti'ee of Cal- 
ifornia (Sequoia gigantea) was first discovered, a fiiend 
sent me a branch with some six cones attached for a cabinet 
specimen, and although it was taken from the tree before 
the cones were fully matured, they ripened sufliciently for 
growth, and I succeeded in starting two hundred of them. 
I mention this circumstance to show that it is not always 
requisite to have seeds appear to be fully ripe to insure 
their growth ; in fact, some kinds will grow more readily 
if gathered before they are ready to fall than after. Some 
kinds may be safely sown in open seed-beds; but, as a 
rule, all plants are benefited by a partial shade when young, 
especially when we have dry, hot weather in summer. It 



154 THE FOREST TEEE CDLTUKIST. 

is also necessary in tlie Nortlievn States to protect them in 
winter for the first year or two. 

TRANSPLANTING EVERGREENS. 

The best time to transplant Evergreens is still, as it 
always has been, a debatable point, and probably will con- 
tinue to be, so long as we have men in the profession who 
prefer to discuss a theory than to settle the question by 
practice. There is not a month in the year, nor a week in 
the mouth, that has not been decided to be the very best 
tinie for traiisplanting Evergreens, and probably there is 
truth in all theories, when put in practice in particular loca- 
tions and countries. But specific local rules are not gener- 
ally useful. Still, with all the elaborate essays and scientific 
acumen which have been displayed by theoretical as well as 
practical horticulturists upon this subject, nurserymen go ] 
on transplanting their thousands and tens of thousands 
every year with perfect success, regardless of that partic- 
ular time which some learned essayist has pointed out. 

The truth of the matter is, that it only requires a little 
common sense and care to perform the ojDcration with suc- 
cess ; and while the theoretical man is waiting for a proper 
time, or searching with scientific reasons for particular 
days, the practical man transplants his trees, does it icell, 
and excels the would-be scientist in the end. 

Evergreen trees have their periods of growth and rest, 
the same as others ; and every one knows that the best 
time to transplant trees is when they are dormant — 
that is, not growing. Trees are seldom completely at 
rest, for they reqnii'e moisture even during winter, for a 



EVERGKEEN TEEES. 155 

partial exhalation is going on from the buds and smaller 
branches of trees upon Avhich there are no leaves ; and this 
loss of moisture must be supplied mainly through the roots, 
consequently it becomes necessary to keep tliem in a posi- 
tion where the required amount of moisture can be ob- 
tained ; if not, the tree soon becomes dry and dead. 

E-\'ergreens probably exhale more from their leaves dur- 
ing Avinter than deciduous trees do through their buds ; 
and this is one cause why, in very cold climates, it is inju- 
dicious to move evergreens in the fall, thereby se^jarating 
the roots from the soil to which they had formed a connec- 
tion by growth; not being able to form another before 
cold weather, they perish for the want of moisture alone. 
When Everg-reens can be moved with a large ball of earth 
attached, it may be done at almost any time. In mild cli- 
mates, where the soil does not freeze deeply, the fall is a 
safe and suitable time ; but in the more Northern States 
this operation shoiild be deferred until spring, unless it is 
done early in fall so that new roots may be emitted before 
cold weather. 

Spring is the time chosen by our nurserymen for trans- 
Ijlanting Evergreens, and they usually begin so soon as the 
ground has become sufficiently dry and settled to work 
easily and continue until the trees begin to make a growth. 
Some say the later the better ; but this assertion is like 
many others, it being founded upon convenience ; and be- 
cause evergreens can be transplanted later than many 
other trees, it is usually delayed ; and to give a plausible 
excuse for the delay, it is said to be the best time. If 
planted early, the ground becomes settled about tlieir 



156 THE FOREST TEEE CULTURIST. 

roots, and new fibers will be emitted by the time they are 
required to absorb plant-food to assist in tbe growth of the 
branches. 

There is one thing about which it may be well to caution 
those who have no experience in this line, and that is, 
Evergreens of all kinds are very sensitive in regard to 
having their roots exposed to the sun and winds, much 
more so than deciduous trees when denuded of leaves. 
This is another evidence of the fact, that Evergreens do 
exhale moistiire through their leaves Avhen not making a 
growth. Never let the roots of Evergreens become dry, 
as it is almost sure death to them. If they are to be 
transported to any distance, take them from the ground 
and immediately cover their roots with some material that 
will exclude currents of air and retain moisture. Some- 
times trees will live that have had their roots considerably 
dried, but it will take years for them to regain that vigor 
they formerly possessed. We see, in traveling through the 
country, more sickly-looking Evergreens, and hear more 
complaint about making such trees live, than we do in 
almost any branch of Horticulture; and though I would 
not screen those who neglect their plants or fail to see 
that they are j^roperly planted, still I think that nursery- 
men, as a general thing, ai*e more careless of the manner in 
which they take up Evergreens and pack them, than with 
other trees ; or, in other words, they give them the same 
chance to live that they do their pear and aj)ple trees, and 
no more, while they well know that they ai-e more easily 
destroyed. I have been into large, and Avhat are called 
well-conducted nurseries, and seen a score of men digging 



EVEKGREEN TREES. 157 

up Evergreen ti'ces, in a dry, windy March or April day, 
and the earth was shaken from the roots, and then they 
were strewn over the ground and allowed to remain there 
until the packers were ready to receive them, Avhich might 
be that day, and perhaps not until the next. 

When Evergreens or other trees are transplanted from 
one's own seed-beds or nursery, a moist cloudy day can be 
chosen, and as much time given as required. If the soil is 
light, then it is best to pack it firmly around the roots so 
that too much air can not reach them ; and if the soil is 
dry, and rain does not soon follow, give the soil a good 
soaking so that it will fill all the interstices between the 
roots. But watering trees, as a general thing, is useless, 
especially if planted in the early spring. I know it is 
more or less recommended in all books on gardening ; 
but who ever saw a nurseryman watering trees ? I am 
quite certain that I have never had occasion to water a 
dozen in a constant pi-actice of nearly twenty years, and I 
believe that my success in making trees live is at least 
equal to the average. 

TRIMMING EVERGREENS. 

Evergreens seldom require pruning, except when some 
particular shape is required ; but they will bear the knife 
as well as other trees, and it will often resuscitate a feeble 
specimen where good cultui'e has failed to do it. Those 
varieties which can be taken up with a ball of earth, or 
with the roots almost entire, will need little or no prun- 
ing ; but there are other kinds which will be benefited by 
reducing their branches. Small trees are always preferable 



158 THE FOEEST TEEE CULTUKIST. 

to large ones for transplanting, and they will often outgrow 
them and become larger trees in five years than those that 
have attained a large size when transplanted. 

TEAKSPLANTING TEOM FOEESTS. 

In some portions of the country very handsome Ever- 
greens may be obtained from the forests ; and when these 
can be carefully taken up with some soil adhering to their 
roots, they will often do well. But usually trees that have 
come up from seeds, and have not been transplanted, ai*e 
difficult to make live, especially when taken from a shady 
situation and placed in an exposed one. Still, it is desir- 
able to make the trees from our forests grow in our gar- 
dens, and the chances of success will warrant the labor 
of trial ; and if small specimens are selected for the pur- 
pose, good results will often be obtained. When such 
trees are planted, it is best to cover the soil about them 
with leaves or some kind of mulch, so that it may be 
kept moist. 

EVERGREEN TREES. 
Abies. ( Spruce^ Fir. ) 

This species contains several of our most beautiful as 
well as most valuable cone-bearing trees. They are all 
hardy, and found quite common in various sections of our 
Northern States ; seeds small, with persistent wings ; all 
ripen in fall, and must be gathered in the cones. 

Abies balsamea {Balsam, Fir). — Leaves narrow, and 
about an inch long ; cones three to four inches long ; tree 
tall and slender; bark with numerous blisters, from Avhich 



EVERGREEN TKEES. 159 

the well-known Balsam Fir — oi* Canada Balsam — is taken ; 
wood is of little value ; grows naturally in a wet soil, 
and is of little beauty Avben cultivated, except when 
young. By the time the tree is ten years old, the lower 
branches die, and it becomes a tall, spindling, ill-looking 
tree. 

Abies Fjkazeri [Double JBcdsam). — Very similar to 
the last, but the leaves are more numerous and the cones 
smaller ; not worth cultivating where there are so many 
that are better. 

Abies Caxadeistsis {Semlock Spruce). — This is the most 
beautiful native evergreen we possess. It has a most 
graceful habit, with light, elegant, and delicate foliage, 
and branches which no one who admii-es an evergreen can 
fail to appreciate ; leaves flat, dark green above and sil- 
very underneath, little less than an inch in length ; cones 
small, about three quarters of an inch long. The timber 
is coarse-grained, well known. It grows best on deep 
loams and stony soils ; sometimes found in swamps, but 
seldom of large size. A light, dry soil is preferable, and 
a heavy clay the very last place it should be planted in, as 
on such it is quite tender, being often winter-killed even in 
this latitude, while it grows naturally hundreds of miles 
to the north. The tree attains a great height and size — 
often one hundred and twenty-five feet, and stem five to 
six feet ii) diameter. 

Abies nigra {Black Spruce^ Double Spruce., Red, 
Spruce). — Leaves three quarters of an inch long, deep 
green, thickly set on the branches ; cones from an inch to 
an inch and a half long ; tree an erect conical grower with 



160 THE FOEEST TREE CULTUKIST. 

stout curved branches, variable in appearance ; sometimes 
the leaves are dark green, in others reddish or light yellow 
green. It is quite large, and its wood similar to hemlock, 
but more firm, 

Abies alba ( White or Single Spmce). — Very similar to 
the last ; but the general appearance of the tree when 
young is lighter colored ; it loses its beauty with age ; 
cones slightly longer than the Red Spruce, and more firm. 
These last two varieties, should give way to that more 
beautiful European variety the 

Abies excels a [l^orway S2:)ri(,ce). — This is a magnificent 
tree, and succeeds in almost any good rich soil ; it grows 
very rapidly, and retains its beautiful proportions until of 
great age ; trees of fifty or more feet in height are quite 
common in the old gardens throughout the Eastern 
States, as well as in some of the Western. Seeds are 
always to be had of our seedsmen, and are easily grown 
in frames. 

Some of the new varieties which have been lately dis- 
covered among the Rocky Mountains will no doubt be 
acquisitions to this class of Evergreen trees. Several of 
these grow to an immense height, often over two hundred 
feet high. Trees of most of our far Western varieties are 
to be had from our largest nurseries, but at very high 
prices. The cones of some of these trees are really won- 
derful in their structure, as well as beautiful. 

The following give promise of being hardy, even in the 
Northern States : 

Abies bracteata {Leafy-coned Silver Fir), found in 
Upper California and in Oregon. I have received cones of 



EVERGREEN TREES. 1(>I 

this from near tlie Columbia River, and without doubt it 
grows much farther North. 

Abies xobilis {NohU Silver Fir), also from the mount- 
ains of Upper California. 

Abies geaxdis {Great Silver Fir), from Oregon, where 
it grows to an immense size ; some specimens have been 
found nearly three hundred feet high. 

There are also many other varieties of Evergreens belong- 
ing to this genus that are well worthy of cultivation, but 
none that will give more genei-al satisfaction than the Nor- 
way Spruce and Hemlock ; these are the two best of those 
that have been extensively tried. 

Some new species from the Pacific coast promise to be 
acquisitions, but they are as yet scarce ; whether they will 
be adapted to general cultivation in our Northern States 
remains yet to be learned. 

CuPEEssus THYOiDEs. ( White Cedar.) 

Leaves very small, compressed, four rows on each side 
of the small branches, rather light green, becoming dull 
yellowish green in winter ; cone very small, about a quar- 
ter of an inch in diameter ; tree grows fifty to sixty feet 
in height ; heart- wood red, fine-grained, and very durable ; 
common in swamps in Eastern States ; seeds ripen in 
autumn. It can also be grown from cuttings placed in 
frames early in autumn, same as directed for Arborvitres. 

A new species of Cypress fi-om Northern California (Cu- 
pressus Lawsoniana) promises to be a very beautiful tree ; 
and should it prove hardy, it will be well worthy of the 
attention of all lovers of beautiful trees. 



1G2 THE FOREST TEEE CULTUEIST. 

JuxiPERUs. {Juniper^ 

Well-known trees and slarubs, very common in most of 
the Eastern States where there are dry, sterile soils. They 
are all quite variable in appearance in the different sections 
in which they grow ; the most beautiful forms are seen 
along the banks of the North River, where they grow 
among the rocks of the Palisades. 

JuxiPERUs COMMUNIS {Gominoti Juniper^. — Leaves in 
threes, awl-shaped, prickly pointed, bright green, becom- 
ing dull rusty brown in winter ; berries dark purple ; 
usually ]ov^'-spreading shrubs. 

JuxiPERus ViRGiNiANA {JRed Cedar). — Leaves much 
crowded, spreading, awl-shaped, prickly ; trees of various 
shapes, sometimes long, pointed, conical, others low 
spreading ; berries small, covered with a blue bloom ; 
should be sown in autumn, or mixed with muck or leaf 
mold and placed in the open ground until they begin to 
germinate, which they will seldom do xintil the second 
spring after being gathered. The Red Cedar wood is well 
known as one of the most durable, as Avell as one of the 
slowest in growth. A short time since I cut a tree that 
was only three inches in diameter, but its annular rings 
showed tliat it was fifty-seven years old. In rich soils they 
will grow more rapidly. 

Thei-e is a dwarf variety of Juniper (J. humilis) Avhich 
is a low-spreading shrub, found along the North RiA^er 
and northward, and pi'obably in many other sections of 
the country. 

Some of the foreign species are more ornamental than 
our native species. The more common of these are the 



EVERGREEN TREES. 163 

J. Suecia (Swedish Juniper) and J. Hibornica (Irish Juni- 
per). They are both very handsome, long, slender, coni- 
cal-growing small trees, which give a very pleasant effect 
when interspersed in a group of larger-growing kinds. 

The Junij^ers may all be grown from seeds, or from cut- 
tings made in September or October and put in frames ; 
but these should be covered with glass, so that the air can 
be kept confined and more heat retained than in the open 
frames. The frames should be partially shaded nntil the 
cuttings are rooted ; also covered so that the ground will 
not be frozen in winter. Seeds are the safest method for 
those who have had no exjjerience in propagating under 
glass. The nurserymen propagate the Junipers from green- 
growing wood taken off in the early part of summer; these 
are placed in hot-beds or in a propagating-house. 

PiNUS. {Pine) 

The Pines ai"e among the most useful or ornamental trees 
that we possess, as it is from these that we derive our best 
lumber for building, such as siding, flooring, and general 
finishing of inside as well as outside work. Probably 
nine tenths of all the dwelling-houses in the country out- 
side of our large cities are covered with pine shingles. Be- 
sides furnishing such vast quantities of lumber, the Pines 
of our Southern States furnish immense quantities of fuel, 
pitch, tar, resin, and turpentine ; and so great is the pro- 
duction of these last-named articles, that we have exported 
in a single year more than a million dollars' worth, besides 
the vast quantities used at home. 

The Pines are more or less difficult to transplant, as they 



164 



THE FOREST TEEE CULTUEIST. 



produce but few small fibrous roots; but this is partially 
obviated when they are grown in nurseries and frequently 
transplanted while young. The leaves are more or less 
long and slender, and grow in clusters of two to five, 
inclosed in a sheath at the base. Fig. 43 shows the leaves, 
natural size, of the Jersey Pine (Pinus inops). The leaves 
and cones are the two most prominent characteristics that 




i 

Fig. 43. Fig. 44. Fig. 45. 

I shall use in describing the following species. The trees 
all blossom, in spring ; but it requires two years for the 
cones to mature ; seeds winged. 

Fig. 44 shows a seed of Pinus rigid a, natural size, two 
of these being produced at the base of each scale of the 
cone. The cones should be gathered so soon as they ma- 



EVEEGEEEN TREES. 165 

tiiro, and be spread out where tliey will dry ; this causes 
them to open and allow the seeds to fall out. Sow the 
seeds in frames or in a shady place, either in fall or spring. 
Fig. 45 shows a young pine as it appears when it first 
comes above ground ; at this time they ai"e very delicate, 
and require much care to prevent them from being burned 
by the sun or destroyed by giving too much water. 

PiNus Baxicsiana {Northern Scrub Pine). — Leaves 
short, stout, I'igid, in tv.'os ; cones one to two inches long, 
scales not pointed ; a small tree or large shrub, of no value. 

PiNus ixops {Jersey Scrub Pine). — Leaves two to three 
inches long, in twos ; cones obovate conical, two to three 
inches long, scales tipped with a sharp, stout thorn about 
one sixteenth of an inch in length ; tree quite handsome 
Avhen young, if grown in good soil, but becoming strag- 
gling when old or when grown in poor, dry, sterile 
hills and barrens, where it is usually most common ; gen- 
erally a small tree, but occasionally a group will be found 
that are forty to fifty feet high ; New Jersey and southward. 

PiNus puxGENS (Table 3fountain Pine). — Leaves stout, 
two to three inches long, in twos ; cones same form as the 
last, but double the size ; tree of small size, seldom over 
fifty feet ; found in Virginia and along the Blue Ridge to 
Alabama, also in some parts of North Carolina, as I have 
received cones from the latter State several years since, 
where it was said to be quite abundant on the high table- 
lands. 

PiNus RESiiiTOSA {Pecl Pi7ie). — Leaves long, somewhat 
cylindiical, five to six inches, in twos, very dark green ; 
cones conical, two inches long, scales not pointed ; a large 



166 



THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. 



tree, common in the Northern States. In 
Northern New York, and perhaps elsewhere, it 
is called Norway Pine. 

PiNus MiTis (Yellow Pine). — Leaves long 
and slender, three to five inches, usually in 
twos, but sometimes threes; cones oblong coni- 
cal, two inches long, scales tif)ped with very 
small prickles ; New England, New Jersey, and 
southward ; fifty to sixty feet high ; wood fine- 
gi'ained and valuable. 

PiNus GLAEKA {/Sinooth-lectved Pine). — There 
is some doubt about this being a distinct species. 
Chapman, in his " Botany of the Southern 
States," describes it as such. Leaves three to 
four inches long, in twos; cones two inches 




Fig. 47. 

long. It is called Spruce Pine at the South ; 
and is probably only a variety of the last. I 



KVETIGKEEN TKEES. 



167 



hfive cones of both of these species, but can see no differ- 
ence between them. 

Pixus RiGiDA [Pitch Pine). — Leaves three to six inches 
long, in threes, rather flat, somewhat twisted, as shown in 
fig. 46 ; cones oval, sometimes slightly conical, two to 
three inches long, scales tipped with a short, stout, re- 
curved spine. Fig. 47 shows a cluster of the cones, natural 
size, at the end of the first summer. These were fertilized 
by the staminate flowers in spring, and remained almost 
stationary, enlarging but little during the entire season. 




Fig. 48. 



The next spring they enlarge very rapidly, and are of full 
size by the first of Jul}'. Fig. 48 shows one of the cones, 
natural size. These cones adhere to the tree very tena- 



1C8 THE FOREST TJbiEE CtJLTUKIST. 

ciously, and cones ten years old can he found in abun- 
dance on the old stems and hranches. The cones of this 
species, and probably many others, are produced on the 
new Avood, making their appearance about the first of 
June. As the new growth proceeds, the cones are carried 
forward, as it were, so that when the shoot has finished its 
growth, the cones will be found about midway between 
the base and terminal point. Generally there will be 
lateral branches produced just above the cones, appear- 
ing as though produced on the terminal point of the pre- 
vious year's growth. Sometimes two sets of cones will 
form on the same shoot, one several inches above the other. 
I have one before me now (June 20th, 1866) ; the first set 
on this season's growth is six inches from the base ; the 
next eight inches above ; in both cases there are no leaves 
on the stem for an inch or moi'e abo^'e the cones, leaving a 
bare spot at the point where the cones are produced. It 
is a large tree, with resinous wood. New England to New 
Jersey and southward. 

PiNus TCEDA [Old Field Pine, JLoUolly Pine). — Leaves 
very long and slender, six to ten inches, in threes ; cones 
three to five inches long, scales with short, straight sjDine ; 
tree from sixty to one hundred feet high ; Virginia and 
southward ; not hardy at the North. 

PiNus SEEOTiNA [Pond Pine) and P. Austkalis are 
both Southei-n species that are very similar to the last ; of 
no value for cultivation at the North, 

Pi::q'us Strobus {White Pine, Weymouth Pine) . — Leaves 
slender, dark green, three to six inches long, five in a 
sheath — fig. 49 ; cones four to six inches long, usually pen- 



EVERGREEN TREES. 



169 



dulous, scales thin, not pointed, open early in fall or win- 
ter, the seeds soon falling ; tree of great size, sometimes 
one hundred and seventy feet high, very 
straight. This tree furnishes the immense 
quantities of white-pine lumber so well 
known throughout the country. It is a 
handsome ornamental tree of rapid growth. 
The young trees as they are generally 
found in the forests have comparatively 
few branches, and the tree is not dense 
enougli to be handsome, but can be made 
so by severely shortening all the leading 
shoots. 

In some sections of the country the yoimg 
trees are infested with a species of bark- 
louse (coccus) ; it is covered with a white 
downy substance, which makes it quite con- 
spicuous and readily detected as it fastens 
upon the stem and branches. A strong- 
solution of whale-oil soap, or one pound Fig. 49. 
of potash to six quarts of water, applied to the infested 
parts will usually destroy them. A very convenient remedy, 
where only the stem and larger branches are infested, is a 
piece of common hard soap fastened in the branches above 
the insects; every rain will dissolve a portion of this, which 
is carried down and over the insects. The young lice 
when first hatched are so delicate that the least particle 
of soap kills them, and they can neither live nor multiply 
on bark that is Avashed every rain Avith a solution of soap. 

There are a great number of species of this genus which 

8 



.170 THE FOREST TREE CULTUEIST. 

are native of different parts of the Old "World; many of 
them are perfectly hardy in our Northern States. Seeds 
of several of the best and most common kinds are annu- 
ally imported by the seedsmen. The Pinus Cembra (Swiss 
Stone Pine), Pinus Corsica (Corsican Pine), Pinus Aus- 
triaca (Austrian Pine), and Pinus Sylvestiis (Scotch Pine) 
are quite common, and to be found in all large nurseries. 
These and several other species are Avell worthy of being 
extensively cultivated. 

There are also many species that have been discovered 
on the Pacific coast and among the Rocky Mountains, but 
as yet they are rather scarce, and their true character as 
to hardiness is not fully known. 

Sequoia gigantea. ( Giant /Sequoia.) 

This is the largest-groAving evergreen tree knoAvn on 
this continent, and perhaps in the world, there being speci- 
mens now growing in California which are nearly if not 
quite four hundred feet high, with stems twenty to thirty 
feet in diameter. The leaves resemble the Arborvitses, 
the cones are oval and about two inches long, scales thick, 
pointless; seeds small, winged on tall sides; wood valu- 
able, somewhat similar to red cedar ; tree of very rapid 
growth, but unfortunately not sufficiently hardy for gen- 
eral cultivation at the North, although in protected situa- 
tions it grows as far north as Central New York ; not 
fully tested. 

Thuja occidentalis. (Arborvitce.) 
In many portions of the country this is called Cedar ; 




EVERGEEEN TEEES. 171 

leaves very small and compressed, resembling small scales ; 
cones small, not more than half an inch long ; scales thin, 
paper-like, light yellowish ; seeds small, winged all round ; 
ripe in fall, and may be kept until s^^ring before sowing. 
Fig. 50 shows two cones of natural 
size and one of the seeds. It also grows 
readily from cuttings planted in frames 
early in autumn and protected from 
frost in winter. In making cuttings, ^'S- ^O- 

it is best to take the young wood with a small portion of 
the old wood attached. The soil in which they are plant- 
ed should be at least one half sand or sandy loam, and the 
remainder a good, well-decomposed leaf mold, or other old 
and rich soil. If jDlanted in September or early October, 
and liept from fi-eezing, they will usually be rooted by the 
first of May following, even when no glass is used for 
coverings. They should be shaded from the direct rays 
of tlie sun until winter sets in, then covered sufficiently to 
keep out the frost. Transplant the next spring. (See page 
32.) It is a tree of small size, seldom over thirty feet. 

The ArborvitDBS are very nnmei'ous, and there is scarcely 
any country in the northern portion of our globe that does 
not furnish us with one or more species of this tree. Bot- 
anists have divided them into two classes — those which 
produce wingless seeds are called Biota, and to this class 
belong what is known as the Chinese Arborvitfe (Biota 
Chinensis), Tartarian Arborvitse (Biota Tartarica), and 
many vai'ieties Avhich have been produced from their seeds. 
The Siberian Arborvitte, which is so well known among 
us, has winged seeds, and properly belongs to the Thujas 



172 THE FOREST TREE CIILTURIST. 

although generally classed among the Biotas in nursery- 
men's catalogues. This latter species has a very compact 
habit and is of slow growth, but perfectly hardy ; it is 
a general favorite, and deservedly so. It is not improb- 
able that this species may yet be found on our Northwest 
coast, as Arborvitses are quite common there, and several 
new species have been sent from that locality, and are now 
being cultivated by our nurserymen. I have received 
cones and branches from the north of Oregon that are not 
distinguishable from the Siberian; It may be that the 
species known as the Siberian is nothing more than a sport 
from our common species. It is certainly a very near 
relation, 

I could readily add many other species of Evergreen 
trees indigenous to the United States and Territories, but 
enough have been named to give sufficient variety for 
ornamenting any j^lace, however extensive ; besides, those 
that I have mentioned arc well known, and more easily 
obtained than those that have been omitted. 



EVEEGKEEN SHETJBS. 17? 



CHAPTER XIII. 

EYERGEEEN SHEUES, 

To complete a struct ui-e after the more "bulky portions 
have been put together is often more difficult and requii-es 
more taste and skill than it did to lay the foundation and 
rear the building ; and so it is with planting a group, 
grove, or belt of trees, for in a few years they lift high 
their heads, and often leave their naked stems exposed to 
view, as well as allow the winds to pass whei-e we would 
wish it stayed. 

To avoid this, it is well to plant small shrubs which 
never grow to any considerable height, but keep within 
reach of pruning shears and knife. Some of our native 
evergreen shrubs are the most beautiful of any known, and 
all are worthy of a place in grove or garden. 

By planting the smaller-growing evergreens among 
those of larger groAvth we can give a more pleasing effect 
to the group, as they will fill up the open spaces, tone 
down the tall and rugged, and give a solid and firm ap- 
pearance even to the small group or narrow belt. 

Many of those which I have named among the trees, such 
as the Arborvitoss and Junipers, may be used in place of 
those that are naturally small shrubs, or for planting along- 
side of those of tall growtb, and by keeping them close- 
pruned they will never exceed a few feet in height ; but 



174 THE FOREST TBEE CCTLTUKTST. 

amon2: those we desiornate as slirubs there are some that 
produce such beautiful flowers, that to pass them by would 
be like passing diamonds and picking up iron when look- 
ing for ornaments. 

Andeomeda floribunda. — Leaves lanceolate, pointed, 
about two inches long ; flowers in dense racemes, pure 
white, somewhat urn-shape, about three eighths of an inch 
long; a beautiful, slow-growing evergreen shrub, nati\'e 
of the mountains of Virginia and southward. It is quite 
hardy in most of the JsTorthern States, but is not veiy plen- 
tiful in cultivation, probably owing to its slow growth and 
the difiiculty experienced bj'' our nurserymen in propagat- 
ing it. It may be grown from seed, the same as other 
evergreens, also from layers ; but the best way is to grow 
it from green cuttings in a propagating-liouse or hot-beds. 
It is Avell worthy of more extensive cultivation. 

Andromeda polifolia. — Leaves lanceolate, smooth, 
thick, with a revolute margin, white beneath ; a small shrub, 
seldom two feet high; grows in cold, vrct soils; not so hand- 
some as A. floribunda. 

Arctostapiiylos Uya-ursa {JBearherry). — A low, trail- 
ing shrub with thick evei'green leaves and red fruit, com- 
mon on rocky, barren hills in New Jersey and Avestward ; 
propagated from seed, layers, or from green cuttings. 

Berberis Aquilifolium {3fahonia. Evergreen Jhir- 
herry). — Leaves pinnate, with sharp prickles; berries blue, 
remaining on the bush until mid-winter ; a veiy pretty 
shrub from Oregon ; succeeds Avell in the shade ; propa- 
gated by layers or cuttings of the young wood. 

Buxus {JBo). — Although we have no indigenous plants 



EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 175 

of this genus, still we have cultivated some of the species 
for so long a time that they have become almost or quite 
naturalized in many of the Eastern States. All the varie- 
ties are quite hardy, especially if grown where they are 
partially shaded. 

We often require small evergreen shruhs that will grow 
and thrive in the shade, and there is none more suitable 
for that purpose than the various kinds of Box. They 
can be had in great variety in almost any of the lai"ger 
nurseries, and are propagated from cuttings of the ripe 
wood taken off in the autumn or early spring and planted 
in sandy soils, or from green cuttings placed under glass. 

Cassandea caltculata {Leather Leaf). — Leaves ob- 
long, flat ; flowers white in the axils of the upper leaves ; 
a low, branching shrub producing an abundance of small 
flowers in early spring ; common in bog grounds, but 
thrives in dry soils when cultivated ; propagated from cut- 
tings of the roots. It is also known inider the name of 
Andromeda calyculata. 

Ilex opaca [Holly). — Leaves oval, flat, with uneven 
margins, with small spines ; flowers small, yellow ; berries 
bright red ; a very handsome large shrub with beautiful 
glossy leaves ; common in most of the Eastern States. 
Small plants can be usually found in the Avoods or in the 
open fields, and if carefully taken u}) can be made to grow 
very readily. A moist time in the early spring is the most 
suitable for transplanting. The Hollies all thrive well in 
the shade, and deserve more attention than they have 
heretofore received in this country. They may also be 
grown from seed and from green cuttings. 



176 THE FOEEST TREE CCLTUEIST. 

Ilex Cassine (Cassena. Ycnqoon). — Leaves lanceolate, 
oval, one to two inches long, not spiny, but simply serrate; 
native of Virginia and southward. The celebrated Yau- 
pon tea of tlie Carolinas is made of the leaves of this 
plant ; hardy in protected situations at the North. 

Ilex myktifolia [Small-leaved Holly'). — Leaves very 
narrow, and only an inch long, sharply serrate ; flowei's 
singly or in small clusters ; Virginia and southward along 
the coast. 

Ilex DAHOOiSr [DaJioon Solly). — Leaves oblong lance- 
olate, serrate, two to three inches long, mai'gins mostly 
revolute ; swamps of the Carolinas and southward. 

Ilex glabra {Inkberry). — Leaves oblong, slightly 
wedge-shaped, smooth, dark green ; flowers small, white ; 
a low, slender shrub of no great beauty ; common from 
Massachusetts to Florida along the coast ; Prinos glabra 
of the old botanists. 

Kalmia. [AmericaJi Laurel.) 

The Kalmias are greatly admired in Europe, and no 
gentleman's garden would be thought to be complete with- 
out its group of American Laurels. But here, in its na- 
tive country, it is neglected and passed by as a thing to 
be almost despised, simply because it is common in some 
localities. Occasionally we see a group in some gentle- 
man's ground, but in most cases I fear that it is only found 
there because the owner imported it, supposing he was 
getting some foreign plant. This false taste, which admires 
a plant that comes from abroad more than one that is 
native, is, I fear, too prevalent among us. 



EVEKGEEEJSr SHRUBS. 177 

There is certainly no evergreen shrub more beautiful, 
nor one that deserves more attention, than our native 
broad-leaved Kalmia. It is said to be difficult to trans- 
plant, but I have not found it so even with plants twenty 
to thirty years old. To select plants from a thick wood for 
pFanting in an open garden is certainly not judicious, but 
the plants should be placed in a similar soil and situation 
as the one from Avhich they were taken. It is also best to 
transplant just after a rain, and take them uj) with as much 
soil adhering to their roots as possible. If but few roots 
are saved, then it is best to cut them back severely when 
planted, as there is no evergreen shrub which i:)roduces 
new shoots more freely when cut back than the Laurel. 
The Laurels may be grown from seed, but they grow very 
slowly, and it will require several years for the seedlings 
to become plants of any great size. Layers made of the 
young wood emit roots quite freely. 

Kalmia latifolia {Mountain Laurel). — Leaves oval- 
lanceolate, tapering to both ends, bright green; flowers 
pink or white, bell-shaped in large terminal clusters, pro- 
duced in May and June ; shrubs six to fifteen feet high ; 
Maine to Georgia ; grows in dry, rocky soils, also in poor 
sandy soils, although it grows more rapidly in that which 
is moist and deep ; suitable for shady situations. It is 
very common in the States of Pennsylvania and New 
Jersey. 

Kalmia angustifolia {8heep LaiireV). — Leaves oblonij, 
small, light green above, pale green or whitish underneath ; 
flowers deep rose, in small lateral clusters almo&t surround- 
ing the last season's growth ; plant one to three feet high ; 



178 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. 

branches slender; common on dry sandy soils in most of 
the Eastern States. 

The Laurels are supposed in many sections to be very 
poisonous to sheej), and wonderful stories are in circulation 
as to its deleterious eftects on various kinds of animals. 
Probably the only truth there is in these tales is the fact, 
that sheep when not supplied with sufficient food will eat 
more of the laurel leaves than their stomachs will digest, 
and they become rolled up in a hard ball, and by remain- 
ing in the stomach cause irritation, and then inflamma- 
tion, which produces death. In such instances the Laurels, 
as well as other thick-leaved evergreens, become danger- 
ous, just the same as an old boot or a lump of hair or other 
similar substances which sheep and cattle will occasion- 
ally eat. 

Kalmia glauca {Pale Laurel). — Leaves oblong, Avhite, 
glaucous beneath, with somewhat revolute margins ; flow- 
ers lilac purple, terminal, few ; a small shrub, seldom more 
than one foot high ; grows in cold peat soils in Pennsylva- 
nia and New York. 

Kalmia hirsuta {Rough Laurel). — LeaA^es oblong, 
three to four inches long, smooth ; flowers rose color, pro- 
duced singly in the axils of the leaves on the new growth 
of the season ; native of the swamps of the South. 

Ledum latifolium {Labrador l^ea). — Leaves elliptical, 
oblong, entire, alternate, rusty woolly underneath, with 
revolute margins; flowers white, quite haudsome, in ter- 
minal clusters ; small shrubs in cold peat bogs ; blooms in 
June; New England and most of the Northern States, 
also in Canada. Another species, L. palustre, has long. 



ETEEGEEEN SHEUBS. 1Y9 

narrow leaves, and is found chiefly in the more northern 
portion of the Canadas. 

LoiSELEURiA PKOcuMBENS {Aljjvie Azcileo). — A small, 
trailing evergreen, shrub with small white or rose-colored 
flowers and small opposite elliptical leaves; propagated 
from layers ; found in the mountains of New Hampshire. 

Leiopiiyllum buxifolium {Sand Myrtle). — Leaves 
about one half inch long, oval, smooth, glossy, very thick, 
mostly opposite ; flowers terminal, in clusters, small, white, 
not showy ; a spreading shrub, five to ten feet high, 

Rhododendeox. 

The Rhododendron has been and is still admired by all 
civilized nations. Its flowers, foliage, and general habit 
command the attention of every beholder. Its name is 
derived from a Greek word signifying rose-tree, and there 
is none of the species to Avhich the name is more appli- 
cable than to one of our native species — R. Catawbiense. 

Rhododendrons are found in many portions of the globe. 
Tartavy, China, Siberia, Japan, Italy, Caucasus, and many 
other portions of the Eastern world, contribute diflerent 
species to ornament the groves and gardens of civilized 
man, whether he dwells in city or country. 

Although the Rhododendron is so much admired at the 
present time, still there was a day when it was condemned 
in no measured terms. In the time of the ancient Romans 
it was supposed to be a very poisonous plant, and deadly 
to all kinds of animals, but a counter-poison to man, espe- 
cially against the bite of serpents. Even the honey whicli 
the bees gathered from the flowers was said to be poison- 



180 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. 

ous ; and the poor people of the regions where the Pontic 
Rhododendron was plentiful were much perplexed on the 
account of their tribute of honey being I'efused by the 
Roman government. The prejudice against this plant 
was prevalent as late as 1568, for Dr. Turner says that he 
did not wish it introduced into England, for although 
beautiful without, that within it was a ravenous wolf and 
a murderer. But the dreadful character given it did not 
prevent its introduction, and at the present time English 
gardens derive their greatest beauty from their groups of 
Rhododendrons. No gai-den is complete, nay, scarcely 
beautiful, without a few plants at least of this splendid 
evei'green shrub. 

Our indigenous sj^ecies are equally as beautiful as those 
from foreign countries, and they can be had from the 
woods and fields of many portions of the Northern and 
Southern States. The same care is requisite in transplant- 
ing them as Avith the Kalmia, and no more. They are 
also easily grown from the seed, which ripens in autumn. 
Sow in frames the same as Avith other evei'greens. Nur- 
serymen propagate them in various ways, such as cuttings, 
layers, grafting the scarce varieties on the more common, 
etc. 

Rhododendron maximum {Great LaureT). — Leaves obo- 
vate oblong, acute, smooth on both sides, deep green, six 
to ten inches long ; flowers in terminal clusters, white or 
pale rose color, marked with greenish yelloAV, slightly 
spo-tted with red ; shrubs six to twenty feet high ; New 
England to Georgia, but more common along the banks 
of streams in Western New Jersey and Pennsylvania. 



EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 181 

Rhododendeox Catawbiense {Hose J3ai/). — Leaves 
oval or oblong, ronncled at both ends, smooth, dark green 
above, and pale green beneath, three to five inches long ; 
flowers lilac purple, in large, round terminal clusters ; very- 
showy, and the most beautiful native species. Grows 
from three to six feet high, and native of the Alleghanies 
and to the southward along the mountains. 

Rhododendron Lapponicum {Lapland Hose). — Leaves 
V3ry small, elliptical, obtuse, dotted on both sides ; 
branches with rusty scales ; flowers violet purple, bell- 
shaped, in small clusters ; a low-spreading shrub, three to 
six feet higli ; in Northern New York and eastward to 
Maine. 

Khododendeon punctatum {Spotted Laxirel). — Leaves 
elliptical, acute at both ends, two to five inches long, 
smooth, Avith small resinous globules on the under side ; 
flowers rose color, spotted within, in large clusters ; shrub 
four to six feet high ; North Carolina and southward. 

Taxus Canadensis {American Yew^ Ground Sendock). 
— Leaves linear, green on both sides ; seed a round, bright 
red berry very ornamental. A low, wide-spreading shrub, 
usually found in rocky situations in the shade ; propagated 
from layers or cuttings ; seeds seldom grow until they 
have been in the ground two years ; a handsome ever- 
green shrub found on the Alleglianies and to the north- 
ward along the banks of streams. Common on the high- 
lands of the Hudson Kiver. 

There are many more evergreen shrubs and plants that 
might be added, but the foregoing will be found to con- 
tain the most beautiful of our native species, and a sufii- 



182 THE FOREST TEEE CULTUKIST. 

cienl number to raake every farmer's home in the country 
as cheerful and beautiful as the most refined taste could 
desire. 

It is certainly not because there is any scarcity of mate- 
rial that makes many of our farmers' homes look So deso- 
late and uninviting; but it is because there is a want of 
energy and a proper cultivated taste. 

Tlie farmer above all others should plant trees, shrubs, - 
and flowers about his home, for he can obtain them from 
the woods and fields Avithout money or price. Let him 
once begin with a proper spirit, and the labor of arranging, 
planting, etc., will become a pleasant recreation instead of 
an irksome toil. I do not believe that American farmers, 
as a class, possess less taste for the beautiful than those of 
some otlier countries, for I know many, A'ery many, most 
beautiful homes among the poorer class of farmers, as well 
as the rich. But there are too many who never plant a ti'ee 
or shrub for ornament, and the taste for the beautiful in 
nature is not so general as it should be, to make our coun- 
try foremost in all tliat will elevate and bless mankind. 



KECAPITTJLATIOK. 183 



RECAPITULATIOiSr. 

In the following list I have endeavored to select only 
the most valuable of those trees mentioned in the preced- 
ing pages, noting their particular points of excellence. 

Acer sacchaeinum {Hard Maple). — Tree of rather slow 
growth, hut the wood very valuable for fuel. 

Acer dasycarpum [Silver Maple). — Not equal in qual- 
ity to tlie last, but much more rapid in growth, 

Castaxea vesca [Chestnut). — A rapid grower, and very 
valuable for posts, stakes, and other similar purposes ; very 
durable. 

Carta [Hickory). — The Hickories are all of rathei- slow 
growth, but valuable, while young, for hoop-poles. They 
also make the ^ery best fuel when old. The Carya tomen- 
tosa is probably the most profitable to grow for its timber, 
but is not always the toughest. 

The Carya alba [Shell-Bark) and Carya oliv^for- 
Mis [Pecan-nut) produce the most valuable nuts, 

Fagus feruginea [Red JBeech). — Tree of slow growth, 
but will thrive on shallow, stony soils ; valuable, while 
young, for hoop poles, and excellent for fuel and many 
other purposes when mature. 

Fraxinus Americana [White Ash). — A moderately 
rapid gi'ower, producing a tough and most valuable tim- 
ber. This is one of the most profital)le ti-ees to grow, re- 
quiring a deep, rich soil. 



184 THE FOEEST TREE CULTUEIST. 

Fkaxinus sambucifolia ( Water Ash). — Of rapid growth, 
valuable for growing in low, wet soils. 

Larix communis {Euro2:>ea?i White Larch). — Succeeds 
well on dry, sandy soils, also on those that are nioist and 
rich ; of rapid growth ; timber very valuable. Should be 
extensively cultivated near all of our large seaports. 

PoPULUS {Pojylar). — Tlicre are two or three species of 
Poplar Avhich might be profitably grown on the praiiies 
for fuel, although it Avould not be of the best quality. The 
growth of all the Poplars is veiy rapid, and they are veiy 
readily propagated from cuttings. 

QuERCus alba ( White Oak). — A slow grower, but the 
timber is exceedingly valuable at all ages. 

QuERCus OBTusiLOBA (Post Oak). — Similar to the last, 
but will thrive in poorer soils. 

Salix alba ( White Willoio). — Particulai'ly valuable for 
growing on the prairies. Growth very rapid ; timber of 
fair quality for fuel. 

Taxodium pistichlm {Cyj^ress). — Grows rapidly ; very 
durable timber, excellent for posts, stakes, or for fuel. 

Ulmus Americana {White Elv%). — Valuable where 
very tough timber is required ; tree of very rapid growth; 
succeeds best on deep, rich, alluvial soils. 



INDEX. 



185 



INDEX. 



Annnlar Budding 43 

Arborvitte Cutting 32 

Acer saccharinum 74 

Acer rubrum TC 

Acer nigrum To 

Acer Penns)'! vanicura 75 

Acer dasycarpum 75 

Acer Negundo 77 

Acer spfcatum 77 

Acer plantanoides 77 

Ash-leaved Maple 77 

Acer Pseudo-Platanus 78 

JEscnlus 78 

JEsculn? glabra 79 

^■Esculns purpiirescens 70 

^sculus Pavia 79 

^scnlus flava 79 

Ash 95 

American Aspen 113 

Angled Cottonwood 113 

Abele 114 

American Basswood 127 

Alnus 132 

Alder 132 

Alnus incana 132 

Asimina triloba 133 

Aslmiua parviilora 134 

Aralia spino:^!\ 134 

American Barberrj' 135 

American Olive 142 

Abies 15S 

Abies balsamea 158 

Abies Fraseri 159 ! 

Abies Canadensis 159 I 

Abies nigra 159 [ 

Abies alfta 100 | 

Abies excelsa ItJO . 

Abies bracteata KiO ; 

Abies nobiiis . Ifil i 

Abies grandis . .'. IHl i 

Arborvitte 170 

Andromedx floribunda 174 

Andromeda polifolia 174 

Arctostaphylos 174 

American Laurel 176 

Alpine Azalea 179 j 

Budding and Grafting 31 ' 

Budding-Knife 43 

Budding 40 

Budding, How performed 41 

Black Maple 75 

Betula 80 



Page 

Birch 80 

Betula alba 81 

Betula papyracea 81 

Betula nigra 82 

Betula excelsa 82 

Betula lenta 82 

Black Birch 82 

Bitter-nut 90 

Beech 92 

Black Ash 96 

Blue Ash 97 

Butter-nut 99 

Black Walnut 101 

Bilsted 106 

Buttonwood Ill 

Balsam Poplar 113 

Black-Jack Oak 118 

Basswood 127 

Berberis 135 

Berberis vulgaris 135 

Barberry 135 

Berberis Canadensis 135 

Blue Beech 135 

Burning Bush 139 

Black Mulberry 141 

Bucktlioru 144 

Buflalo Berry 145 

Black Spruce 159 

Balsam Fir 158 

Bearbeny 174 

Berberis ^ 174 

Busus (Bos) 174 

Canoe Birch SO 

Castanea 83 

Chestnut 82 

Castanea vesca 85 

Castanea pumila 86 

Carya 86 

Chinquapin 86 

Carya olivaiformis 87 

Carya alba 89 

Carya sulcata 89 

Carya tomentosa 89 

Carj^a microcarpa 90 

Carya glabra 90 

Carya amara 90 

Cladrastis tinctoria 91 

Carolina Water Ash 97 

Cucumber Tree 107 

Cherry ill 

Cottonwood 113 

Common Locust 123 



186 



THE FOKEST TEEE CULTUEIST. 



Pose 

Clammy Locust 123 

Cj'press 125 

Corky White Elm 136 

Custard Apple 134 

Carpinus Americana 135 

Cercis 135 

Cercis Canadensis 13(i 

Cercis Japonica 130 

Celtis occidentalis 13U 

Catalpa bignonioides 136 

Chionantlius Virginica 136 

Cigar True 136 

Cornus 137 

Cornus florida 137 

Cornus mascula 137 

Crat:egus 137 

Cratiegus cordata l£8 

Crataegus tomentosa 138 

Cratii'gus crns-galli 138 

Cockspur Thorn 138 

Crab Apple 143 

Cupressus thyoides l(;i 

Cassandra calyculata 175 

Depth to Plant Trees 58 

Deciduous Trees 73 

Dwarf Chestnut Oak 118 

Diospyrus Virginiana 13S 

Dios])yrus Lotus 139 

Diospyrus kaki 139 

Downing's Mulberry 141 

DeWl Wood 142 

Double Balsam. 119 

Double Spruce 159 

Dahoon Holly 176 

English Walnut 102 

Ear-leaved Magnolia 108 

Elm 128 

English Elm 130 

Euouymus atropurpurens 139 

English Mulberry 141 

•Evergreen Trees 147 

Evergreen Shrubs 173 

Fagus 92 

Fagus feruginea 93 

Fraxinus 95 

Fraxinus Americana 96 

Fraxinus pubescens 96 

Fraxinus verdis 96 

Fraxinus sambucifolia 96 

Fraxinus quadrangulata 97 

Fraxinus platycarpa 97 

Grafting 44 

Gratling Wax 46 

Gathering Seeds 26 

Growing from Cuttings 30 

Green Ash 96 

Gleditschia 97 

Gleditschia tricanthos 98 

Gleditschia monosperma 98 

Gymnouladus Canadensis 99 



Great-leaved Magnolia 107 

Great Laurel Magnolia 108 

Great Silver Fir 161 

Ground Hemlock 181 

How to Plant a Belt 60 

Hard Maple 74 

Horse Chestnut 78 

Hickory 86 

Honey Locust 97 

Hackmatack 103 

Hercules Club 134' 

Hornbeam 135 

Hackberry 136 

Hawthorn 137 

Halesia tetraptera 140 

Hornbeam 142 

Hop Tree 142 

Hemlock Spruce 159 

Implements used in Pruuing 07 

Insects, Kavages of 70 

Iron Wood 142 

Irish Junipers 163 

Ilex opaca 175 

Ilex Cassine 176 

Ilex myrtifolia 176 

Ilex Dahoon 176 

Ilex glabra 176 

Inkberry 176 

Jnglans cinera 99 

Juglans nigra 101 

Juglans regia 102 

Juniperus 162 

Juniper 162 

Juniperus communis 162 

Juniperus Virginiana 162 

Jersey Scrub Pine 165 

Kentucky Coffee 99 

Kalmia 176 

Kalmia latifolia 177 

Kalmia angnstifolia 177 

Kalmia glauca 178 

Kalmia hirsuta 178 

Layering 36 

Larix Americana 103 

Larch 103 

Lirlodendron Tulipifera . 105 

Liquidamber Styracillua 106 

Large-toothed Aspen 113 

Live Oak 118 

Locust 121 

Linden 126 

Laurel 145 

Leafy-coned Fir 160 

Ledum latifolium 178 

Labrador Tea 178 

Loiseleuria procumbons 179 

Leiophyllum buxifolium 179 

Lapland Rose 181 



INDEX. 



187 



Page 

Mountain Maple 77 

Mixing Varieties 62 

Moclier-niit 89 

Magnolia acuminata 107 

Magnolia glauca 107 

Magnolia macrophylla 107 

Magnolia Umbrella 108 

Magnolia tripetela 108 

Magnolia Fraseri 108 

Magnolia cordata 108 

Magnolia grandiflora 108 

Mossy Cup Oak 117 

Moss Locust 123 

Morus rubra 140 

Morns alba 141 

Morns nigra 141 

Madura aurantiaca 141 

Mountain Ash 143 

Mahonia 174 

Mountain Laurel 177 

Negnndo Maple 77 

Norwaj' Maple 78 

Nyssa 110 

Nyssa multiflora 110 

Nyssa uniflora. . .-. 110 

Nettle Tree 13G 

Norway Spruce 160 

Noble Silver Fir 161 

Northern Scrub Pine 165 

Oak 114 

Osier 123 

Osage Orange 141 

Olea Americana 142 

Ostrya Virginica 142 

Old Field Pine 167 

Propagation 16 

Pruning the Roots 53 

Preserving Seeds 25 

Planting lor Shelter 58 

Priming Forest Trees 63 

Pruning Evergreens 65 

Purple Buckeye 79 

Paper Birch 81 

Pecan-nut 87 

Pig-nut 90 

Pepperidge 110 

Prunus Ill 

Plum Ill 

Platanus Ill 

Prunus serotina Ill 

Platanus occidentalis 112 

Populus 112 

Poplar 112 

Populus tremuloides 113 

Populus grandidentata 113 

Populus hctcrophylla /. 113 

Populus monililera 113 

Populus angulata 113 

Populus balsamifera 113 

Post Oak 116 

Pin Oak 120 



Page 

Pa^vpaw 133 

Pear Thorn 1:38 

Persimmon 138 

Ptelea trifoliata 142 

Pyrus coronaria 143 

Pyrus Americana 143 

Persea Carolinensis 145 

Piuus 163 

Pinus Banksiana 165 

Pinus inops 165 

Pinus pungens 165 

Pinus resinosa 165 

Pinus mitis 166 

Pinus glabra 166 

Pinus rigida 167 

Pinus tceda 168 

Piuus serotina 168 

Pinus Strobus 168 

Pitch Pine 167 

Pond Pine 168 

Pale Laurel 178 

Qnercus 114 

Quercus alba 115 

Quercus obtusiloba 116 

Quercus macrocarpa 117 

Quercus Prinus 117 

Quercus Castanea 117 

Quercus prinoides 118 

Quercus virens 118 

Quercus Phellos 118 

Qnercus imbricaria 118 

Quercus aquatica 118 

Quercus nigra 118 

Quercus tinctosia 119 

Quercus coccinca 119 

Quercus rubra ... 119 

Quercus palustris 120 

Quercitron Oak 119 

Rock Maple 74 

Red Maple 76 

Red Buckeye 79 

Red Birch 82 

Red Beech 93 

Red Ash 96 

Red Oak 119 

Robinia 121 

Robinia Pseudacacia 123 

Robinia Niscosa 123 

Robinia hispidia 12:3 

Rose acacia 123 

Red Bud 135 

tied Mulberry 140 

Rhamuus cartharticus 144 

Rhamnus lanceolate 144 

Rhamnus alnifolius 144 

Red Spruce 159 

Red Cedar 162 

Red Pine 165 

Rough Laurel 178 

Rhododendron 179 

Rhododendron maximum 180 

Rhododendron Catawbicnsis 181 



188 



THE rOKEST TKEE CULTUEIST. 



rage 

Rhododendron Laj)ponicuni 181 

Rhododendron punctatum 181 

Rose Bay 181 

Seed-Bed, How to Make 18 

Screen- for Seed-Bed 20 

Splice Grafting 45 

Staking Large Trees 55 

Sugar Maple 74 

Silver Maple 75 

Striped Maple T5 

Sycamore Mnple 78 

Sweet Black Birch 82 

Shell-Bark Hickory 89 

Small-fruited Hickory 90 

Swamp Hickory 90 

Sweet Gnm lOG 

Swamp Magnolia 107 

Sweet Bay 107 

Sonr Gum 110 

Sycamore 112 

Shaking Poplar 113 

Silver Maple 114 

Swamp Chestnut Oak 117 

Shingle Oak 118 

Scarlet Oak 119 

Spanish Oak 120 

Salix 123 

Salix alba 124 

Salix Balnionia 124 

SlippervElm 129 

Small Deciduous Trees 132 

Speckled Alder 132 

Small-tlowered Pawpaw 134 

Spindle Tree 139 

Strawlierrv Tree 139 

Silver Bell Tree 140 

Sassafras officinale 144 

Shepherdia argentea 145 

Swedish Junipers 163 

Smooth-leaved Pine 166 

SeqiToia gigantea 170 

Small-leaved Holly 176 

Sheep Laurel 177 

Sand Mvrtle 179 

Spotted Laurel 181 

Select List of Trees 183 

Transplanting 48 

Tap-roots, Trimming off. 49 

Time for Sowing Seeds 23 

Transporting Seeds 26 

Transplanting Large Trees '. . 52 

Time to Prune 66 

Time to Cut Timber 69 

Thick Shell-Bark Hickory 89 

Three-thorned acacia 98 

Tamarack 103 

Tulip Tree 105 

Tupelo 110 

Tacmahac 113 



Page 

Taxodinm , 125 

Taxodium distichum 125 

Tilla 126 

Tilla Americana 127 

Tilla heterophylla 128 

Transplanting Evergreens 154 

Trimming Evergreens 157 

Transplanting from Forests 158 

Table Mountain Pine . ^ 165 

Thnja occidentalie 170 

Taxus Canadensis 181 

TJlnms 128 

Ulmus fulva 129 

Ulmus Americana 129 

Ulmus racemosa 130 

Ulmus alata 130 

Ulmus campestris 130 

Virgilla lutea 91 

Various-leaved Poplar 113 

M'^atering 22 

Where to Obtain Seeds 27 

White Maple 75 

White Birch 81 

White-Heart Hickorj' 89 

White Beech 93 

Water Ash 96 

Water Locust 98 

Whitewood 105 

Wild Cherry Ill 

White Oak 116 

Willow Oak 118 

Water Oak 118 

Willow 123 

White Willow 124 

Weeping Willow 12-1 

White Basswood 128 

White Elm 129 

Weeping Elm 129 

Winged Elm 130 

Wahoo 130 

Water Beech : . . . . 135 

White Fringe Tree 136 

Washington Thorn 138 

Wahoo 139 

White Mulberry 141 

White Spruce IfiO 

White Cedar 161 

White Pine 168 

Weymouth Pine 168 

Yellow Buckeye 79 

Yellow Birch 82 

Yellow AVood 91 

Yellow Cucumber Tree 108 

Yellow Chestnut Oak 117 

Yellow Pine 166 

Yaupon 176 

Yew (American) 181 



I 




Woodward's Annual 

OP Archttecture, Landscape Gar- 

DESING AND EURAL ArT for 18G7. 

176 original anii practical designs 
and plans for low-priced Cottages, 
Barns, Ice Houses, &c., with nu- 
merous jjlans for laying out smal 
plots of ground. 12mo. 120 pages. 
Paper covers, 75 cts.; clotli, $1.C0. 
Post paid. 



Woodward's Country Homes, 

Eighth. Edition, revised and enl.nrged. 
A new and original woik with 150 
designs and plans for Coun'ry 
Houses of modern to co t, with a 
full illustrated description of tho 
manner of constructing " Balloon 
Frames." 12mo. 192 pages. Cloth, 
extra.— post paid $1.50 

Manual of the House ; 

Or how to hiiild Country Houses 
r.nd Outbuildings, w.th 126 designs 
and plans, by D. H. Jacques. 
12mo. 176 pages. Cloth, extra- 
post paid $1.50 

Also just published, 

Fuller's Forest Tree Culturist. 

A new work on the propagation, 
cultivation and management of 
Foreiit Trees, by Andrew S. Puller, 
author of the Grape Culturist. 
FuUy illustrated, post paid, $1.50. 



Grapes and Wine. 



A new and practical work on the 
Cultivation cf the Native Grape 
and Manufacture of American 
Wine ; by Geo. Husmann, ol 
Missouri. PuUy illustrated. Cloth, 
extra — post paid , $1.50 



GEO. E. & F. W. WOODWARD, Pnblishcrs, 37 Park Row, IV. Y. 



A-gricultural, Horticultural and Arcliitectural 

BOOKB, 

For Sale at !Publisliers' Prices at th.e Office of tlve 
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Grape Culture. 

Culture of the Grape, by "W. C. Strong, new $3 00 

Chorlton on Grape Culture under Glass 75 

Fuller's Grape Cultur.st , 1 5 J 

Grapes and Wine, by Geo. Ilusmann, 7iew 1 CO 

Hara-thy Grape Culture, Wine and W ne Jlaking o 00 

My Vineyard at Lake View, 1 25 

Fruit Culture. 

Barry's rruit Garden 1 7J 

Bridgeman's Fruit Cultivators' Manual 75 

Cole's Ameiicari Fruit Book 75 

Downing's Fruits and Fruit Trees of America 3 03 

Eastwoo'l on Cranberry 7o 

Elliot's AVestcrn Fruit Grower's Guide 1 53 

Field's Pear Culture 1 25 

Fuller on Strawberry 20 

Hovey's Fruits of America, colored plates, 2 vols 3j 00 

Pardee on Strawberry 7-5 

Rivers' Miniature Fruit Garden 1 00 

Flowers. 

Break's New Book of Flowers 1 75 

Bridgeman's Florists' Guide 75 

Buist's Flower Garden Directory 1 50 

Book of Roses, F. Parkman, 3 00 

Ladies' Flower Garden Companion, e :itod by Uowni g 2 (0 

Parlor Gardener 1 00 

Rand's Flowers for Parlor and Garden 3 GO 

Rand's Garden Flowers 3 00 

Skeleton Leaves and Phantom Boquers 2 00 

Wax Flowers, and how to make them 2 CO 

Trees, <fcc. 

Browne's Trees of America CO 

Warder's Hedges and Evergreens 1 50 

Sural Arcliitecturc. 

Allen's Rural Architecture 1 50 

Cleveland's Villas and Cottages 4 00 

Cummings' Designs for Street Fronts, Subuiban llou o.s and Cotta-^i^s, vrilh 

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Downing's Cottage Architecture 3 00 

Bownina's Country House? 8 CO 

Uatfleld's Americiin House Carpenter 3 50 

Leuchar's How to Build r.nd Ventilate Hot-houses 1 50 

Maniiiil of the House, 126 designs and Plans c: otli 1 pO 

Silloway's Modern Carpentry 2 00 

Sloan's Homestead A ichitecture, 200 Engravings 4 00 

Sloan's Ornamental Houses, 26 Colored Engravings 3 00 

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Woodward's Country Homes 1 50 

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Ko-ii's Landscape Gardening 2 OJ 

ICirmp's " " 2 0) 

Itui-al Essays by Downing 3 00 

Smith's Landicapo Gardening 1 CO 

Gardesaing, Horticultiarc, AgriculJxiro, <i;c. 

Allen's A-rerican Farm. Book 1 51 

Allen's Domestic Animals 1 0) 

Ameiic:in Ko-e Culturist 3) 

American Bird Fancier 3(1 

Art of Saw-Filing 75 

Eement's Kabbit Fancier 3 i 

Benient's American Poulterer's Companion 2 ) 

Boiu'singault's Rural Economy 1 60 

Boston Machinist, (W. Fitzgerald)... 75 

Brandt's Age of Hoi'sc?, (English or German) 63 

Bridgeman's Kitchen Gardeners' Instructor 75 

B.idgoman's Young Gardenci s' Assistant 2 00 

Brown's Field Book of Manures 1 50 

Buist's Family Kitchen Gardener 1 00 

Burr's Field and Garden Vegetables of America 5 00 

Burr's G^-.rdin Vogct ibles 2 53 

Canary Bird.-*, Manual f n- Birdkeepers 50 

C.irpenters' and Jcine s' IL!Mdboo.k 75 

Cobbett's Ama ic n Gardener 75 

Cole's Veteriu''rian 75 

Coleman"s Agriru.turc 4 00 

Darlington's American AVoeds and Useful Plants 1 75 

Dana's Muck Manual 1 5 ) 

Dana's Essays on Manures 00 

Dadd's Anatomv and Physiology of the Horse PI lin. 3 50 

Dadd's Horse Doctor 1 fiO 

Dadd'? Catt e Doctor 150 

Davies Preparation and Mounting of Micros. epic Objects 1 50 

Farmers' Every Day Book, octivo, C50 [lagcs 3 00 

Fiint on Grasses and Forage Plants 2 50 

Flint on Milch Cows 2 50 

Flora's Interpreter and Fortuna Flora, (Mrs. Hale) 1 50 

French's Farna Drainage 1 5J 

Garlielijs Treatise on Propagat.on of Fi^h 1 25 

Gray's M;inual of Botany 4 50 

Guenon's Treatise on Milch Cows 75 

Harris'— Insects injuricaj to Vegetation i',a u 1' atcs 4 00 

" " " " Colored " 5 00 

Harris' Rural Annual for 18G6 25 

Herbert's ] lints to Horsekecpers 1 75 

Hooper's Dog and Guix 30 

llo-w to Get a Fai-ra, and Where to Find it 1 75 

How to AVrite, Talk, Bi;hare and do Business 2 25 

IkMiirvcl's F.irm of Edgewood 2 00 

Insect Enemies of Fruit Trees, (Trimble) 8 03 

•lennings on Cattle 2 i 

Jennings ou Swine and Poultry 2 00 

-'''■snnings on the Horse and his Diseases 2 00 

'^ningj' Horse Training Made Easy, new 1 25 

John-ton's Elements of Agricultural Chemistry 1 25 

Johnston's Agriculiural (Chemistry ." 1 75 

Klippart'« Farm Drainage 1 50 

Klippart'a "Wheat Plant 1 50 

Langstn th on th '■ Honey Bee 2 00 

Liebig's Xatiiral Laws of Husbandry 1 50 

Liobig's Familiar Letters cu Chen.i-t. y tO 



Agricultibraly Ilorticullural and Architectural Books. 



Ijinsley's Morgan Horses. $1 50 

Manual of Agriculture, Emerson & Flint 1 50 

of Flax C ulture 50 

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of the F;irin uloth. 1 00 

of the Garden " 1 00 

of Bomestic Animals " 1 00 

Mayhew's illustrated Horse Doctor 3 50 

Mayhew's " Horse Management 3 50 

Mayhew's Practical Book-Keeidng for Farmers 90 

Blanksfor do do 120 

McMahon's American Gardener 3 00 

Miles oil Horses Foot 30 

Miss Hall, Cookery and Domestic Fconomy 1 50 

Miss Beeciior's Domestic Keoeipt Cook 1 50 

Mis? Beecher's Domestic Economy 1 50 

Morrell'3 American Shepherd 1 50 

Munn's Practical Land Drainer 75 

New Clock and Watch Maker's Manual 2 00 

Noi ton's Scientific Agriculture 75 

Onion Culture 25 

Orchard House Culture, by C. M. Hovoy 1 25 

Our Fiirm of Four Acres, paper, 3D ceu s; bound GO 

Our Farm of Two Acres 20 

Quinby's .Mystery of Bce-kce,.iiig 1 50 

Quincy Soiling o'f Cattle 1 25 

Portfolio Paper File, (6'o2(«(i-(/ Gentleman) '. §1 and 1 50 

Pedder's Liiiid Measurer, for Farmers 60 

Phenomena of Plant Life, (Goo. H. Grindon) 1 00 

Randall's Fine Wool Sheep Husbandry 1 00 

Randall's Sheep Husbandry 1 50 

Ready Reckoner 50 

Richardson, On Dogs 30 

Rivers' Orchard House , 50 

Sohenck's Gardeners' Text-B jok 75 

Shepherds' Own Book 2 25 

Skillful Housewife 75 

Stewart's Si;ibIe-Book 1 50 

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Sparrowgrass Papers 2 OJ 

Ten Acres Enough 1 5) 

Tenny's Nat iral History and Zooiogy 3 00 

Thompson's Food of Animals 1 J 

TobaccT Culture 25 

Todd's Young Faimer's M .nual 1 50 

The Gi-eat West 1 00 

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of the Annu il Register, printe 1 on larger and finer pape •, per vol. ... 150 

Turner's Cnton Planter's Manual 1 Sq 

Waring's Elements of Agriculture 1 00 

Watson's Ameii'-an Homo Garden 2 00 

Wet Days at Edgewood, by Ik Marvel 2 00 

Wetherell on the Manufacture of Vinegar 1 5'^ 

Youatt on the Horse 150 

Youattonthe Dog 2 00 

Youatt ai;d Martin, On Cattle 1 50 

" " OntheHog 100 

Youatt, On Sheep ^ 1 03 

Youmans' Househo'd Science 2 25 

Youmans' New Chemistry 2 00 

Address, GEO. E. &, F. W. WOODTVARD, 

PvBLisiiEns, 37 Park Row, New Yokk. 



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